Couldn’t stay NA....
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Couldn’t stay NA....
After demodding her I sold my boosted, built and stroked LS3 swapped ‘97 Nassau Blue C5. What a fun car that was. Took those funds plus a few extra dollars and bought one of the cleanest 5k mile ‘11 Jetstream Blue Grand Sports in the country. Kept her stock for roughly ten minutes. LOL. Threw on a cold air intake and a tune. Did a few other non HP mods and thought I would be good. Have had it just over a year now and thought I would not “really” miss the 700+ wheel hp.
Well...... I did.
”Invested” in a blacked out Ti kit from A&A. How can you not go back to the guy that you bought two other kits for your previous car? Third times the charm. Got a great deal and it’s being installed in the next couple weeks. Not looking for big power. Hoping for 550-575whp and call it a day.
I’m curious about a couple things and am hoping my FI brothers & sisters can help me out.
1. ZR1 MAF - Is this the way to go? Why and or why not?
2. Don’t want the two gauge pillar this time around. Thinking just a single boost gauge or maybe one that is multi function. Any suggestions on which pod to use and then which gauge is best? Had autometer last time and may just get another sport comp boost gauge with the SLP pod and call it a day but would love feedback.
3. Oil Cooler - Eliminate it or run it through the radiator. I also “invested” in a new Griffin radiator with the cooler built in. Some say not even worry about it. Seems I should at least ask. What are you crazy kids doing?
Some how I feel like I am more excited putting a blower on this car than I was when I first supercharged my old C5. Really looking forward to hearing that blow off valve again!!
Cheers!!
Well...... I did.
”Invested” in a blacked out Ti kit from A&A. How can you not go back to the guy that you bought two other kits for your previous car? Third times the charm. Got a great deal and it’s being installed in the next couple weeks. Not looking for big power. Hoping for 550-575whp and call it a day.
I’m curious about a couple things and am hoping my FI brothers & sisters can help me out.
1. ZR1 MAF - Is this the way to go? Why and or why not?
2. Don’t want the two gauge pillar this time around. Thinking just a single boost gauge or maybe one that is multi function. Any suggestions on which pod to use and then which gauge is best? Had autometer last time and may just get another sport comp boost gauge with the SLP pod and call it a day but would love feedback.
3. Oil Cooler - Eliminate it or run it through the radiator. I also “invested” in a new Griffin radiator with the cooler built in. Some say not even worry about it. Seems I should at least ask. What are you crazy kids doing?
Some how I feel like I am more excited putting a blower on this car than I was when I first supercharged my old C5. Really looking forward to hearing that blow off valve again!!
Cheers!!
#2
Racer
Dashlogic is an option to read boost through heads up display. I didn't want a gauge pod so that's what i did with mine. Can't think of a reason not to use the cooler if you already have it.
#3
aeroforce interceptor, I got mine on ebay for $135.
Will read boost, ignition, ect. Can also hook up fuel pressure sensor or any other 5v sensor and display two reading at the same time.
I'd nix the maf, go SD tune. A lot of people use ls3 mafs with no issue though.
Some people put a cheap $60 oil cooler in the front left or right of the bumper, I have a dewitts which has trans, oil and radiator functions.
Will read boost, ignition, ect. Can also hook up fuel pressure sensor or any other 5v sensor and display two reading at the same time.
I'd nix the maf, go SD tune. A lot of people use ls3 mafs with no issue though.
Some people put a cheap $60 oil cooler in the front left or right of the bumper, I have a dewitts which has trans, oil and radiator functions.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Where did you mount the gauge in the car?
I think I’m gonna stay with the MAF. Chicago weather is so crazy.
I will prob have them just remove the OEM oil cooler and use the one inside the radiator
like a place suggested.
I guess the reason is due to the factory mounting places it in front of the intercooler.
I think I’m gonna stay with the MAF. Chicago weather is so crazy.
I will prob have them just remove the OEM oil cooler and use the one inside the radiator
like a place suggested.
I guess the reason is due to the factory mounting places it in front of the intercooler.