How to tell if my BAP is actually working under boost?
#1
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How to tell if my BAP is actually working under boost?
Got a question ...
As I have posted before, I have installed a Heartbeat SC and a BAP. As far as the BAP is concerned, it is now installed in the left / rear wheel well area, and the inner plastic wheel well liner and tire are now back on the car.
Since I now don't have access to the BAP anymore ... How can you tell if it will work when the boost pressure increases above 3 PSI ?
I was thinking that I could idle the car and put a metal pin between the 2 connectors on the Hobbs pressure switch (thus closing the circuit), and then have someone listen back by the left / rear wheel and see if the pump makes a louder noise when the Hobbs switch pins are closed .... but I don't know if you can actually hear these fuel pumps when they are running.
Any better way ? ?
As I have posted before, I have installed a Heartbeat SC and a BAP. As far as the BAP is concerned, it is now installed in the left / rear wheel well area, and the inner plastic wheel well liner and tire are now back on the car.
Since I now don't have access to the BAP anymore ... How can you tell if it will work when the boost pressure increases above 3 PSI ?
I was thinking that I could idle the car and put a metal pin between the 2 connectors on the Hobbs pressure switch (thus closing the circuit), and then have someone listen back by the left / rear wheel and see if the pump makes a louder noise when the Hobbs switch pins are closed .... but I don't know if you can actually hear these fuel pumps when they are running.
Any better way ? ?
#2
You have a wideband? If you don't go lean under boost its working.
#3
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I don't have a wideband, but when I have the car dyno tuned very soon using the HP Tuners software, will the guy dyno tuning it be able to read the fuel pump voltage? ... (Should increase from about 13v to 17.5v when above 3 PSI boost)
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I understand that I trigger the BAP by just touching the 2 wires that attach to the Hobbs switch (creates a closed circuit) ... But where do it then check the pump voltage to see if it rises?
I have re-installed the left / rear wheel well plastic liner and the tire ... so I have no access to get back into where the BAP is mounted.
Ron,
I have re-installed the left / rear wheel well plastic liner and the tire ... so I have no access to get back into where the BAP is mounted.
Ron,
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St. Jude Donor '15
I've never even heard of anyone checking this unless there are issues. If fuel pressure is holding and it isn't going lean, then it's working
#7
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Well ... ok
I just thought it might be good to see if in fact the voltage to the OEM fuel pump does increase when the Hobbs switch closes.
For what the Kenne Bell BAP cost ... I would just like to know if it's really working as advertised.
.
I just thought it might be good to see if in fact the voltage to the OEM fuel pump does increase when the Hobbs switch closes.
For what the Kenne Bell BAP cost ... I would just like to know if it's really working as advertised.
.
Last edited by Turbo6TA; 10-30-2018 at 03:16 PM.
#8
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Just a thought ...
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#10
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I was thinking that maybe the increased voltage could be measured at the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment fuse box ... but maybe there is no power going though there now that the BAP has been wired into the system ?
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St. Jude Donor '15
You'd need to measure voltage after the BAP so would need to pull the wheel liner, etc. back off to get at it
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#13
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A little off topic, but along those lines, you will certainly know when it isn't.....Mine stopped working on a freeway in Ft.Worth, in the high speed lane doing around 75. It shuts down the fuel system, so no go. I had to bypass the BAP entirely to get it back up and running after having the car transported back to where it could be worked on. BTW- the fuse that you install in the engine compartment makes a fine kill switch if you are in a sketchy area.....
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#15
Speaking of sketchy, here’s how I tested mine, Hobbs switch and all...first I simply had someone switch the key on and, standing outside of the car in the garage, I listened to how loud the fuel pump was. Then, using a small manual air pump (think bicycle pump) and a piece of hose connected to the Hobbs switch, I put a little pressure - like ~10 psi - into the Hobbs switch (mine is a 4 psi switch) and then had someone cycle the key on again and listened to the pump again. With the BAP activated, the pump runs noticeable louder when it cycles. That was the methodology and the extent of my testing of my BAP. Rough and crude, I know. But that’s how we roll down here...
#16
A little off topic, but along those lines, you will certainly know when it isn't.....Mine stopped working on a freeway in Ft.Worth, in the high speed lane doing around 75. It shuts down the fuel system, so no go. I had to bypass the BAP entirely to get it back up and running after having the car transported back to where it could be worked on. BTW- the fuse that you install in the engine compartment makes a fine kill switch if you are in a sketchy area.....
#17
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I don't know about earlier model C6's, but on my 2011 GS, in order to get the car in the 'run' mode without actually starting the car, you need to push the bottom of the start button for more than 5 seconds (this keeps it from going into just the 'accessory' mode).
I did put it into the 'run' mode, but could not hear the fuel pump running. I am thinking that prior to the car actually starting, the fuel pump won't run at all if the fuel rail is already pressurized.
I did put it into the 'run' mode, but could not hear the fuel pump running. I am thinking that prior to the car actually starting, the fuel pump won't run at all if the fuel rail is already pressurized.
#18
Safety Car
When you push the start button to run mode, the ECM will prime the fuel pump for 2 sec.
I tested my BAP by jumping the wires at the hobb switch and used a volt meter to measure voltage at the fuel pump, 17.5 volts when the hobb switch is activated. If voltage is at 17.5 volts, then BAP has done its job. If the fuel pump does not increase fuel pressure, you have a bad fuel pump and a good chance of a lean condition. This happened to me on the dyno.
I tested my BAP by jumping the wires at the hobb switch and used a volt meter to measure voltage at the fuel pump, 17.5 volts when the hobb switch is activated. If voltage is at 17.5 volts, then BAP has done its job. If the fuel pump does not increase fuel pressure, you have a bad fuel pump and a good chance of a lean condition. This happened to me on the dyno.
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Thanks Mike .... I figured the pump would only run for a second or two.
I want to measure voltage at the pump, but I really didn't want to remove the left rear wheel and the plastic inner fender liner again to gain access to the fuel pump wiring.
I was hoping that the fuel pump voltage could be measured somewhere else where I don't have to remove a bunch of stuff in order to get to it.
I want to measure voltage at the pump, but I really didn't want to remove the left rear wheel and the plastic inner fender liner again to gain access to the fuel pump wiring.
I was hoping that the fuel pump voltage could be measured somewhere else where I don't have to remove a bunch of stuff in order to get to it.
#20
Safety Car
Unfortunately, you have to go to where the BAP is installed. In most cases, the rear left wheel well near the fuel pump. I had a volt meter hooked up to my BAP hot, jumped the hobbs switch and briefly started up the car to read the voltage at 17.5v.
If the BAP is not getting any voltage or the BAP hot wire is hooked up incorrectly, the fuel pump will not work and car will not start.
If the BAP is not getting any voltage or the BAP hot wire is hooked up incorrectly, the fuel pump will not work and car will not start.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; 10-31-2018 at 04:24 AM.
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