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Using an RPM TR6060 with ZR1 gearset, nothing fancy. I had to downgrade the rearend from ZR1 to Base model in order to get the gear ratio i needed as we got faster.
I have been following your build, hoping the billet trans works out!
I used have same gear ratios, but it fifth exploded on dyno only at 1300hp level.
Well I’m so hopeful get all ready just booked ferry ticket from Helsinki to Travemunde Germany May 31th, we’ll make 2000 miles test and tune road trip cross Europe to Italy and back with MoTec master. Wanna test example TC, ESP and ABS in real conditions and mostly no speedlimits on German highways.
A lot of other big power guys would tend to have their overall gearing so they can achieve top speeds in 4th as this is ultimately the strongest way to power through the box
Obviously for very high speeds, this involves huge compromises at lower speeds for launch, driving off etc though.
RecMech, have you thought about something like a liberty clutchless trans? Not sure if anyone has done a mid mounted one? Just thinking if they are a similar length to a th400 then the RPM 9 inch rear end might work with it...
Last edited by chuntington101; 12-28-2018 at 09:16 AM.
I used have same gear ratios, but it fifth exploded on dyno only at 1300hp level.
Well I’m so hopeful get all ready just booked ferry ticket from Helsinki to Travemunde Germany May 31th, we’ll make 2000 miles test and tune road trip cross Europe to Italy and back with MoTec master. Wanna test example TC, ESP and ABS in real conditions and mostly no speedlimits on German highways.
RecMech, have you thought about something like a liberty clutchless trans? Not sure if anyone has done a mid mounted one? Just thinking if they are a similar length to a th400 then the RPM 9 inch rear end might work with it...
I have considered a couple options (Liberty included).. For now i am trying to keep the car as close to its oem roots as possible (and save $$).. I am sure there will be a breaking point, but it will be an adventure finding it!
I have considered a couple options (Liberty included).. For now i am trying to keep the car as close to its oem roots as possible (and save $$).. I am sure there will be a breaking point, but it will be an adventure finding it!
totally understand! Something really cool about what the likeable for you and Tuomas are doing with these cars yet keeping them looking like stock (ish)!
Our buddy was convinced to swap out his F2R procharger on his LT1 383 that he also sprayed a 200hp shot of nitrous on top of..... over to a 91mm turbo setup. The car is sooo much faster now there is no comparison.
No more belt slip and much easier to change boost settings.... plus you can really use the boost by gear/time to pour in the power! I can't wait to see how your car does in 2019!
Our buddy was convinced to swap out his F2R procharger on his LT1 383 that he also sprayed a 200hp shot of nitrous on top of..... over to a 91mm turbo setup. The car is sooo much faster now there is no comparison.
No more belt slip and much easier to change boost settings.... plus you can really use the boost by gear/time to pour in the power! I can't wait to see how your car does in 2019!
That is exactly what I am hoping for here!
Just got the twin wastegates and I am re-using the twin 50mm BOV's (new springs), which should work great with the ProEFI. I think boost by gear is going to make the most sense, along with C02 control.
Update from Golen Engine Service.. Block and heads are cut for top fuel o-rings. Almost all the parts onsite except for the new cam.
Some assembly going on, hoping to have it done in a couple weeks. We ended up with custom Wiseco's, re-used my Callies I beams with new bolts, new Callies billet crank.
Staying 10:1, a little looser on the ring gap as I am keeping the spray available, coated bearings, new oil pump, new timing set, new ATI balancer.
I will be heading down to see it on the dyno N/A once they have it broken in.
One of the areas I am holding off is the fuel.. As a stop gap, I had the ID2000's cleaned and flow tested and swapped the Fore system to (3) TI Auto 285's (Hellcats). I was only at 69% duty cycle before, so this should be enough to get by for a while.
The Fore stuff is top notch as usual, but I did lose a little blood fitting the triple/wide inside the tank.
A bunch of small stuff has also gotten done.. CO2 bottle mounted, door net re-worked so it opens easier, nitrous ball valve installed within my reach, torque tube bearings replaced (input shaft had some runout so i swapped it too). I dont like the fact that the inner pilot bearing race (new) spins on the new shaft? Seems like it would wear the shaft quickly if not addressed.
Battery box is complete and battery wired in. I am going to modify (again) the nitrous mount and paint it.
I am also gathering parts so I can start fabricating the turbo piping as soon as the longblock is back.
Update from Golen Engine Service.. Block and heads are cut for top fuel o-rings. Almost all the parts onsite except for the new cam.
Some assembly going on, hoping to have it done in a couple weeks. We ended up with custom Wiseco's, re-used my Callies I beams with new bolts, new Callies billet crank.
Staying 10:1, a little looser on the ring gap as I am keeping the spray available, coated bearings, new oil pump, new timing set, new ATI balancer.
I will be heading down to see it on the dyno N/A once they have it broken in.
Holy Moly, those pistons are beautiful! Ceramic coated? Why not coating on the entire top?
12-27-2018, 02:40 AM
