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I sold my ID1000s and bought a set of the Bosch 210 injectors.
Still having trouble deciding which way to go for the fuel system.
The guy that bought the hot parts off me, gave me a set of F Body manifolds that have been cleaned up and had V Bands welded on them. I think these will work nicely. Now I just need to get the car over to the guy that's going to fab up the merge pipe.
Going to pick up the motor this week to take over to the shop where my car is currently sitting. I have to install the clutch and balancer and I can put the motor back into the car.
Still need an intake, stock TB, fuel system, fittings, and who knows what else. Gonna keep pushing along, slowly.
Nice! Are you going to retain AC? I know the CX kit deletes it.
Nope, that's gone! If I drive the car to work, it's really early and I get out late. So it's never really hot. On my day's off I'll drive it around but I don't care about sweating. It's basically a Mexico car and some here and there driving.
Picked up the motor on Wednesday. Started putting my accessories on it. Mantic twin disc is installed, powerbond 25% UD balancer, going to stick a 160 degree thermostat in it.
Just need to pin the crank and it’s ready to drop in.
Also installed the radiator and the intercooler.
Found out those F body manifolds won’t work. The passenger side exits right onto the motor mount bracket. These are 5th Gen LSA manifolds. They exit straight down. These should work out perfect.
I think hooker makes some “reasonably priced” turbo manifolds for LS motors.
I asked around about those. Not a lot of info out there for this chassis, surprisingly. Also, not a lot of stuff that will fit unless it's proprietary. The Hooker manifolds hit the frame rails on the passenger side, from what I was told.
Nope, that's gone! If I drive the car to work, it's really early and I get out late. So it's never really hot. On my day's off I'll drive it around but I don't care about sweating. It's basically a Mexico car and some here and there driving.
Dang! Do it to it man. Texas gets hot and so does the cabin of these cars a little. I doubt I could bring myself to get rid of my AC.
LSA manifolds are the only ones that work? You could not use stock 5.3 manifolds?
I asked around about those. Not a lot of info out there for this chassis, surprisingly. Also, not a lot of stuff that will fit unless it's proprietary. The Hooker manifolds hit the frame rails on the passenger side, from what I was told.
They look like they hug the block pretty good, but yeah...I honestly couldn’t tell you how they fit in our engine bay.
Good luck and keep us posted! Where are you ordering material from. If the manifolds exit straight down, where are you planning to mount the turbo?
My engine builder uses Performance Tube Bending, so likely from there. He also recommended running double slip joints instead of a mesh flex coupler. Going to order the T4 flange and waste gate tubes from Monkey Fab.
The CX racing cold side is setup to have the turbo mounted right in front of the water pump. So, from the looks of it, I'll need (2) 90 degree bends off the manifolds; kind of angled inwards towards the center of the motor. Then (2) 45 degree bends up into the collector.
I asked around about those. Not a lot of info out there for this chassis, surprisingly. Also, not a lot of stuff that will fit unless it's proprietary. The Hooker manifolds hit the frame rails on the passenger side, from what I was told.
Originally Posted by MTPZ06
They look like they hug the block pretty good, but yeah...I honestly couldn’t tell you how they fit in our engine bay.
Getting a better look at those on a larger screen...it does look like clearance could be an issue.
Getting a better look at those on a larger screen...it does look like clearance could be an issue.
Those do look like they would be all up in the frame rail. Did you have to convert to wet-sump John or you just did it anyway with the 5.3 swap? With my heads coming off this week prepping for boost is tempting.
02-08-2019, 02:51 AM
