Turbo6TA

I have a 2011 GS with the A6 transmission (wet sump engine).

I am thinking about installing a Mighty Mouse catch can like what I have seen in the photos that have been posted by 'CI GS' (Sammy)

Below is a photo of Sammy's catch can install. I am concerned with the hose marked with the red arrow in Sammy's catch can photo below ...




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Here is a photo of my Hearbeat install on my GS ... That hose coming from Sammy's catch can has to attach in one of the two fittings on the SC indicated by the red arrows in my photo below:

I guess I would need to remove this u-shaped tube that interconnects these two fittings and then attach the hose coming from the catch can to either one of the two fittings ... but which one? ... The fitting closest to the SC drive pulley, or the fitting behind it?

Once this was done, I guess the other fitting on the SC would need to be capped since it would then just be an open hole.




Sammy .... are you out there

CI GS

Yep, just cap the nipple on the valley cover and use the vacuum source above it on the blower snout for vacuum source. With a -12AN breather hose off the valve cover, I don’t think I need to worry about crankcase pressure anymore.
No need to worry about the vacuum hose, it’s over an inch away from the belt no matter what position the tensioner is in.
This was the only place I could find to mount my catch can, and it took me a while to figure out how to mount it. I made my own bracket by cutting and bending some 1/8” aluminum and used some 1/4” nutserts (love those things) so that I could screw out on to the radiator shroud. It’s quite sturdy and it takes me like 2 minutes to move it out of the way to get at the belt etc. (which I’ve only done like 100 times in the last few months).

Turbo6TA

Thanks Sammy ....

Looking at the hose routing diagram on the Mighty Mouse website, they show a rubber hose going between the large flexable / ribbed air intake hose (just in front of the throttle body) over to the metal tube coming out of the top of the passenger side valve cover (just above the oil fill cap) ......

I thought this hose entering just in front of the throttle body is what these catch cans are suppose to eliminate, so as not to allow oil fumes into the throttle body and then the intake manifold ?

CI GS

You can do that, but obviously the 3/8” nipple on the valve cover won’t flow as much as a -12AN (3/4”) fitting on the oil filler, so it won’t be able to relieve positive crankcase pressure at WOT as good. Remember that there’s no vacuum at WOT pulling the blow by out of the crankcase, and there’s going to be more blowby at WOT than at idle, when the vacuum is pulling blowby out of the engine.

Turbo6TA

GI GS ....

And as usual, I really appreciate your help ... Thanks for the info

Ron,

ls1wolf

****. Now I gotta order one of theses.

Turbo6TA

I am posting the same photo below that I posted before.

That u-shaped hose is your PCV hose ... The hose connects the intake manifold barb (in our case, the supercharger base barb) to the crankcase barb on the engine valley cover.

This hose does not have a one-way check valve in it (ie: PCV valve)

That works very good as a PCV system on a normally aspirated engine ... but we don't have a NA engine!

Because this so-called PCV hose don't have a check valve in it, when we are in boost, that boost pressure goes straight into the crankcase.

And that's one of the reasons I am going to purchase the MightyMouse "Gen5 PCV Can" ....
Link: . . https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can

This particular "Gen5 PCV Can" has a one-way check valve on it's outlet, so if we ****-can that u-shaped PVC tube and then attach a hose from the supercharger barb directly to the outlet (with built-in check valve) of the catch can, and then another hose from the inlet of the catch can down to the crankcase barb ... then we will not be getting any pressurized air from the supercharger during boost down into the engine's crankcase.

However, at all other times we are normally driving the car (not in boost), we will have vacuum at the crankcase barb that gives us the crankcase gas evacuation that we need from a normal PVC system + less oil vapors into the engine combustion chambers due to the job that the catch can does.







I have modified the diagram of how I will route the hoses in my PCV / Catch Can system:



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Unreal

Except that barb is pre-rotor, where it only sees vacuum. There is no boost there.

Turbo6TA

Well, no boost at that barb .... That throws my theory out the window !

Your sure of that ...

Unreal

100%. That is barb is on the blower inlet. On a PD blower you don't have boost until after the rotors.

If it wasn't, and you were boosting your crank case, you would have blown out every seal on the motor by now.

Turbo6TA

Thanks so much for that great info ... I guess I don't need a one-way check valve on the catch can

I gotta ask .... The lid on these Heartbeat superchargers is above the rotors ... Is there any boost pressure pushing up against the lid at WOT ?

Ron,

Unreal

Gotta check the flow. I think it sucks in through the bottom, then blows up through the intercoolers. So I believe yes, but not sure.

Turbo6TA

I just asked that question because of the total pain-in-the-**** job of installing the rear two lid bolts on this supercharger.

As of now, neither of those two bolts are installed on my lid ... but so far, I have not had a problem with the lid lifting.

Of course, my GS / A6 is bone stock except for the SC, a BAP and a set of Pfadt 1 3/4" headers along with a dyno tune done by Redline Motorsports here in Florida ... Boost is only 7.5 PSI max using a 93mm drive pulley.

Unreal

99% sure the lid is pressurized. I would try to install those rear screws, as it doesn't take much to have a leak.

CI GS

You are spot on that the vacuum nipple/barb is in front of the rotors and cannot possibly see boost at either idle or WOT.
You are also right that the Heartbeat is an upwards discharge blower and there is pressure under the lid. (As per cutaway below).We’ve been telling him to put those bolts in from months ago. But, in all fairness, having had the “pleasure” of messing with those two little bastards myself, on three different occasions, I can tell you that you need to be part contortionist and exert a great deal of perseverance with a wide variety of tools (and be willing to relieve yourself of stress via a few thousand expletives) to get those sumbitches in and tightened. And there is no friggin way to torque them or the rear ones under the cowl down either, so that part of the Magnuson install manual is BS.



The vacuum nipple is visible in the lower left of this picture

Unreal

I think posting nipple pictures can get you banned.

If it was me, I would just cut the cowl. It isn't like you can see once the cover goes on. Makes working on back of motor WORLDs easier. I have no idea why the made the fiberglass part come out so far when there is no need.

Turbo6TA

I Plead Guilty as Charged Counselor .....

I have tried everything, but just gave up !

The only other option for me would be to drop the whole front cradle a little in order to get more room ... but I am just too lazy to do that at this point in time.

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Unreal

And order a MM can either way. They are great.

CI GS

If the cowl wasn’t there, there wouldn’t be need to put the two rearmost bolts underneath the blower lid flange, and all 4 of the rear bolts could easily be accessed by a socket from above, so they could be torqued properly like the rest (picture below)

mykream

If you don't want to cut out the area of the cowl, then measure it up and drill holes where those bolts are. Make the hole large enough to get whatever socket in there you need. Then find a plastic plug or grommet seal to cover the holes when you don't need to get to them,