ysb02

I’d look hard at the d1x if you you’re eyeing the t-trim. I almost went that route before going with a ysi.

southspeed

Yes, I forgot to quote. I dyno on a dynomite as well. My automatic with a 3600 converter unlocked and cam and headers ls2 made 680 on 93 and fully meth dependant. That's with a novi 1500 stock balancer and a 3.25 with no restrictor. From searching around on youtube that seems pretty normal. I should be at the track in the next couple of weeks to get a mph. That should tell me more than the dyno.

For reference the car that was tuned right before me was an ls3 car same setup but a ti. He made 725 on 93 and meth and 830 or so on e85 and meth. That car went 9.1X but I can't remember the mph.

Al_Scrap

What kind of PSI this combo give ?

Running next summer a Darton sleeve 427 /forged 9.8 to 1 compression motor and I wondering the combo pulley/psi I have to run to achieve 800whp? (V3 Ttrim)

Patriot Six

I’m making 13psi on my forged LS7 (10:1 compression). Car makes 837whp on 93 and meth. Should be making high 800s on flex fuel in about a week.

Al_Scrap

Thanks for the fast reply.

dddfx

How is it that in the last several videos RPM has put out, they are using a ti-trim Z06 and getting 800whp with 5-6lbs of boost?
Are they milling and porting the head? Do those cars have to worry about the pistons at that HP even though the boost is so low?

sstonebreaker

Boost isn't a measure of air mass, at least not directly. It's a measure of resistance to flow. They've probably optimized the intake, heads and cam for boost. Another thing to factor in is with less boost at a given mass of airflow, it takes less horsepower to stuff the air into the engine, so they can make more rwhp on less total air mass.

Patriot Six

Yes, those are cars with their heads and cam package, which flows better than smaller cams with stock heads. RPM also just finished my Z06 with a Ti trim, which made 874/795 on e85, but at 13psi. The difference is I have stock heads and a mild blower cam, thus more restriction (boost). 800+rwhp should definitely have a forged piston. It's the cylinder pressure regardless of boost that can damage the motor.

PSSSSSHC6

Here are my V3 TI details. I purchased a 08 LS3 last year from a person who had a 21st century muscle combo on it. Cam,V3 TI {3.47,10%},ecs stage 1 fuel system,1000cc fic,twin disc,93/meth and full exhaust. The made 795/688 on their dynojet dyno. Went 175 in the 1/2 mile and ran a 10.73@143.8 on the stock staggered 18/19's with NT05R's out back. I purchased the car and noted a small mis that was not showing up on hptuners which I later found out was because they had it turned off in the tune. After replacing plugs, wires, injectors, intake manifold gaskets, maf card and 02 sensors I finally through in the towel when it popped the front seal. Because the person had a catch setup on the car for 500hp. I took the car to a local shop that works on a ton of corvettes and ls based rides. They tune some of the quickest vettes around here. The mis problem was found. The cam sensor bolt was gone and the sensor had just be moving around. So I upgraded the catch can setup and they replaced the crank seal, repined the crank and replaced the cam sensor with bolt. I told them I wanted the tuned checked and the car dynoed. The tuner stuck it on his dyno which is a loaded dynapac. based on people around here who have dynoed other places on dynojets its right with them. Tuner pulled it to 5800rpm where it made 815whp, he said they had 14 degrees in it and to be safe he pulled it down to 12 . He pulled it 6000rpm where it made 838whp. He went to pull it higher but right after 6k the ecs stage 1 fuel pump said no more. He lifted at 6300rpm it was at 875/771. Did it really make 875 on 12 degrees???? Dynojet VS Dynapac...... Well ECS says their stage 1 is good for 800whp. The cam should peak around 6400-6500rpm and shift around 6700-6800rpm.

Now talking about maxing out the V3 TI. One thing I noticed looking through receipts I got from the guy was that the blower had been rebuilt. I thought that odd seeing how the kit was less then 2 years old with less then 7k on it. After a quick call to A&A I found out that where he was shifting the car before he was over spinning the blower by about 1900rpm shifting at 6500rpm. A&A said that would run the bearing out of the V3 TI.

Before anyone says 900whp it will break or blow up the SBE please understand my intention was not to make 1000whp. I was good with the 795whp. This is just where the car is after being fixed.

I did purchase a 3.60 pulley and new belt from A&A which should put me a tickle over max impeller speed when I shift at 6700-6800. But now I'm wonder if it would be better to just send the blower to Vortech to have it upgraded to a V1. From what I gather it raised the HP rating to 950hp from 900hp {1250cfm to 1400cfm}, ups the max impeller speed to 55000rpm vs 52000rpm, goes to heavy duty bearings and engine oil feed.

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome

Patriot Six

If you plan to overspin a Ti trim, the HD version is highly recommended.

PSSSSSHC6

If I stick with the V3 and drop to 3.6 pulley shifting at 6700rpm it will put me right around 53600rpm {1600rpm over}. If tried to spin it to 7k it would be a 56000rpm {4000 over}. A&A said 6700-6800rpm shifts will be ok. But If I plan to do anything else I'm pretty much at a stopping point or limit unless I go V1. With it on the current 3.47 pulley I could shifted 7k and be right at 55677. Decisions Decisions!

Does anyone know the charge to upgrade from V3 to V1?

Unreal

Typical blower rebuild with all new seals/bearings/etc is around $650. I would assume it would be in that range.

PSSSSSHC6

Hell that would be almost a no brainer. The new pulley and belt was over $200

jayyyw

Yeah, sure buddy.

PSSSSSHC6

The tuner is a pretty stand up guy but he does own a z06. You know how then wide body guys hate on the narrow bodies lol! No fun having the rev limiter pulled down to 6200rpm to shift below 6k and be told to order a fuel system if it wasn't need. ONE LOVE HOMIE

Al_Scrap

Quick question here, A&A Corvette mention you need to run their OD balancer, stating stock, ATI or IW will not work.
It's a missprint or you really run a stock diameter balancer?

Unreal

For the new A&A DD kit you need their modified IW balancer. If you have an old A&A DD then you can use whatever balancer.

Patriot Six

It’s their modified 8 rib IW balancer, but in stock diameter size. That was so I didn’t overspin my V3-Ti with the 3.47 blower pulley.

Spzany

stock motor ? what size engine ?

Bdubya24

Guessing you got caught up in reading. I do too, but this thread is 4 years old.