doomi

So I'm neck deep in ordering parts for my supercharger build, most of which are on the way.

My goal is a safe 700-750 rwhp.

I'm waffling on the need for new pistons and rods at this point as I see a lot of folks running more power on stock setups.

What are your opinions for the necessity to upgrade at this point? And if you say necessary, any suggestions?

Current mods that matter to this are long tube headers and BTR stage 2 cam.

Adding :
A&A V2 Ti trim supercharger w/ 3.6" pulley
Boost-a-pump
80lb injectors
Meth kit - dual nozzle
ARP head studs
LS9 gaskets
LS7 lifters

JetstreamGS

At that level I wouldn't bother touching it.

doomi

Thanks for the reply. Just curious what level you think warrants that kind of work?

JetstreamGS

That's a difficult question to answer. They seem to stay together under 800rw. Then again you've got guys like dextoxx making near 1000rw on a sbe. Fuel and tuning is key.

g23crawler

I wouldn't bother messing with it either. Before you will need pistons/rods you are going to need a new fuel system, smaller pulley, probably 8 rib, and a built tranny before worrying about the sbe IMO.
I make 800 with cam, head studs, ls9 gaskets, e85, twins and my A6 is gonna explode before my bottom end does. But its all in the tune (engine and transmission).

doomi

Thanks for your replies based on experience. Very helpful.

My installer said I'm fine on sbe and he really knows his stuff. Just wanted to get a couple more opinions.

I have full faith in my tuner as well, so it sounds like I should be good to go.

schpenxel

Don't mess with it if under 800rwhp IMO. 700-750 should be fine if tuned well and if there's enough octane/fuel

I've seen people have a fluke cracked ring land on one piston and just throw some stock pistons back in for next to nothing and it was fine for years after that. They hold up fine until you get over 800, especially on centri setups since they aren't as crazy torque wise

E85 is always a plus too, if available, if you really want to max it out

Unreal

Don't touch it.

If you are going to build, build it for 1000+, then enjoy it at 800.

Detoxx03

Just leave it. Make sure the tune is good and you have good octane and it will be fine.

doomi

Sounds like case closed on this one.

Thanks all!

harleyreb1

I’m about to boost a stock motor (did add a cam and springs) to around the 800 mark so we will see how it goes.

TurboLX

Make sure you have delivered Lambda around 0.78 and spark it so there is no detected (or actual) knock on pump gas and you should be OK. Methanol is just extra fuel and octane (safety margin), but if you calibrate to depend on it, you risk catastrophic engine failure if the meth system ever misses the mark.

Unreal

If you really want to boost a stock motor, might as well throw a nice forged 4" stroker crank in

I happen to have a Callies Dragon slayer 4" ready to go. $1400

xBoostx

IMO OP should listen to those who lost nearly the entire motor due to rod metal fatigue or piston ring land fail.

I had a stock block running consistent 10.5 for 3.5 years had a ton of fun till it let go last Feb 3 on superbowl day, lost the block cam would not use the rods that survived or the pistons and crankshaft again, I now have a beautifull car but no motor.

OP your intentions on going forge from the get-go will serve you well follow your heart it will cost less and avoid down time, the alternative is later buying a block rods pistons cam, well you get it.

I'm not the only one on here in these shoes by a long shot eather. There are three other guys in my area whos ls3 let a rod or two off the side of the block and all of us were N-A.

About the fuel pump address that issue with an e85 capable Walbro 450 gph and instrall a return system using the smaller fuel presure regulator you can find hook it up off the oem fuel rails shrader valve with a -6 hose and you are good cause the factory fuel presure regulator built in to the system will have a short life with the larger capcity pump.

As for pistons and rods I would contact Scot crank they have it all and they know just what you need so no need to remove the crank.
https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/