Florida_1959

Ok so Im new to the LS engine so Im going to ask a couple questions that may seem dumb, but I was always taught the only dumb question is the one you fail to ask.
Putting an AA supercharger on a 2012 GS with dry sump and M6. I decided that while I was in that deep I would replace the balancer with a Power Bond 10% OD part # PB081503-SS10.
so here are my questions.
1) Is it advisable to get one of the balancer installer tools off ebay for the initial balancer pull in?
2) Since the balancer is not keyed to the crankshaft, (I know I'm pinning it) but everyone says to measure the distance from the crank nose on the old balancer and compare it to the new one to determine the depth so the belts line up. My question is, if the balancer is a press fit, what stops the depth other than the "fit and torque". What do you do if it goes in too far or doesn't go in the same? There is really no remedy, you cant over torque it to try and pull it in further, and cant under torque to not pull it in so far because that's what keeps it in position. Is the balancer going to be in the correct position because it will stop against the oil pump gear?
Second, I will have no issues removing the old bolt as I have a 3/4" impact that should back it right out. I have a large torque wrench for the install so tightening wont be an issue, but wondering the best way to stop the crank from turning. Can I put the car in gear and just use that for holding the crank from turning? Or do I really need to get the flywheel locking tool?
3) Can anyone confirm the ARP bolt number for the 2012 LS3 (dry sump) is 234-2504?

Thanks for any help, Im still learning since this is my first vette and first LS motor.

Spaceme1117

I have removed the balancer from two different LS cars and I just rented a puller from AutoZone: https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ler/391370_0_0


This one on Amazon works well also and is pretty much the same thing:

No need to worry if the balancer will go on too far or not far enough. Just follow the install procedure and it will be fine. You will need a balancer install tool however. The stock or ARP bolt is not long enough to engage the threads of the crank. I like this one from Proform:

As for locking the crank, you can use a flywheel locking tool. You unbolt the starter and install the tool in its place. I have this one:

I highly recommend using the locking tool. It guarantees the crank won't turn. If you put the car in gear and the rear wheels are on the ground, you can cause the car to move forward which would be very bad.

And that is the correct part number for the ARP crank bolt for a dry sump Grand Sport. I just put one on my car for my E-Force install.

Florida_1959

Thanks to all for the write-ups on the balancer removal. I was able to get enough room by moving he rack to the passenger side then angling the drivers end and pulling it back thru the radiator support bracket. I didnt have to pull it out which was a lot less work. A short 1/2" drive impact and deep socket was a perfect reach, combined with the OTR short balancer puller. My question is now can anyone recommend anything else that I "should" do while im in there doing the cam? I know Im going to replace the cam, valve springs, trunion brgs, pushrods and retaining plate and bolts, but should I do anything else? The cam sensor while the cover is off and everything out of the way? I also have a Power bond 10% OD balancer going in and ARP crank boll after pinning it. I will replace the two belts while Im in there, and wrap some heat tape around some of the lines and hoses since im installing a set of BB long tube headers and catless X pipe.

I want to do everything I can "preventative" while Ive got everything out of the way.

My build will have an AA supercharger, Dewitts radiator, prospeed dual fan and shroud.

Thank you to all the people who do the write-ups, it makes it possible for others to learn and tackle some interesting DIY.

Chiselchst

Yes

Spaceme1117

Sounds like you’ve got everything covered. Most people also change out the valve seals when doing springs. Depending on what springs you go with, they may already come with the seals.

Florida_1959

Sorry, yes I am changing the valve springs and seals. Dual springs and seals came with the blower cam from Brian Tooley Racing.

I do have another question, looking for more advice. Since im going 10% OD on the balancer, do you think that will help with the alternator at idle and low speed? I read about people having low voltage when installing the dual fans. Like I said, i only want to be in this one time so if its recommended to get a higher output alternator, well I will do that from the start and put it in on the reassembly.

Thank you