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Fan has it's own controller so you don't need the old one and change the fan frequency from 128hz to 100hz with hp tuners. It doesn't fit right in but it doesn't take much to make brackets for it to slide in place.
For people who are asking what the badass single fan looks like.
Darn, this would have fit much better on my setup considering I have a cutdown and my prospeed with the dual fan setup has a fan RIGHT in front of my F-1X blower outlet and I had to trim some. This would be a solid setup for a blower car who already made the mistake of going cut down radiator and needs better flow.
Had it specfically design for blower cars. Not only that but isn't super restrictive once you move and get driving. Still allows plenty of air through the unshrouded part, and keeps fan/etc away from blower.
Had it specfically design for blower cars. Not only that but isn't super restrictive once you move and get driving. Still allows plenty of air through the unshrouded part, and keeps fan/etc away from blower.
I think it's the shroud. My 05 never had any cooling issues. My 13 has always ran hotter even before the blower. I installed the c7z fan and it'd running about 10 to 15 degrees cooler. It's a smaller fan than the stock one but it has a good shroud and looks better.
I think it's the shroud. My 05 never had any cooling issues. My 13 has always ran hotter even before the blower. I installed the c7z fan and it'd running about 10 to 15 degrees cooler. It's a smaller fan than the stock one but it has a good shroud and looks better.
its funny you mention that, i noticed my 10' GS didnt have a shroud or even a good fit to the radiator. I always thought that was really inefficient. So does the 05 fan itself perform any better or just the shroud makes the difference.?
its funny you mention that, i noticed my 10' GS didnt have a shroud or even a good fit to the radiator. I always thought that was really inefficient. So does the 05 fan itself perform any better or just the shroud makes the difference.?
So what is the differences between the 05 fans and other years factory fans?
Originally Posted by BT03mach-1
I think it's the shroud. My 05 never had any cooling issues. My 13 has always ran hotter even before the blower. I installed the c7z fan and it'd running about 10 to 15 degrees cooler. It's a smaller fan than the stock one but it has a good shroud and looks better.
Originally Posted by VVVROOMTX
its funny you mention that, i noticed my 10' GS didnt have a shroud or even a good fit to the radiator. I always thought that was really inefficient. So does the 05 fan itself perform any better or just the shroud makes the difference.?
Originally Posted by schpenxel
Curious about this too, I am not sure
There is definitely a shroud difference. The earlier cars had a closed shroud while the later ones had a fan that had a "swiss cheese" shroud... I don't know off the top of my head whether the actual fan motor/shape is different as well.
Here’s a couple of screen shots that show the difference between the 2005 and later model fans. I just grabbed these from Rockauto’s website. Coincidently, Rockauto lists the 2005 fan as an OEM replacement for my car’s model year (2013). But I definitely have the one with the “skeletal” shroud on the driver’s side. The 2005 model with the full shroud has to work much better, at least for low speed cooling, in my view. Hell, for $250, I would buy one of these before investing in an expensive custom setup, unless you need the extra space for a centri setup.
The bottom pic is a cheap TYC replacement, but it looks exactly like the fan on my car.
I know alot of guys have switched to dual set ups. Who has had luck using a SINGLE replacement fan to ditch the factory single unit. Looking for 3000cfm at least to pull through the intercooler and condenser. Most likely SPAL low profile. Can make my own shroud if needed. Is there a plug and play unit for sale out of the box without the need to upgrade my alternator due to increased amps. I keep hearing how these draw liitle amps at start up due to the motor ramping up to full speed, but when I talked to a rep at SPAL they stated I may need to upgrade to a 140amp alt. So is the upgraded alternator needed or now. I know Dewitts has a dual setup but that apparently is only a direct drop in if you order their radiator also.Not looking for the shotgun approach by replacing everything, trying the fan first to see if that rectifies the temp issue. So any luck with a direct drop in SINGLE fan unit ?? Does not have to be a SPAL if anyone has had luck using another brand fan for their SC motor . My Z is parked until I resolve this problem
What exactly is "the temp issue." What is "this problem" that needs to be resolved.
If you're stock (or close to stock), the stock cooling system won't overheat in any condition, provided it's well maintained and in good working order. If you have overheating issues in stock trim with the stock fans, you need to diagnose and repair whatever else is wrong with your cooling system. "Upgrading" the fan might help mask the real issue, but it won't solve any actual problem.
If you're highly modified, talk to your tuner. Tuning the mapping for the stock fans will be far better than any aftermarket replacement fan. Stock fans have to protect the engine for at least the warranty period. They are built to much higher standards and perform better than almost all aftermarket "performance" fans. The stock fans are more reliable and move more air than almost anything available in the aftermarket. If you have a highly modified engine, but still use the stock radiator (and it's still adequate for your engine), you won't find a "better" fan than the stock one.
If you're modified to the point where the stock radiator is inadequate, then replacing the radiator and the fans with a higher capacity radiator and a fan setup that works with the higher capacity radiator might be necessary. If you can find a bigger/better radiator that works with the stock fans, that's probably going to be a better choice than most aftermarket fans.
The issue is the big intercooler blocking airflow to the radiator for Procharged/A&A/ECS cars at low speeds. Naturally aspirated cars dont seem to have this issue. @C6_Racer_X
The issue is the big intercooler blocking airflow to the radiator for Procharged/A&A/ECS cars at low speeds. Naturally aspirated cars dont seem to have this issue. @C6_Racer_X
In other situations where I've had issues with "obstructions" in front of the radiator (often a combination of transmission cooler and AC condensor), I've found that a supplemental "pusher fan" on the front of the obstruction helps. Either add a relay and control it in parallel with the main fan relay, or use a temperature operated switch like the GM/AC Delco one from the late 3rd gen Camaros to turn on the pusher fan.
Adding fan capacity to the stock fan to overcome the obstruction has always been a better option than "upgrading" the stock fan in my experience.
Not really a good option for a blower car. There is very little to no room to add a pusher, and then at speed, the pusher just becomes a restriction and block to airflow to the intercooler.
I just installed a c7z fan and it's been working good so far. Before the install this week it was running around 195-205. After I installed it last weekend it's running in the low 180's steady. I have only got to drive it one day but it's looking good but the real test will be this summer.
What kind of HP are you pushing? Mods? I assume your still on stock radiator.
Just under 670 rwhp....ECS 1500, cam, headers,cai,meth,etc etc . Radiator is stock, and fan appears to be stock. What I did notice is that the shop that did the work did not install it in the best way possible.Red flag #1- There is at least an inch gap between the plastic fan shroud and radiator itself,what I think is allowing air to be pulled in from around the radiator instead of directly through it.Also it looks like the installer rigged it to fit by zip tying it to a coolant hose ( not exactly proper IMO ), and the shroud looks like it was cut/butchered to fit while installing the FI setup , understandable but do it right at least. Don't know what the tune is set at regarding the fan, assuming they even lowered it ? Anyway, it is way to hot for my liking, and we just hit record high temps in my area, my a/c at home can't even keep up with cooling the house, LOL...go figure ! Runs normal on the highway, a bit hot in traffic.My C5 Z ran 240 ish in summer temps.It gets hot as f*ck as some of the other Florida guys here can agree on.
Just under 670 rwhp....ECS 1500, cam, headers,cai,meth,etc etc . Radiator is stock, and fan appears to be stock. What I did notice is that the shop that did the work did not install it in the best way possible.Red flag #1- There is at least an inch gap between the plastic fan shroud and radiator itself,what I think is allowing air to be pulled in from around the radiator instead of directly through it.Also it looks like the installer rigged it to fit by zip tying it to a coolant hose ( not exactly proper IMO ), and the shroud looks like it was cut/butchered to fit while installing the FI setup , understandable but do it right at least. Don't know what the tune is set at regarding the fan, assuming they even lowered it ? Anyway, it is way to hot for my liking, and we just hit record high temps in my area, my a/c at home can't even keep up with cooling the house, LOL...go figure ! Runs normal on the highway, a bit hot in traffic.My C5 Z ran 240 ish in summer temps.It gets hot as f*ck as some of the other Florida guys here can agree on.
Mine has a pretty good gap between the shroud and the radiator surface as well.
04-30-2019, 10:13 PM
