Ahrmike

As the title says: I want to build a drysump LS3 out of my GS. Figured I'd ask the FI community since I may want to go SC later. Is there any good tutorials out there or guides/kits/etc that will help me?

Looking to get 800 hp max, would be happy around 650 wheel. Want to run 92 pump as well. Someone point me in the direction of a good combo please! piston/rods/heads/cam/SC + supporting items. Or, if you have what I'm looking to get maybe a list of YOUR mods. I'm comfortable with doing my own mechanical work but it'll be the first time opening up the bottom end of an engine so I'd love to have a tutorial crutch to lean on. I remember reading a simple "buy this for a budget LS3" in the past and links like that would be great too.

TY!

Patriot Six

A&A kit with meth will get you 650whp. Cam, headers, and e85 with more boost will get you to 800 with the right fuel system and supporting mods. No need to build the bottom end for your goals.

donnyt

On my GS I have an ECS1500, Meth and headers/cam. On 8psi I put down 630whp with 91/meth. Still stock heads/internals

CI GS

At that power level, it wouldn’t make sense to upgrade the internals. The M6 dry sump GS motors came with the “hand built” at Wixom motors (compared to the “Mexican” motor in my A6 GS). There are guys now making over 900whp on stock bottom end LS3s. Save your money and spend a bit of it on getting a good tune. Because a bad tune will wreck any motor, no matter how expensive the internals are. My 2 cents, FWIW.

VVVROOMTX

No need to use money to build the bottom end for 650rwhp. The stock LS3 bottom end is reliable all the way into the 800-900 crank range.

If you want to build the motor now to have it ready for more power later then i can understand that.

I say you get a cam, good valvetrain, port the heads, exhaust, meth nozzle, and a blower. that will be perfect for the 650-700goal and still be very safe on pump gas.

Unreal

Dont touch anything.

Shortpersonbk

Bone stock ls3
Blower cam
BTR springs
A&A v3 si or ti/or ecs novi 1500
longtubes
--
Boom easy 650whp.

JetstreamGS

My exact setup. 651rwhp.

Ahrmike

Guys: Thank you all for the input. I appreciate it. The reason I was interested in doing this was because of some earlier issues I had: I ran a name brand intake kit on my GS along with a set of LTs and a diablosport tuner. Between the three of them in combination, I managed to get some lean detonation which put little pits on the spark plug side of all of my pistons (confirmed via boroscope). This eventually is what led me to think about pulling my motor to at least install a new set of pistons. From what I've been reading + everyones advice here, I maybe better off not touching anything other than the pistons and adding a set of heads/cam in preparation for the blower.

I've been looking at some no-balance JE pistons in stock bore size at the moment unless anyone has better input. I will likely do heads/cam at the same time as well as twin disk clutch/lightened FW/ATI balancer.

I should note: Piston walls still look brand new, piston pits look superficial, and the car is no longer pinging so no further damage will occur. Car also runs great at the moment but I hate knowing theres a possibility the pistons are weakened due to the pits. I eventually wanted to go cam/FI and would never think of doing so on these pitted pistons so I thought I should get advice from the forum before I went ahead and did anything stupid (like last time).

For my earlier issues did read a lot of information on my intake/LT/tuner and from everything I read, it said it would be fine with no tune tweaks so I went ahead and installed everything - Car ran like crappy so I asked the forum and the knowledgeable guys in the scan/tune forum told me to tune it right. Bought HPtuners and after properly tuning it with some more tutorial/help from forum members, I've learned that I should've asked the forum to scavenge knowledge so here I am...

TLDR:

My pistons are ugly because of my earlier stupidity. Would like to change pistons at least meaning I have to pull the engine/open the bottom end. Would all of your recommendations still be the same? Piston/rod only? no rods necessary? Rods are 300 for scat I beams and 800 for hbeams. Would it be worth it?

Thank you.

JetstreamGS

I’d definitely do rods too if it’s coming apart.

Unreal

I would do rods if it is coming apart, and don't cheap out if you do them. I wouldn't expect a $300 scat rod to be any better than a factory rod.

Pistons are also all over the place. My first set of pistons was $1000 with rings, new set is $1800+. There is some huge differences in pistons, so make sure you know what you are getting.

VVVROOMTX

yeah if you are already going to open up the motor to swap pistons, then you should just go ahead and do rods/pistons. It works out better anyway to pay/do the work once vs opening it up again later, probably sooner than later keep in mind, to put rods.

Look at the Callies Compstar rod/piston combos. Good stuff that hold alot of power.

Now when you do the cam, blower, and heads you can turn it up more strait away

Shortpersonbk

I would not purchase drop in pistons without first having the bottom end apart where you can measure the cylinder and make sure its not ovaled ect. If you do drop ins and the cylinder isnt in really good shape i have seen alot of people have bad piston slap and burning oil. The only time I have used drop ins were on a motor with a brand new case and everything was still measured to make sure it was going to be fine for its budget while still not being ideal. Maybe just I am weird about this and others will disagree.

Rods at 650whp in a gen 4 motor? Sounds pointless even more so if it ends up with a centri which doesnt spike torque hard or anything.

Unreal

If you want a great start to an awesome build I got a dry sump dragon slayer crank that would be a great start and probably come out about the same as using a stock crank but be a huge upgrade.

JetstreamGS

It’s a no brainer if it’s already apart and going to be boosted.

Unreal

I agree with Jetstream, if you are spending that much money in labor, parts, machine work, etc etc the cost of rods is so minimal why not do it at the time? If you are on such a tight budget that rods can't be done, then drop a stock ls3 or junk yard setup in it. If you are putting money into a nice motor, do it once and do it right IMO.

Shortpersonbk

With that same thought then something like drop in pistons should not be used. If you are going all out on parts then the entire block should be machined. Then your spending big $ just to make 650whp and for what something maaaaybe more reliable but your also adding human error to the situation.

If he wanted more power it would totally make sense just hard to see. Either way if your doing one i would agree with doing both.

Unreal

Agreed, I would not do just drop in pistons. I rather just run a stock ls3. Either go all in, or just source another stock LS motor to enjoy.

Ahrmike

Thanks everyone. My base plan now is:

Rods (if budget permits), Piston (will spend $ to make sure these are good. Will take a look at the Callies, thanks for the tip - Theres a very small chance that Ill go OEM since I know with a proper tune it should be fine, and I think the hypereutetics are more forgiving in the short term). While the engine is out, I will also likely do LT1-s clutch as well as all the supporting trans stuff - bearings, guibos, etc. I'll also freshen up the top half with spinmonster cam package - and maybe do TF or AFR heads depending on if my heads are in good condition or not. Will keep my stock crank, not mess with crank bearing, etc. but will check my cylinder for ovaling or other wear.

As far as currently - I've taken my car up to redline a few times and it has not knocked. I'll do all of this hopefully within a year to prevent anything catastrophic from happening. I'll make a build thread maybe so another noob like me can get some insight.