When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need one of these ASAP !
Voltage stays at 14.6 right off the battery tender .
But as soon as i leave the house in my c6z and kill the car, get back in she drops everytime.
I need the black one 👍🏻
Your PM box has been full for some time now. I checked back a few times. I left a message on your visitor page hoping to hear from you.
Will the pulley have to be changed to work on cars with auto transmissions?
No sir. The alternators include pulleys. If you're referring to the decoupler pulley that GM puts on some alternators, they're not interchangeable with my alternators. The thread diameter and pitch is different. I've had many customers change from factory alternators with decoupler pulleys to my alternator and never a complaint.
Best money I've ever spent! Tuning is such a breeze with these things you never have to worry about your injector voltage tables being dead on with these thing! I mean you should still but my voltage is always steady as a rock.
I have a boost-a-pump fuel system for my E85… Do I need the 240 amp or will the 170 work? I still have the stock fan and just an aftermarket head unit no answer anything in my car. At some point I might do the dual van option I'm not sure
I live in Dallas near you so could I come and pick it up or do you still need to mail it?
Last edited by starchedup; 04-27-2016 at 05:13 PM.
I have a boost-a-pump fuel system for my E85… Do I need the 240 amp or will the 170 work? I still have the stock fan and just an aftermarket head unit no answer anything in my car. At some point I might do the dual van option I'm not sure
I live in Dallas near you so could I come and pick it up or do you still need to mail it?
You're more than welcome to stop by and pick one up. I'm currently out of stock and have more coming any day now. My cell# is 972-741-7457. Send me a text and I can let you know when I have one ready for you.
You're more than welcome to stop by and pick one up. I'm currently out of stock and have more coming any day now. My cell# is 972-741-7457. Send me a text and I can let you know when I have one ready for you.
Update to the sale thread:
In addition to the alternator upgrades, I’m offering a new 1/0gauge hot bypass cable.
Over the years, I've tested many C6's and investigated many alternator failures. In conclusion, I've found a significant # of cars with massive voltage drops on the hot side. If you want to know if your car is one of them, take a volt meter. Run your car to full temp with the hood closed. Keep it running and turn on all the electrical items that you can. A/C on high, high beams etc. Then take your volt meter and measure from the output lug on the alternator to the mounting bracket or clean, shiny metal on the alternator (no anodized parts). write that # down. Then move to the passenger side and measure from the power distribution post at the fuse/relay box to chassis ground. Write that # down. Then go to the battery and measure across the posts. Not the terminals, but the actual posts. Write that # down. If the voltage at the battery is .3v less than the alternator measurement, then you have a problem. I've been finding drops of over 1 volt lately and the greatest drop has been on the positive side between the alternator and the power distribution post. What I've been doing to solve the problem is running a 1/0 gauge copper (not CCA) wire directly from the alternator output to the power distribution post and cutting the other cable off the alternator. How much there is to be gained is determined by how much drop you're experiencing from the alternator output to that power post. If you take your volt meter and touch one lead to the alternator output and the other to the power post (with the car still running and all the accessories on), it will read the actual amount of drop you're experiencing. Running the new cable will reduce that drop down to as low as .1v.
I'm offering these cables to anyone that doesn't want to build one on their own. I'm using good, high-strand 1/0 copper welding cable and covering it with a nice, nylon braid and heat shrink at each end. 99.00 with your alternator purchase and 115.00 shipped when purchased separately. Let me know if anyone's interested.
Update to the sale thread:
In addition to the alternator upgrades, I’m offering a new 1/0gauge hot bypass cable.
Over the years, I've tested many C6's and investigated many alternator failures. In conclusion, I've found a significant # of cars with massive voltage drops on the hot side. If you want to know if your car is one of them, take a volt meter. Run your car to full temp with the hood closed. Keep it running and turn on all the electrical items that you can. A/C on high, high beams etc. Then take your volt meter and measure from the output lug on the alternator to the mounting bracket or clean, shiny metal on the alternator (no anodized parts). write that # down. Then move to the passenger side and measure from the power distribution post at the fuse/relay box to chassis ground. Write that # down. Then go to the battery and measure across the posts. Not the terminals, but the actual posts. Write that # down. If the voltage at the battery is .3v less than the alternator measurement, then you have a problem. I've been finding drops of over 1 volt lately and the greatest drop has been on the positive side between the alternator and the power distribution post. What I've been doing to solve the problem is running a 1/0 gauge copper (not CCA) wire directly from the alternator output to the power distribution post and cutting the other cable off the alternator. How much there is to be gained is determined by how much drop you're experiencing from the alternator output to that power post. If you take your volt meter and touch one lead to the alternator output and the other to the power post (with the car still running and all the accessories on), it will read the actual amount of drop you're experiencing. Running the new cable will reduce that drop down to as low as .1v.
I'm offering these cables to anyone that doesn't want to build one on their own. I'm using good, high-strand 1/0 copper welding cable and covering it with a nice, nylon braid and heat shrink at each end. 99.00 with your alternator purchase and 115.00 shipped when purchased separately. Let me know if anyone's interested.
Any pictures of this installed? I am also interested in a 170 Amp alternator for my 08 Z06. Which finishes do you have in stock and which one best matches a Nick Williams throttle body... Polished or Machined? Shipping to 21042 or location for pickup.
Any pictures of this installed? I am also interested in a 170 Amp alternator for my 08 Z06. Which finishes do you have in stock and which one best matches a Nick Williams throttle body... Polished or Machined? Shipping to 21042 or location for pickup.
Josh
I don't have any pictures of it installed yet. When you run it the way that I do, it's very difficult to see. I run it along the crevice, just below the valve cover, where the cylinder head and intake manifold meet. Unplug the coils and lay it under the wiring harness. After reaching the back of the engine, run it across the backside and as you reach the passenger side of the engine, run it low, under the other lines and harnesses and across to the power distribution block.
The Nick Williams TB is more of a brushed satin finish. If it were mine, I would polish it and get the polished alternator. If you're not set up to polish it and want it done, you can send it to me and I'll polish it to a mirror shine.
I've got both polished and machined finished units in stock.
Bret
__________________
Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
12-05-2015, 09:02 AM
