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Factory shaft is reconditioned, bushings are replaced with #SKF Needle Bearings and seals for a smooth shift that will never deteriorate.
The statement above was copied from the original post. It mentions using needle bearings in lieu of bushings. I just received my rebuilt box (shaft not installed) and noticed that the rear location has a bushing installed. There is a needle bearing in the front location. I'm not sure it matters but am wondering what others have received? It's probably difficult to tell if you have a busing or needle bearing if the shaft is already installed. Don't like it when things turn out different than expected. I sent an email to TMOD but no response yet.
I replied to your email yesterday morning, here's the same info, if you would rather have a box with bearings on both ends that's fine with me, whatever you think you would prefer. The truth is you wouldn't be able to tell the difference, if anyone were able to notice a difference I would bet they would prefer the Teflon, I do, that's why I made the change. I changed from the bearing in the rear to the Teflon bushing in the rear a while ago, I had made the change in my personal C6 about the same time I had gone to the new shifter, a while ago. The Teflon bushing helps to dampen vibration entering the box from the linkage. All of these cars have some amount of vibration, some more than others. I would expect any car that has less than optimal torque tube bushings and lower box components to also have less than optimal shifter linkage wear. These things all wear in a similar fashion; much faster than anyone would like. The problem is that most people are not replacing their shifter linkages with their lower boxes, this is because you have to do a lot more work to get that linkage out, basically it's done when you do a clutch job.
I recommend EVERYONE at least check, probably replace, their linkages when they replace their clutch. If you want a linkage with actual universals in place of the lousy factory ends let me know, I am rebuilding linkages now for C5 and C6 cars.
Like I said, the problem is that most people are not replacing the linkage, so they are gong to have more vibration and slop, this is the reason I went to the Teflon bushing in the rear. It's better for most cars in my opinion. It's not cheaper and it's a bit more work, but the result is a little bit tighter and a little bit more dampening in the box, it's a win win.
I replied to your email yesterday morning, here's the same info, if you would rather have a box with bearings on both ends that's fine with me, whatever you think you would prefer. The truth is you wouldn't be able to tell the difference, if anyone were able to notice a difference I would bet they would prefer the Teflon, I do, that's why I made the change. I changed from the bearing in the rear to the Teflon bushing in the rear a while ago, I had made the change in my personal C6 about the same time I had gone to the new shifter, a while ago. The Teflon bushing helps to dampen vibration entering the box from the linkage. All of these cars have some amount of vibration, some more than others. I would expect any car that has less than optimal torque tube bushings and lower box components to also have less than optimal shifter linkage wear. These things all wear in a similar fashion; much faster than anyone would like. The problem is that most people are not replacing their shifter linkages with their lower boxes, this is because you have to do a lot more work to get that linkage out, basically it's done when you do a clutch job.
I recommend EVERYONE at least check, probably replace, their linkages when they replace their clutch. If you want a linkage with actual universals in place of the lousy factory ends let me know, I am rebuilding linkages now for C5 and C6 cars.
Like I said, the problem is that most people are not replacing the linkage, so they are gong to have more vibration and slop, this is the reason I went to the Teflon bushing in the rear. It's better for most cars in my opinion. It's not cheaper and it's a bit more work, but the result is a little bit tighter and a little bit more dampening in the box, it's a win win.
Good info. I found your email, it went to spam. I'm totally fine with Teflon. If you recall, I had questioned the use of a needle bearing in a 'sliding' application. I won't install for a few months yet but am anxious to check it out. Thx for the response.
Good info. I found your email, it went to spam. I'm totally fine with Teflon. If you recall, I had questioned the use of a needle bearing in a 'sliding' application. I won't install for a few months yet but am anxious to check it out. Thx for the response.
I was all about the bearings in the beginning but the Teflon combo has been standing strong. With a perfect or new linkage I'd maybe stick with the bearing just because you don't really have that little break in period but nobody's linkages are getting better with age so I think it's a solid move in the right direction. I'll post some linkage pics in a few
One of the most overlooked parts in the shifter assembly is the linkage. The shifter linkage has two movable joints, one on each end. With age and milage the ends of the linkage become more and more sloppy. When you add the slop from each end of the linkage and multiply it by the length of the shifter itself it results in just about all the slop you have in your shifter. Your always going to have a tiny bit of slop , a few tho; thousandths of an inch, but once you get rid of the slop in the shifter and the box the linkage is the only thing left. By adding my box and shifter and eliminating the slop in the linkage your going to have the absolute best, most precise and direct feeling shifter you can get in a C5, C6 or C7 Corvette.
New Universal (left) factory fore end (right) New Universal (bottom) factory end (top)
Here's a quick video showing a factory linkage in pretty good shape and the new universals.
Got any vids of the shifter in car going thru the gears?
I do but the one's I made are pretty crappy, I'm trying to hold my phone and rip thru gears at the same time. I'll turn a night shift guy into a cameraman tonight if I can and post it, I should have done this a long time ago.
Here's the most recent shifter linkage I've done. Compare it to the factory ends, much better in every way absolutely no slop. Compare it to your linkage and you'll see the difference feel the difference in your shifter and thank me later.
Last edited by TMODcustoms; 01-21-2019 at 06:21 PM.
Sent in my shifter box on 1/22/19, look forward to trying it out. My Corvette is a 2009 with 15k on it, just bought it off a forum member. Car is beautiful in every way but I didn't like the shifting at all. there was an aftermarket MGW shifter on it that was removed and put the stock shifter back in. Just putting the original stock shifter back in made the shifting better (MGW shifter for sale). After removing the shifter box i could tell it was not worn out at all, but was very stiff to push and pull and twist as if shifting. So I decided to send it to TMOD for a modification. I will update everyone on the results.
Blaine Jennings
Tom what is the charge for doing the shifter rod modification? How does it work we send ours in and you send it back or you have cores etc.
I can have one shipped in five days usually Price is $250.00. There is an additional core charge of $100.00. If you send your linkage in I can usually have it back in the mail within three or four days. No core charge if you send your linkage in ahead of time, otherwise core charge will be refunded within a week of receiving your core.
Since were talking about linkages I thought I'd share these pics. Replacing \ Upgrading the linkage is a great thing to do when your dropping the gearbox \ tube, so are the couplers. This is what happens to the rubber couplers inside your torque tube. It's sometimes overlooked but something you definitely want to replace while your doing a clutch, any gearbox service that you have it out and in an automatic as well. These bushings are one of the most common causes of vibration in the shifter, you can only imagine how much rubber debris is tumbling around inside your tube as it breaks down over time.
Na, lots of people make them already, nobody else does the linkage the way I do. Even the brand new factory linkage has slop in it, it increases over time but any slop in the linkage is multiplied into the shifter\****\ your hand. My rebuilt linkages have needle bearings in them, no slop at all.
Last edited by TMODcustoms; 02-06-2019 at 03:51 PM.
Reason: typo
I'm getting a new logo made pretty soon, so fancy. If it's cool would people like it engraved on the box or the shifter? I guess we would have to figure out if it's cool or not...
01-19-2019, 06:39 PM
