NJ_phil

Time to dyno my car to see exactly what numbers it puts out. Can't believe I found a place with a DynoJet only 5 miles from my house at pretty damn reasonable prices and glad it's not 100 miles away.

Car is running great but I want to max it out to get a possible 800+ number from it without blowing it apart. Just trying to come up with a method for dialing it up safely.
I got the Dyno for as long as needed and can make 10+ pulls, so not in a rush.

Mods:
Stock LS3 bottom end, Big Blower Cam, Headers, etc...
1500SL, 10% OD, 3.25" pulley, running 14psi max but that's programmable and can go to 18
ID1000s, Stage II fuel system, etc..
Spark @ 7000 = 9 degrees
AFR = 11.3
Meth 50/50
Wideband

Figured I'd do new plugs, put a tank of 93 in and add a can or Torco


The guy will either let me run the car myself or just take data so I'll probably hammer on it myself and keep eyes glued to the computer looking for knock and making sure AFR stays on track. He knows his **** so I'd be a fool not to pick his brain and take any advice he offers.

I would think just a pull with the tune that's in it to set a baseline.
Spray both 500cc nozzles at max
Start to lean it out over 6000 and try to run @ 11.8 AFR. I think risk vs reward going higher is not worth it
Then bring spark up 2% at a time to see where torque and HP does. Back it down if no increases are seen
And never, ever, go over 14psi.

If there's enough time, I'll repeat the process without running Meth and see how much spark I need to pull and keep it safe.


Any reasonable advice appreciated.

schpenxel

Keep it under 800 rwtq (not sure if a 1500 can even make that much torque) and avoid knock like the plague and have at it IMO. The more octane the better

C6z06man

Just remember if you do something to add octane for the tune and run timing at MBT you'll ALWAYS need to run the octane "booster" or whatever you do. For my personal car the car was ran on 4 month old "off brand" gas (tuned after winter storage) that way if I'm ever in a situation where I have to buy some trash gas I won't be worried about it.

Yes of course the car has low and high octane spark tables to reduce timing if knock is seen. I personally would rather not rely on that feature. I tuned to MBT and left it there and compared to other with a similar setup I'm the same or .5 degrees less than their setup. The car took 1.5 degrees more without knocking but didn't make any more power so I turned it back down and left it there.

Good luck.

NJ_phil

I picked up 10 gals of VP110 but first need to find where MBT is with this setup. Data shows it's just around 5800 RPM where it produces 12lbs boost @ 12 degrees timing on 50/50 meth, no knock, but I pull 3 degrees when meth is not pressurized.

No way in hell I'll run the dyno tune either on the street of track, just want to first mess with timing before MBT to flatten out the torque curve and see what happens with HP on the other side of MBT with more timing. I don't believe in depending on knock sensors lowering timing because that means something is off and more that 1 degree of knock needs to be dealt with in the tune.

What I'm hoping is to run the 110, find MBT and advance till no increase in torque, then move down in 500 RPM increments and advance those points to max torque, then move up in 300 RPM increments to max out HP. This will define the slope of the timing curve for my setup. If I see 820hp, bleed more boost off or just stop there. If I can't hit mid 700s, start to go leaner but never past 11.8 Assuming I didn't lift a head or throw a rod, take a final money shot and call it done.

That same timing curve might be scaled down by some fixed percentage to be a used when going back to 93. Maybe scaled 80% for meth, 70% without.

schpenxel

A friend of mine tuned an ls3 Camaro on 110 and had to add a ton of timing to get back to the power he was making on e85. Not sure if it just burns slower or what but something to keep in mind

Second hand story though so who knows. Supposedly that isn't the case with 110

NJ_phil

LOL. That shoots my theory to hell.

Guess I can hit the dyno again and do it over on 93. Might be able to get it done in an hour and worth another $100.

Kinda sucks not to have RTT and a load bearing dyno like a DynaPak or mustang. It would be a lot easier than pull, tune, test, ad infinitum

schpenxel

Somewhere in the spark controls on Scanner there's a way to bulk add or subtract timing. I've not used it much but might be something to try since RTT isn't an option

And possible there was something else going on with his.. I've never really tried it myself, just something else to keep in mind