Can we disable the TPMS system ?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Can we disable the TPMS system ?
OK, we autocross our 2008 Z06.
Accordingly we change wheels/tires at the track before an event,
and again, after an event.
Is there any way we can tune the computer to disregard
any tire pressure sensors readings?
Re-learning between changes is just a PITA.
And I really don't care what the pressures are... I manage them manually.... even for my street tires.
Accordingly we change wheels/tires at the track before an event,
and again, after an event.
Is there any way we can tune the computer to disregard
any tire pressure sensors readings?
Re-learning between changes is just a PITA.
And I really don't care what the pressures are... I manage them manually.... even for my street tires.
#2
Team Owner
LG TPMS box
OR some company reprograms the, but got to mail the BCM in to be programmed.
Or DSX had something he is testing, could be out soon.
OR some company reprograms the, but got to mail the BCM in to be programmed.
Or DSX had something he is testing, could be out soon.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
DSX Tuning...
I already have a tune.
I don't want to disrupt that.
I can turn the nannies off via the button on the console.
But because of changing wheels/tires so often, I want to
disable the TPMS Monitor
(or whatever else I can do to stop the computer from putting me into "limp" mode,
when it can't read the TPMS valves).
OR.... does the computer actually care ?
I have not experienced any disruption yet, but when I want to do
a track day, and therefore drive spiritedly for 20 minutes or so,
can I get away without re-learning the computer ?
I don't mind it "doing its thing" with my street wheels (which I have taught the computer about).
I just don't want to have to constantly re-teach it every time I change wheels.
AND... I am running the SoloStorm software which has an ODB2
connector... so I can't run it AND your device.
I already have a tune.
I don't want to disrupt that.
I can turn the nannies off via the button on the console.
But because of changing wheels/tires so often, I want to
disable the TPMS Monitor
(or whatever else I can do to stop the computer from putting me into "limp" mode,
when it can't read the TPMS valves).
OR.... does the computer actually care ?
I have not experienced any disruption yet, but when I want to do
a track day, and therefore drive spiritedly for 20 minutes or so,
can I get away without re-learning the computer ?
I don't mind it "doing its thing" with my street wheels (which I have taught the computer about).
I just don't want to have to constantly re-teach it every time I change wheels.
AND... I am running the SoloStorm software which has an ODB2
connector... so I can't run it AND your device.
Last edited by NTMD8R; 06-06-2017 at 11:17 PM.
#5
You can get an OBD2 splitter off of eBay to run two devices together.
Mine doesn't interface with a tune at all.
The only thing this does is tell the ABS module to ignore the tire pressure error.
Mine doesn't interface with a tune at all.
The only thing this does is tell the ABS module to ignore the tire pressure error.
#6
Safety Car
OK, we autocross our 2008 Z06.
Accordingly we change wheels/tires at the track before an event,
and again, after an event.
Is there any way we can tune the computer to disregard
any tire pressure sensors readings?
Re-learning between changes is just a PITA.
And I really don't care what the pressures are... I manage them manually.... even for my street tires.
Accordingly we change wheels/tires at the track before an event,
and again, after an event.
Is there any way we can tune the computer to disregard
any tire pressure sensors readings?
Re-learning between changes is just a PITA.
And I really don't care what the pressures are... I manage them manually.... even for my street tires.
The following 2 users liked this post by irok:
bowtiefresh (04-11-2020),
romandian (07-09-2017)
#8
Team Owner
You would have to use a TPMS tool to sync it to those sensors.
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
No sweat... I have a tool (from when I had the 2007.... from 2008 to 2014).
OK, buy a piece of 3" PVC about 4 " long, and 2 end caps.
Teach the computer about 4 (new) sensors.
Glue 3 of them inside the pipe.
Drill a hole in one of the ends and fasten the remaining sensor
into it.
Use PVC glue to glue the 2 end caps to the pipe.
Inflate the pressure inside the pipe via that one sensor to 30 lbs.
TADA !!!!
Is this how to do it ?
Thanks in advance.
OK, buy a piece of 3" PVC about 4 " long, and 2 end caps.
Teach the computer about 4 (new) sensors.
Glue 3 of them inside the pipe.
Drill a hole in one of the ends and fasten the remaining sensor
into it.
Use PVC glue to glue the 2 end caps to the pipe.
Inflate the pressure inside the pipe via that one sensor to 30 lbs.
TADA !!!!
Is this how to do it ?
Thanks in advance.
#10
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 16,664
Received 1,194 Likes
on
1,053 Posts
St. Jude Donor '15
I'd probably just throw all 4 inside the tube and use something else for the stem on the pipe but either way would work
Or get in touch with Dave and just plug something in. Sounds easier to me.
Or get in touch with Dave and just plug something in. Sounds easier to me.
The following users liked this post:
rykerwolf (11-14-2023)
#11
Safety Car
No sweat... I have a tool (from when I had the 2007.... from 2008 to 2014).
OK, buy a piece of 3" PVC about 4 " long, and 2 end caps.
Teach the computer about 4 (new) sensors.
Glue 3 of them inside the pipe.
Drill a hole in one of the ends and fasten the remaining sensor
into it.
Use PVC glue to glue the 2 end caps to the pipe.
Inflate the pressure inside the pipe via that one sensor to 30 lbs.
TADA !!!!
Is this how to do it ?
Thanks in advance.
OK, buy a piece of 3" PVC about 4 " long, and 2 end caps.
Teach the computer about 4 (new) sensors.
Glue 3 of them inside the pipe.
Drill a hole in one of the ends and fasten the remaining sensor
into it.
Use PVC glue to glue the 2 end caps to the pipe.
Inflate the pressure inside the pipe via that one sensor to 30 lbs.
TADA !!!!
Is this how to do it ?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by irok; 06-07-2017 at 11:03 PM.
The following users liked this post:
mikebloedel (10-13-2017)
#12
Team Owner
Or find the company that removes it, mail your BCM in, pay the $150 or so, and enjoy to TPMS.
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
irok,
great....
must the pipe be 8" long ?, if so, why ?
how can we program each of the TPMS when they are inside the pipe?
(so why not program them before you put them in the pipe ?)
great....
must the pipe be 8" long ?, if so, why ?
how can we program each of the TPMS when they are inside the pipe?
(so why not program them before you put them in the pipe ?)
#14
Safety Car
pipe does not have to be 8" long.make any length that all your sensors will easily fit in.in my case my factory sensors are one piece and take up a little more space to fit in.I believe some of the newer sensors you can remove the valve stem from the sensor body and should work this way as well.if your tool allows you to program before putting in a wheel or pipe that will make things easier.tool I used would not program unless pipe pressurized first.they will program fine installed in pipe that is pressureized first.car dosent know whether its in a pipe or in tire on a rim.
The following users liked this post:
NTMD8R (06-08-2017)
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Well, I have been researching this quite a bit now.
Here's a quote from BEZ06 (the forum authority on TPMS), from 2015...
I read (interpret) this to mean (in my case).....
I have my street wheels/tires and their TPMS have been programmed.
All seems well when I drive to car to/from events.
At an event, we change to our autocross wheels/tires.
These have TPMS but I do NOT program them.
As the car is sitting in the pit/paddock area, the street TPMS are transmitting
every hour. Since the car is near these wheels/tires, I expect the car is receiving the signals.
Start car, proceed out to the course, put it in grid, turn car off.
When it is my turn to go, start car (so now that 30 minute time BEZ06 refers to would commence). Get car ready, make run, bring car back into grid for next run, turn car off.
Repeat.
So the 30 minute time limit would restart every time I start the car (I guess).
Since I have not driven the car more than 30 minutes during these runs, (probably 5 minutes at worst, between starting, putting car into TH/AH Off modes, proceeding up to start line, making run (1 minute or less), going back into grid), no errors will show up on DIC.
I could repeat this as many times as I want, with no problems ?
When we want to go home, we remount the street wheels/tires (with activated TPMS), and drive home.
I guess this is why I have not encountered any problems so far this year (8 events so far).
But... if I wanted to do any track days, I would possibly encounter an error, if I went longer than the 30 minutes.
Does this all make sense ? Or am I completely confused and wrong ????
Here's a quote from BEZ06 (the forum authority on TPMS), from 2015...
Originally Posted by BEZ06
Actually, I could run with no sensors at all in my 2006 on roadcourse track events (at HPDE type events I rarely run sessions longer than 30 minutes), and my 2006 Z06 can run for 60 minutes with no sensors in any of the wheels before getting any AH intervention. After that period of time I can't go into Comp mode or turn AH off completely, and if AH was in Comp or off it would automatically come back full on at the end of that time period, and in a very obtrusive manner that keeps you from cornering aggressively and pulls power in turns.
With no sensors, the 2005 and 2006 C6 can run for 60 minutes before you get the "Service Tire Monitor" message and possible limp mode.
The 2007 and 2008 are 30 minutes, and the 2009-2013 run only 20 minutes before you get DIC messages and AH intervention.
That's for one ignition cycle - after the period of time is up you can shut down, restart, clear DIC alerts, and you should have another time period again.
Obviously those times shouldn't affect a drag racer - you probably won't exceed even 20 minutes from engine start to completing your run.
But with track day events on roadcourse type tracks where you're running 25 or 30 minute sessions, the 2007 or newer could well have problems before the end of a session.
With no sensors, the 2005 and 2006 C6 can run for 60 minutes before you get the "Service Tire Monitor" message and possible limp mode.
The 2007 and 2008 are 30 minutes, and the 2009-2013 run only 20 minutes before you get DIC messages and AH intervention.
That's for one ignition cycle - after the period of time is up you can shut down, restart, clear DIC alerts, and you should have another time period again.
Obviously those times shouldn't affect a drag racer - you probably won't exceed even 20 minutes from engine start to completing your run.
But with track day events on roadcourse type tracks where you're running 25 or 30 minute sessions, the 2007 or newer could well have problems before the end of a session.
I have my street wheels/tires and their TPMS have been programmed.
All seems well when I drive to car to/from events.
At an event, we change to our autocross wheels/tires.
These have TPMS but I do NOT program them.
As the car is sitting in the pit/paddock area, the street TPMS are transmitting
every hour. Since the car is near these wheels/tires, I expect the car is receiving the signals.
Start car, proceed out to the course, put it in grid, turn car off.
When it is my turn to go, start car (so now that 30 minute time BEZ06 refers to would commence). Get car ready, make run, bring car back into grid for next run, turn car off.
Repeat.
So the 30 minute time limit would restart every time I start the car (I guess).
Since I have not driven the car more than 30 minutes during these runs, (probably 5 minutes at worst, between starting, putting car into TH/AH Off modes, proceeding up to start line, making run (1 minute or less), going back into grid), no errors will show up on DIC.
I could repeat this as many times as I want, with no problems ?
When we want to go home, we remount the street wheels/tires (with activated TPMS), and drive home.
I guess this is why I have not encountered any problems so far this year (8 events so far).
But... if I wanted to do any track days, I would possibly encounter an error, if I went longer than the 30 minutes.
Does this all make sense ? Or am I completely confused and wrong ????
#16
Team Owner
It should work. I've driven 3+ months with no TPMS in my tires without an error or code. Factory wheels in garage, park next to them so it syncs up every once and while.
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
A problem I envision with the PVC pipe trick, and with merely parking next to the street wheels with sensors.....
The computer will not read/accept the sensor transmission if the car is not turned on.
A Track Day.
Sensors in PVC pipe or in street wheels.
Stop car, change wheels/tires.
Now... when do the sensors in the PVC pipe (or static street wheels) transmit ?
Based on BEZ06 info, they transmit every hour when they are not rotating.
Now, even if the sensors in the PVC pipe or street wheels does transmit,
if the car is not on, it doesn't receive those signals.
How long will the car run un-molested until it gets a signal ..
if earlier than 2008, then you have up to 60 minutes before the computer gets pissed.
If a 2008 (my case), it will be 30 minutes.
If after 2008, it will be 20 minutes.
So now lets drive it.
You have either 20, or 30, or 60 minutes (depending on the year) with no signal....
any more than that, BINGO, computer gets pissed.
So... to stop this from happening.... turn the car off BEFORE your 20 or 30 or 60 minutes
passes.
If the computer should put you into limp mode (as per BEZ06 info),
you can turn car off, turn it back on, reset/clear all the DIC messages,
then you have another 20 or 30 or 60 minutes again.
If you have NOT gone into limp mode yet, merely turn car off before it does go
into limp mode, then when you restart it, you have another 20 or 30 or 60 minutes again.
I think I understand how all this works... I think I have explained it all somewhat
correctly.
I would love for Bob (BEZ06) to chime in here and confirm/correct my info.
The computer will not read/accept the sensor transmission if the car is not turned on.
A Track Day.
Sensors in PVC pipe or in street wheels.
Stop car, change wheels/tires.
Now... when do the sensors in the PVC pipe (or static street wheels) transmit ?
Based on BEZ06 info, they transmit every hour when they are not rotating.
Now, even if the sensors in the PVC pipe or street wheels does transmit,
if the car is not on, it doesn't receive those signals.
How long will the car run un-molested until it gets a signal ..
if earlier than 2008, then you have up to 60 minutes before the computer gets pissed.
If a 2008 (my case), it will be 30 minutes.
If after 2008, it will be 20 minutes.
So now lets drive it.
You have either 20, or 30, or 60 minutes (depending on the year) with no signal....
any more than that, BINGO, computer gets pissed.
So... to stop this from happening.... turn the car off BEFORE your 20 or 30 or 60 minutes
passes.
If the computer should put you into limp mode (as per BEZ06 info),
you can turn car off, turn it back on, reset/clear all the DIC messages,
then you have another 20 or 30 or 60 minutes again.
If you have NOT gone into limp mode yet, merely turn car off before it does go
into limp mode, then when you restart it, you have another 20 or 30 or 60 minutes again.
I think I understand how all this works... I think I have explained it all somewhat
correctly.
I would love for Bob (BEZ06) to chime in here and confirm/correct my info.
#19
Team Owner
Different years react different.
In this case, I would just mail the BCM out to get the TPMS removed.
In this case, I would just mail the BCM out to get the TPMS removed.
The following users liked this post:
J88L98IROCZ (06-20-2020)
#20
Safety Car
A problem I envision with the PVC pipe trick, and with merely parking next to the street wheels with sensors.....
The computer will not read/accept the sensor transmission if the car is not turned on.
A Track Day.
Sensors in PVC pipe or in street wheels.
Stop car, change wheels/tires.
Now... when do the sensors in the PVC pipe (or static street wheels) transmit ?
Based on BEZ06 info, they transmit every hour when they are not rotating.
Now, even if the sensors in the PVC pipe or street wheels does transmit,
if the car is not on, it doesn't receive those signals.
How long will the car run un-molested until it gets a signal ..
if earlier than 2008, then you have up to 60 minutes before the computer gets pissed.
If a 2008 (my case), it will be 30 minutes.
If after 2008, it will be 20 minutes.
So now lets drive it.
You have either 20, or 30, or 60 minutes (depending on the year) with no signal....
any more than that, BINGO, computer gets pissed.
So... to stop this from happening.... turn the car off BEFORE your 20 or 30 or 60 minutes
passes.
If the computer should put you into limp mode (as per BEZ06 info),
you can turn car off, turn it back on, reset/clear all the DIC messages,
then you have another 20 or 30 or 60 minutes again.
If you have NOT gone into limp mode yet, merely turn car off before it does go
into limp mode, then when you restart it, you have another 20 or 30 or 60 minutes again.
I think I understand how all this works... I think I have explained it all somewhat
correctly.
I would love for Bob (BEZ06) to chime in here and confirm/correct my info.
The computer will not read/accept the sensor transmission if the car is not turned on.
A Track Day.
Sensors in PVC pipe or in street wheels.
Stop car, change wheels/tires.
Now... when do the sensors in the PVC pipe (or static street wheels) transmit ?
Based on BEZ06 info, they transmit every hour when they are not rotating.
Now, even if the sensors in the PVC pipe or street wheels does transmit,
if the car is not on, it doesn't receive those signals.
How long will the car run un-molested until it gets a signal ..
if earlier than 2008, then you have up to 60 minutes before the computer gets pissed.
If a 2008 (my case), it will be 30 minutes.
If after 2008, it will be 20 minutes.
So now lets drive it.
You have either 20, or 30, or 60 minutes (depending on the year) with no signal....
any more than that, BINGO, computer gets pissed.
So... to stop this from happening.... turn the car off BEFORE your 20 or 30 or 60 minutes
passes.
If the computer should put you into limp mode (as per BEZ06 info),
you can turn car off, turn it back on, reset/clear all the DIC messages,
then you have another 20 or 30 or 60 minutes again.
If you have NOT gone into limp mode yet, merely turn car off before it does go
into limp mode, then when you restart it, you have another 20 or 30 or 60 minutes again.
I think I understand how all this works... I think I have explained it all somewhat
correctly.
I would love for Bob (BEZ06) to chime in here and confirm/correct my info.
Last edited by irok; 06-09-2017 at 08:41 AM.