2010 corvette A6 sluggish on the bottom end
04-27-2019, 02:48 PM
#1
2010 corvette A6 sluggish on the bottom end
It’s all stock nothing done. Driving around town playing and enjoying the pretty day if I nail it it just seems dead or big delay from a stop I know auto it does that and might have a lot to do with factory tune Will this change once it’s tuned and will it wake up and be the best it’s capable of?
04-28-2019, 01:24 PM
#3
04-28-2019, 02:57 PM
#4
Supporting Vendor
It’s all stock nothing done. Driving around town playing and enjoying the pretty day if I nail it it just seems dead or big delay from a stop I know auto it does that and might have a lot to do with factory tune Will this change once it’s tuned and will it wake up and be the best it’s capable of?
The underlying cause is due to the PCM pulling out a ton of spark timing when you floor it from a dead stop. Basically what happens is when the throttle opens quickly you get a ton of extra air coming in and the computer thinks it's gonna cause engine knock so it pulls the timing to protect the engine.
My friend just took his 2010 to the track for the first time and in the HP Tuners scans it shows the timing dropping all the way down from 20 degrees to something like negative 8 before it eventually starts to recover.
Once the tuner identifies the portion of the tune where the timing should be added, the trick to doing it safely is to only add a couple of degrees at a time to make sure you aren't getting any real knock.
If done correctly you should be able to light up the tires from a dead stop pretty easily.
04-28-2019, 04:59 PM
#5
That’s what I am wanting. Wanting the car to feel like a real sports car. But I do get it being protected and safe and not causing issues
This should be an easy if you can find a tuner who knows what they're doing.
The underlying cause is due to the PCM pulling out a ton of spark timing when you floor it from a dead stop. Basically what happens is when the throttle opens quickly you get a ton of extra air coming in and the computer thinks it's gonna cause engine knock so it pulls the timing to protect the engine.
My friend just took his 2010 to the track for the first time and in the HP Tuners scans it shows the timing dropping all the way down from 20 degrees to something like negative 8 before it eventually starts to recover.
Once the tuner identifies the portion of the tune where the timing should be added, the trick to doing it safely is to only add a couple of degrees at a time to make sure you aren't getting any real knock.
If done correctly you should be able to light up the tires from a dead stop pretty easily.
The underlying cause is due to the PCM pulling out a ton of spark timing when you floor it from a dead stop. Basically what happens is when the throttle opens quickly you get a ton of extra air coming in and the computer thinks it's gonna cause engine knock so it pulls the timing to protect the engine.
My friend just took his 2010 to the track for the first time and in the HP Tuners scans it shows the timing dropping all the way down from 20 degrees to something like negative 8 before it eventually starts to recover.
Once the tuner identifies the portion of the tune where the timing should be added, the trick to doing it safely is to only add a couple of degrees at a time to make sure you aren't getting any real knock.
If done correctly you should be able to light up the tires from a dead stop pretty easily.
04-28-2019, 06:01 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
It’s all stock nothing done. Driving around town playing and enjoying the pretty day if I nail it it just seems dead or big delay from a stop I know auto it does that and might have a lot to do with factory tune Will this change once it’s tuned and will it wake up and be the best it’s capable of?
The computer dials back power.
04-29-2019, 01:33 AM
#7
Perfect. Well hope with in a couple months I will be buying parts and getting things ready to tune and put together. Can’t wait
05-02-2019, 07:29 AM
#8
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '08
The learning curve for picking the tune and the parts is pretty steep as you are finding out. Pick the shop to do the work instead. Houston is the Corvette performance capital of the world. There are a number of shops in that general area that are well know for Corvette tuning and performance work. They can do a very worthwhile tune on your auto tranny Corvette right now that will make you smile. And then do your parts install and tune later. (tune maybe free). Find the right shop, the rest will take care of itself.
07-19-2019, 11:45 AM
#9
It’s all stock nothing done. Driving around town playing and enjoying the pretty day if I nail it it just seems dead or big delay from a stop I know auto it does that and might have a lot to do with factory tune Will this change once it’s tuned and will it wake up and be the best it’s capable of?
I was getting random misfire codes which have gone away but, the car feels very sluggish specially of the line
07-19-2019, 11:56 AM
#10
This should be an easy if you can find a tuner who knows what they're doing.
The underlying cause is due to the PCM pulling out a ton of spark timing when you floor it from a dead stop. Basically what happens is when the throttle opens quickly you get a ton of extra air coming in and the computer thinks it's gonna cause engine knock so it pulls the timing to protect the engine.
My friend just took his 2010 to the track for the first time and in the HP Tuners scans it shows the timing dropping all the way down from 20 degrees to something like negative 8 before it eventually starts to recover.
Once the tuner identifies the portion of the tune where the timing should be added, the trick to doing it safely is to only add a couple of degrees at a time to make sure you aren't getting any real knock.
If done correctly you should be able to light up the tires from a dead stop pretty easily.
The underlying cause is due to the PCM pulling out a ton of spark timing when you floor it from a dead stop. Basically what happens is when the throttle opens quickly you get a ton of extra air coming in and the computer thinks it's gonna cause engine knock so it pulls the timing to protect the engine.
My friend just took his 2010 to the track for the first time and in the HP Tuners scans it shows the timing dropping all the way down from 20 degrees to something like negative 8 before it eventually starts to recover.
Once the tuner identifies the portion of the tune where the timing should be added, the trick to doing it safely is to only add a couple of degrees at a time to make sure you aren't getting any real knock.
If done correctly you should be able to light up the tires from a dead stop pretty easily.
Car very slow off the line and seems better after 3k rpm. I will have to find a shop here in Vancouver that I can trust to look into your recommendation
Cheers!
07-20-2019, 05:05 AM
#11
No I have not yet. Hope to have it done soon.
07-20-2019, 05:14 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
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Guys, READ THE MANUAL!
I have a 2011 GS and what happens when it's in Auto mode, the car STARTS OUT IN 2ND GEAR to avoid wheelspin!!
Put it in sport mode, and use the paddles to shift. Start out in 1st and then nail it, the world instantly comes alive and the entire car becomes a true sports car.
I have a 2011 GS and what happens when it's in Auto mode, the car STARTS OUT IN 2ND GEAR to avoid wheelspin!!
Put it in sport mode, and use the paddles to shift. Start out in 1st and then nail it, the world instantly comes alive and the entire car becomes a true sports car.
07-20-2019, 02:51 PM
#13
Thanks for the info. I actually tried that as well. There is something really wrong. Seems to be an issue between 1-2k rpm. I even heard noisy valves and some backfiring. The power seems ok after 3k rpm. The funny thing is that it seems fine when cold. Yesterday, I got the flashing engine light along with the service handling messages which went away.
I am going to try a new MAF today after work and will see if it helps!
Note: tech tool shows random misfires so, unable to track it down. Already tried new plugs, wires. Tried swapping coils and fuel injectors too
I am going to try a new MAF today after work and will see if it helps!
Note: tech tool shows random misfires so, unable to track it down. Already tried new plugs, wires. Tried swapping coils and fuel injectors too
Last edited by Hitesh Sonegra; 07-20-2019 at 02:59 PM.
07-20-2019, 03:29 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
I recently had mine Tuned by AMP in the DFW area and with the only mods being a Haltech CAI and exhaust it put down 405rwhp/ 408rwtq but the tranny being tuned is what I noticed most it been a very fun car to drive now just debating on which cam
to install along with the Yank converter looking for high 10s in the 1/4 and a solid roll race occasional car lol
to install along with the Yank converter looking for high 10s in the 1/4 and a solid roll race occasional car lol
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07-21-2019, 06:44 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
Guys, READ THE MANUAL!
I have a 2011 GS and what happens when it's in Auto mode, the car STARTS OUT IN 2ND GEAR to avoid wheelspin!!
Put it in sport mode, and use the paddles to shift. Start out in 1st and then nail it, the world instantly comes alive and the entire car becomes a true sports car.
I have a 2011 GS and what happens when it's in Auto mode, the car STARTS OUT IN 2ND GEAR to avoid wheelspin!!
Put it in sport mode, and use the paddles to shift. Start out in 1st and then nail it, the world instantly comes alive and the entire car becomes a true sports car.
Last edited by phils C5 vette; 07-29-2019 at 10:10 PM.
