mfinocc

Has anyone install their own cam? How was it? Any step by steps you'd like to share? Would you do it again or pay someone? Looking at the Comp XR265HR 0.522/0.529 212/218 Any words of advice?

HITMAN99

If you have not done one before with some assistance, or watched an install from beginning to end, I would not tackle it on your own. Check out install university for step by step instructions (sorry, I don't have a link).

Also, your cam choice is very mild, even for an LS1. For an LS2, a comparable "stealthy" cam might be a 218/224 .550". Your cam choice should also be dependent on your other mods. Will you be installing LT headers or not? M6, A6, or A4? Stock gears, or aftermarket?

mfinocc

I am also install American Racing LT headers w/hi-flow cats/x-pipe and a Vararam CAI. Undecided on a FAST LSX intake manifold. I have rebuilt a few motors in the past, but I removed them from the car. What other cam would you recommend?

CYA-Vett

It's not bad at all. Do not pay someone to do it.
Give me your email address, I have directions I made up.

Dave

P-Colavette

I just installed a Futral Motorsports custom grind, .595/.587 lift on 230/232 duration, on a 112 LSA with a 4 deg. adv. and this is not an outrageous spec cam for the LS2, It does sound wicked.. my car is a Z51 mn6.



Steve.

revo1059

I'd like those if you are willing to share!

vtach3743@speakeasy.net

andreas g.

Unless you're a very good wrench and have ALL the necessary equipment. Lift etc. I would reconsider doing it youself. Cam swaps are a bitch in these C5and C6's. You don't want to be laying on your back pulling out the rack and pinion on your chest, making sure you don't cut the air bag wire in the steering column ($900) dealer replacement.Then out with the radiator, pully, oil pump,( don't cut the O ring on the pick up or **** it to one side or you'll have zero oil pressure. And you wount know that until you start it up and then have to pull it apart again to replace the blue oil ring.Then it's off to the valve train, Remove the rockers , pull the push rods , spin the motor to locate the lifters in the plastic retainers. and in a timely fashion R&R the cam so one of those pesky lifter doesn't decided to ruin your day by falling down back into the motor. After that simply R&R the valve springs that match the cam,and there you have it. Put it all back together and your done. I'm not trying to bash the job , but know what you're getting into before you start. I'm sure that guys have done this job at home, and believe me they had the knowledge, patience, and equipment to do it right.
Over the years I've built many motor in my garage and I just don't want to do it anymore. I've watched two cam swaps done on my C6 By A&A corvette and these guys are the best, and do it for a living everyday and it still takes them a day and a half. Anyway my opinion for what it's worth. So, If you got need, go for it and good luck!

andreas g.

EuroRod

The October issue of Corvette Magazine has a pictorial writeup for an LS2 cam swap. It's vary comprehensive. It's not rocket science. Get this issue and read the article. You can then judge if you can accomplish this work.



ps.... You can!

CYA-Vett

I couldn't disagree more. I had these same feelings back when I had my C5. I took it to get tuned at a reputable shop here on the east coast. Aside from the guy tuning the car, the techs were a bunch of $10/hour uninspired guys. No way was I going to let my baby with them for a few days. No one on this planet can do a cam swap better than anyone else, sure they may be able to do it quicker, but not better. These guys swap tons of cams a year, your swap is just another job to them, attention to detail is not as great as it is when I or you do it.

A lift is of little value during a cam swap, I've done 4 with a lift and about 15 without. It was no quicker or better, for me at least.

The job is certaintly easier with all of the correct tools but people have been swapping LS cams for a long time with makeshift tools. Just check out ls1tech.com, those guys can swap a cam with pliers and duct tape

Anyway, I agree it is not for everyone, I just think if you take your time it's not a big deal. I was afraid to do my own, now I've done all my friends and some of thier friends. The worst part about the swap is knowing your working on a $50,000 car, once you get by that, it's not a big deal...

Don't be afraid..If you get stuck give me a call, I'll be tech support

Dave

SteveDoten

I've done one, much tighter quarters when dealing w/ the rack, otherwise the LS2 is the same as the LS1 with the addition of the cam sensor on the front cover

bojan

How much do licence mechanic charge for cam install aprox?

mfinocc

Dave,

Thanks for the help! mfinocc@aol.com

mfinocc

EuroRod,

Thanks for the tip! Picked it up today and didn't even know the article was in there yet.

mfinocc

Dave,

Thanks for the offer, I may be contacting you when I get into it.

Blue02Z06

Thanks to Dave (CYA Vett) i started my head/cam install this morning and am making great progress. Today i got the intake mani off, the rack out, radiator out, and got the dreaded pulley bolt out.

Tomorrow ill be tackling getting the heads/headers off and doing the necessary cleaning. Hopefullly ill be able to start puting her back together tomorrow night.

Thanks again CYA-Vett

Dave

CYA-Vett

You have it made by doing the heads at the same time, you can pull the lifters and your heads already have new springs. Your swap will be breeze...Make sure you spend a good chunk of time cleaning the block (especially the bolt holes) before you bolt the new heads on
Give me a buzz if you run into any issues...

Dave

Blue02Z06

I have a buddy coming over tomorrow night to have a "block cleaning party" so it will be good to have someone else there to check over my work. Ill be honest, its a pretty intimidating install but what ive realized is that its just time consuming. Everything is very straight forward but it just takes patience to get it all done correctly. I never would have thought in a million years i could do this install by myself, im glad you convinced me to prove myself wrong.

Ill shoot you an email tomorrow night and let you know how everything goes getting her buttoned up.

Dave

cmb13

wow! blue02 - keep us posted!

Zig

i didn't see anyone mention 'degreeing' the cam.


"The term "Degreeing In Your Camshaft" means you are making sure the camshaft's position in the engine coincides with that of the crankshaft, so that their rotation is synchronized. This is the only way you will know if the rise and fall of the pistons properly matches the opening and closing of the valves, so the engine will run properly. A few degrees of misalignment can affect the engine's operation dramatically. "


http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=3

"As gearheads, we have the uncanny ability to recite a string of cam grinds in a single breath, and we're especially proud of the fact that we can burn an entire afternoon bench racing without even breaking a sweat. Heck, a true gearhead would look forward to a weekend engine and transmission swap. Yet, would you be surprised if we told you that the majority of these same gearheads don't know how to properly degree a cam?
The purpose of degreeing a cam is to make certain that it's phased correctly with the crankshaft, along with ensuring that the cam matches the specs on your cam card. Unfortunately, the average do-it-yourselfer's idea of "degreeing" a cam usually consists of lining up the dots on the timing gears and calling it a day. While that does work, if you're going to all the work to install the cam, it's worth spending the extra time to know that the cam is installed accurately.

Don't fret, all you need are a few inexpensive specialty tools and a little patience ..."


http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0310_deg/

HITMAN99

Zig, in your experience, what are some of the specialty tools that you might recommend to a novice installer, to help with degreeing the cam? I know what it says in the article, just wondering if you have any favorites. Also, which degreeing method do you suggest, and why?