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What it means is that when the ECM detects operating temps that are much over 200 degrees, it starts cutting back on timing to reduce the risk of preignition and pinging. This seems to be expecially true for C6's. This timing retard reduces power. Track and dyno results show that optimal power is usually achieved around 185-190 degrees.
What's the benefit???drawbacks???I'm not crazy about those,and I heard somewhere that they turn the oil to sludge in a hurry!!
There are specific Spark Timing and Fueling tables in the ECU that are ECT ( engine coolant temp ) Dependent. Basically there are many times where if ECT > 200 degrees timing is pulled back to a large degree. I have been using HPTuners and see many of these temp dependent timing retards.
I would go for the 160 degree. The car will then run in the 180 degree range
Once the thermostat opens - it's open. How does a lower initial opening temp change the running temp?
Thanks.
It takes time to cool. Earlier open lets it cool faster. If you are asking because you dont beleive it runs cooler thats easy to demonstrate. My car runs at 176 moving and 192 at idle.
These running temps pull no timing. The stocker at 230 it pulls 4 degrees under load. 212 is where the freak show begins.
Beating on it regularly, I rarely see over 200 and that is only in the summer at a traffic light.
While engineers will readily state the design of an aluminum block motor likes heat soak, there are rarely textbook examples of anything in life. The software engineers got to the car and used the tuning to counter any benefit there would be from heat expansion/soak.
Your oil will not turn to sludge by running a cooler thermostat, as you will still find that your oil temps will climb above 200F when driving hard. Even if your oil temps stayed below 180F you would not get a buildup of sludge as long as you don't do tons of short trips.
Simply adjusting the fans will make a big difference in the temperature that your car operates. Mine has the stock stat and the fan settings tuned. As you can see by the below graph the temps stay very consistent. I rarely see over 200* and it normally runs right at 195*.
The below graph is over a 20 minute time span with four WOT runs. Also notice there is around 10 minutes of traveling at less than 15 mph without an increase in ECT.
I included the intake air temperature to give an idea of the weather conditions. It was roughly 85* at the start of the run, cooling to around 76* by the end.
I know I didn't answer your question but I hope you find this extra information helpful.
It takes time to cool. Earlier open lets it cool faster. If you are asking because you dont beleive it runs cooler thats easy to demonstrate. My car runs at 176 moving and 192 at idle.
These running temps pull no timing. The stocker at 230 it pulls 4 degrees under load. 212 is where the freak show begins.
Beating on it regularly, I rarely see over 200 and that is only in the summer at a traffic light.
While engineers will readily state the design of an aluminum block motor likes heat soak, there are rarely textbook examples of anything in life. The software engineers got to the car and used the tuning to counter any benefit there would be from heat expansion/soak.
IMO, the engineers try to get the last bit of engine efficiency = (better MPG) with a hotter block, but power suffers on a stock cooling system LSX as a result. My experience has been that low 180s is the sweet spot for most NA LSXs and with a 160 stat and proper fan operation they run in the low 180s with the 160 stat.