That is a very strange diagnosis, my car starts just fine with the door open. I wonder if they are having trouble seeing the codes or communicating with some of the modules since the Tech II can only read some of them in the ignition on state? The reason I say this is when I took mine in for an EBCM problem the tech couldn't read the codes. Luckily I was with him and politely suggested that he try it with the ignition on (something I had learned while scanning the modules with EASE). Once the ignition was on and not in acc. mode it worked fine. This beat his suggestion of manually tracing out all of the circuits since he couldn't see the code.

Did they ever check the clutch switch? I think that it is around step two or three on the chart for troubleshooting the problem you are having.

BTW: you can get the car in ignition on engine off mode by holding the bottom of the start switch for around 10 seconds.

Hopefully they will find the problem.

 

Coincidentally, when I need to get my car in "ignition on engine off mode for tuning" (in other words, when I want it to do what Jeff's car is doing), I just push the green start button without pushing the clutch. Which is why Brett and I keep sniffing around that clutch starter interlock switch.

 

Brett and Joe

You both seem to be coming back to the clutch switch. I'll call them early today, around 7:30 and ask that they humor an old man and either check or outright replace the clutch switch. You know the old say about an ounce of prevention............

Again, thanks for perservering with me and this "stupid" problem that is preventing me from driving and fully enjoying my vette. Joe knows my car and has seen it in action. Brett, take a look at my sig to see what I've built.

Again, guys, thanks.

Jeff

 

Spoke to the shop and they claim they have checked the clutch switch several times with the Tech2 and it is communicating as designed. I guess we'll see.

 

reading that the engine cranked but wouldn't start,but starts sometimes,check the CRANK SENSOR.

 

Engine didn't crank at all.

 

With all the tuners (people) on here and all the tools available, is there a "flow chart" somewhere that shows all the criteria that has to be met for it to start?

 

Do you have a Window Valet in your car?

I have had two similar no start/no nothing problems recently with my '07 automatic coupe and my '07 Z06. The coupe got flat bedded to the dealer. When it happened to the Z, I was a little smarter. In both cases, when we un-plugged the 'window valet' module from the port under the steering column, the car 'lit up' and cranked as normal. For right now, I am running without the Window Valet to see if the problem is really gone.

Good luck

 

I had this same problem with my Window Valet recently! Shoot why didn't I think of that. The Pres. of Window Valet sent me a new one, it failed, then he made me a test kit to test my OBDII port and turns out my OBDII port female recepticles had gotten a little "wallowed out" and were not providing a good connection for the Valet causing this problem. I ended up bending 2 pins on my Valet very slightly and tightening up my car's ports and its been fine ever since. I suspect my car's ports got a little wallowed out from the number of tunes I've done lately.

Jeff, I'm suspecting you don't have a WV, because if you did, the minute you unplugged it the car would be fine.

Jeff, sorry for the hijack but Dollarbill, you might try these instructions:


For the car's connector (see picture at http://www.obdii.com/connector.html ):

1) In DC volts mode, measure the voltage between pins 4 and 5. 0 VOLTS is what you want to see.

2) In DC volts mode, measure the voltage between pins 5 and 16. 12 VOLTS is what you want to see.

3) If step 1 measured 0 volts, switch to ohms or continuity mode and measure the resistance between pins 4 and 5. 0 OHMS is what you want to see.

4) Visually, can you perceive a difference between pin 2, 4, and 5? (I.e.., is pin 5 recessed deeper into the connector housing, or is the receptacle wider so that a terminal may fit loosely, or is it subtly a different color?)

If step 1 was 0v and
step 2 was about 12v (11v to 13v ok) and
step 3 was about 0 ohms or at least less than 5 ohms, then...
with a small needle nose pliers, slightly bend or slightly twist pin 5 (the "middle" pin) on the Window Valet so that it may fit more tightly into the car's connector.

This is how I fixed my Window Valet.

 

Basically B+ is supplied via the ECM fuse to the clutch switch. It then travels to the crank relay which controls the B+ to the starter. B- for the crank relay comes from the ECM. You can check if the ECM is sending the Crank Request Signal (B- on wire 625 YE/BK) via a Tech II or EASE.

So if you are getting B+ to the crank relay from the clutch switch and B- from the ECM the only thing left would be the crank relay in the under hood fuse block or a loose connection at one of these points.

All of the above is only for the manual tranny cars. The automatics have a lot more safety checks before starting (brake sensor, PND switch, etc.).

 

Wow , very nice. I watched the video in your sig; are you sure they aren't just keeping it so they can drive it? kidding of course

 

well, just picked up the vette. Started fine, drove it home. went out for dinner----------car wouldn't start----------same symptoms!!!

So far they've replace the BCM, brake sensor unit and the door lock sensor unit=$1500.

I'm going crazy.

Here are the codes they found with the latest round yesterday and today:
C0161 - ABS/TCS Brake Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0801 - Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction
P0121 - TP Sensor Circuit Insufficient Activity
U1017 - Loss of serial communications for class 2 devices

They also found B2356 and B2366, something to do with the seats, couldn't find them on the OBD listing I have.

Car goes back tomorrow and I'm going to insist they do the clutch switch.

anyone have any suggestions?

HELP

 

wow,it is an excellant video!

 

 

Jeff, how did you get the car home? Did it finally start? Anything we can learn from this?

 

Just sent you and Rog an email. I'll send you a PM on the start process. I'm so frustrated, it's a good thing my MD increased my blood pressure meds.

 

pm sent with some suggestions.

It sounds like they went on a wild goose chase after seeing the codes that are unrelated to the starting issue.

 

Jeff any resolution??

 

Wound up with a simple fix, the clutch switch!!!!!! After all of the CF folks pointing that way I forced the dealer to replace it. The frigging $14 part and 1 hour of labor did the trick. That was after $1500 of, "well, we think we found the problem."

Good thing I have Geico Mechanical Breakdown insurance. Hopefully all I'll be out is the $250 deductible.

 

Well, that's good news that it's fixed!!!

For the record I called it in post 2..