TRACTIONMONSTER part of the solution
01-26-2008, 07:10 PM
#41
Safety Car
If you get 15k miles from them, that will be awesome. Twice the daily driver mileage I got from Nitto DRs. At 8k off they came and I'd sell them to track only guys.
Have you had a chance to test them?
No, but Toyo, the same company that makes Nitto tires, has exactly the tire you are lloking for: the brand new R888.
Comes in a 295/30-19 and goes right on your 19x10 oem rim. It is a newer and better tire than the RII and the Proxes RA-1.
Comes in a 295/30-19 and goes right on your 19x10 oem rim. It is a newer and better tire than the RII and the Proxes RA-1.
01-26-2008, 07:26 PM
#42
Pro
I'll post up some pics and info on the LPE shock brackets when I get home in a few hours.
I'm sure you're not hitting the control arm by much. You gained 4mm clearance over my 19" widened wheels but lost some by going to the 18" dia. wheel. I could add a 1 mm spacer (.040) and clear my control arm with stock shocks. How much do you think it would take to clear on your setup. I've thought about measuring all the angles and doing the trig to see how much wheel diameter affects control arm clearance I just haven't got that bored yet
01-26-2008, 07:40 PM
#43
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Sounds good to me-
When you say stock rim I suppose you mean a 8.5" wide rim. Not many choices.
MT has a 245 and a 265 for an 18" near ther 8.5" wide range.
As far as Nitto and MT tires there are so many different models. I assume you mean hook in a straight line and not for handling or safe everyday driving. Those are drag radials and not for sustained high speed running 80+.
If you are willing to buy a front rim why not spend the 450 from there and make a real tire fit?
MT has a 245 and a 265 for an 18" near ther 8.5" wide range.
As far as Nitto and MT tires there are so many different models. I assume you mean hook in a straight line and not for handling or safe everyday driving. Those are drag radials and not for sustained high speed running 80+.
If you are willing to buy a front rim why not spend the 450 from there and make a real tire fit?
Good advice and thanks again.
01-26-2008, 08:25 PM
#44
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '06-'09
Is there any room left for My reply???
Damn,Guy,..that's exactly what I would've written!!!
I have over 511RWHP{with more to come},and for that reason,I just purchased an "extra" set of rear wheels!
Same i-forged,essen's,but in a 18x12 size.
I'll probably go with the same Nittos' You mentioned,until the M/T 345/35/18 comes out in a few months!
The BFG drag radial in a 345 size is another choice for Me!
I'll use the drag tires when I'm at the track,or going to a GTG.
For all other times,I'll use the Pirelli's I currently use.
I can wait to see how My Vette feels with some traction!
Thanks,George
Damn,Guy,..that's exactly what I would've written!!!
I have over 511RWHP{with more to come},and for that reason,I just purchased an "extra" set of rear wheels!
Same i-forged,essen's,but in a 18x12 size.
I'll probably go with the same Nittos' You mentioned,until the M/T 345/35/18 comes out in a few months!
The BFG drag radial in a 345 size is another choice for Me!
I'll use the drag tires when I'm at the track,or going to a GTG.
For all other times,I'll use the Pirelli's I currently use.
I can wait to see how My Vette feels with some traction!
Thanks,George
01-26-2008, 09:13 PM
#46
Race Director
The V710 Kumho's come in a 345/35/18 that fit fine too. The 345 BFG's are awesome. My brother used the BFG's in many rear diff destructions on his chevelle. I cant convert him to the corvette. He calls me a sell out. He is really good looking though so I let it slide. He tries purposly to not do the things I do or wear the cloths I wear. Parents did that far too much to us.
01-26-2008, 09:13 PM
#47
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Thats them. Dont send them your center caps. I didnt get mine back yet.
In your case a 11" will work fine for a drag track. Let us know how the drag radials work on the track. If its a manual be aware that a prepped track and a drag radial with no side wall flex is a bad idea for rear diffs.
Be aware that you will need a set of pressure sensors and a program tool to run the tires on those wheels. If you delete the above to save some money and the car is away from the other set of sensors for any amount of time, the car will think it has 2 rear flats and limit your performance. Its 110 for 2 sensors shipped and 150 for the program tool shipped. The 260 bucks is the cost of doing business without a headache. Also be aware that running 20lbs air may also cause issues. Ask others who run drag radials about the set-up they use.
In your case a 11" will work fine for a drag track. Let us know how the drag radials work on the track. If its a manual be aware that a prepped track and a drag radial with no side wall flex is a bad idea for rear diffs.
Be aware that you will need a set of pressure sensors and a program tool to run the tires on those wheels. If you delete the above to save some money and the car is away from the other set of sensors for any amount of time, the car will think it has 2 rear flats and limit your performance. Its 110 for 2 sensors shipped and 150 for the program tool shipped. The 260 bucks is the cost of doing business without a headache. Also be aware that running 20lbs air may also cause issues. Ask others who run drag radials about the set-up they use.
Spin,
Thanks millions for all the knowlege, Thunder Racing is doing my Stage 4 Extreme DTE with 4.10's-also doing the DTE brace as well, as soon as the ole' tax refund check gets here, no way I'd be that cruel to the stock rearend. $260 is nothing for the decrease in the PITA factor-so roger that on the new sensors and tool.
Still a couple of mods away but should be ready for this summer in a big way. So far, 500 miles on the G5X3 and i'm lovin it!
01-26-2008, 09:44 PM
#48
Safety Car
I think your car is just afraid of what you'll do to it if it breaks....
Looks like we have to start finding me some rims to get the new power to the ground....we're going to be busy wrenching in the coming months buddy
Looks like we have to start finding me some rims to get the new power to the ground....we're going to be busy wrenching in the coming months buddy
01-26-2008, 09:50 PM
#49
Race Director
It's exactly 26.0 per Toyo. You put the 255/35-18 R888 on the front, which is 25.1, so your electronics are fine. This setup is good for those who want to keep the stock wheels, or who have to keep the stock wheels (which is required for example if you want to run SCCA stock class autocross or similar super stock competition).
Otherwise, I agree that 18s all around are the better way to go.
Otherwise, I agree that 18s all around are the better way to go.
01-26-2008, 09:55 PM
#50
Pro
Spin, Trust me I'm not overly worried about the control arm clearance. I'm in the process of mini-tubbing my car to run 12" rims and I'm trying to figure out how much more rim I can squeeze in there
Here's a picture of the LPE shock bracket. Stock is on the left.
Here's stock setup vs LPE
The bracket mounts the shock 1.125" higher which would make the suspension bottom out 1.125" higher. This can be fixed by running an LPE spec Koni Sport shock or Bilstein can modify their shocks with a 1.125" spacer. I'm not sure what shocks you're running so you might not want to go with the LPE brackets with stock shocks, especially if you don't really need them.
Here's a picture of the LPE shock bracket. Stock is on the left.
Here's stock setup vs LPE
The bracket mounts the shock 1.125" higher which would make the suspension bottom out 1.125" higher. This can be fixed by running an LPE spec Koni Sport shock or Bilstein can modify their shocks with a 1.125" spacer. I'm not sure what shocks you're running so you might not want to go with the LPE brackets with stock shocks, especially if you don't really need them.
01-26-2008, 10:47 PM
#51
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '06-'09
I've got a 2006 A6 with a newly built Unitrax differential.{3.15}
300m shaft on one side,Quaife on the other,and all the internals are hardened!
Should hold up according to Unitrax under even more RWHP than I got,so I'm not too worried about running drag radials!
300m shaft on one side,Quaife on the other,and all the internals are hardened!
Should hold up according to Unitrax under even more RWHP than I got,so I'm not too worried about running drag radials!
01-26-2008, 11:24 PM
#52
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Be aware that you will need a set of pressure sensors and a program tool to run the tires on those wheels. If you delete the above to save some money and the car is away from the other set of sensors for any amount of time, the car will think it has 2 rear flats and limit your performance. Its 110 for 2 sensors shipped and 150 for the program tool shipped. The 260 bucks is the cost of doing business without a headache. Also be aware that running 20lbs air may also cause issues. Ask others who run drag radials about the set-up they use.
btw-to be precise, running below 24 lbs will generate a low tire pressure warning on your DIC with sensors but wont limit performance either. On the opposite end, over 44 psi will register a high pressure DIC warning.
Last edited by siffert; 01-26-2008 at 11:34 PM.
01-26-2008, 11:49 PM
#53
Team Owner
I addressed that in one of the posts on this thread.
The stock wheels are among the lightest OEM wheels on any car. The widened wheel is 1 1/4 pounds heavier. The use of an 18 and the tire I selected for the rear replacing the heavy 19 and the heavier runflat saved a total of 16 pounds...8 per side.
As I said, there is no performance downside to what I did here. I probably picked up 5rwhp on a dyno from the unsprung weight savings alone.
The stock wheels are among the lightest OEM wheels on any car. The widened wheel is 1 1/4 pounds heavier. The use of an 18 and the tire I selected for the rear replacing the heavy 19 and the heavier runflat saved a total of 16 pounds...8 per side.
As I said, there is no performance downside to what I did here. I probably picked up 5rwhp on a dyno from the unsprung weight savings alone.
But that's all moot in this discussion because they won't match unless one were to spend even more money to get the front CCWs/non runflats (which WILL save even more weight and it's off the nose) as well.
01-26-2008, 11:57 PM
#54
Team Owner
I never bothered with extra sensors/tool with my BFG Drag Radials 2 on C5 Z06 17" wheels and a lot other drag racers dont either. For me (and I personally know a few others) have not had any problems running them without sensors. I have driven over 100 miles and "away" from my oem tires/wheel/sensors at home for over 5 hours, with no problems, no codes, nor limiting performance. Once back home, it would "synch" with the oems sitting there once again.
Last edited by LS1LT1; 01-27-2008 at 12:25 AM.
01-27-2008, 12:14 AM
#55
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That's what I wanted to know, I didn't get new sensors for my recently aquired drag radials/wheels yet and I won't have my tires with me at the track (75 miles away from home) when I go next time, is it really true that I may not go into some sort of reduced power mode without the sensors?
and back recently on the BFG's and then WOT racing around the farm country roads with no reduced power mode, no codes, yada, yada. I know Glennhl also has Nitto Drag Radials on Wagon Wheels and drove around town in AZ for a week, back and forth to work etc. and never got a code all week or loss of power. So dont worry...besides, even if you get caught with reduced power, I have no doubt you'll still cut sub 11.3's!!!!!
PS-what tire and wheel combo did you finally get?
Last edited by siffert; 01-27-2008 at 12:18 AM.
01-27-2008, 12:32 AM
#56
Team Owner
17x8.5" C5 magnesium fronts (very light) with M/T 275x40 DRs. I know that rim is a tiny bit too narrow for a 275 (9" - 9.5" is ideal) but it should still work fine for my limited rear wheel horsepower/stock convertered car.
01-27-2008, 01:00 AM
#57
Le Mans Master
Many things have been said about COW but when I wasnt paying attention (eating roast beef hero, mayo, salt...), he took my bottle and topped it off last time I was there. I put in my shifter there with a heated garage. At a 75 dry shot its about 30-40 3+4gear squeezes. He made my night. If anyone needs it, COW is a nitrous fill station.
I cant tell the max until the heat cycle and cool cycle is up on the tires tomorrow night but the traction is much improved.
The handling is out of this world! I was seeing effortless 1.05's tonight. The car maxes at that withOUT all kinds of tire noise and unpredictable behavior on runcraps. The handling will be the best part of this once the tires are properly heat cycled. It will be a long 24hrs now allowing them to cool. I was waiting for the butt to come around so many times and it just doesnt. Way cool. Bigger sway bar for the back?
I cant tell the max until the heat cycle and cool cycle is up on the tires tomorrow night but the traction is much improved.
The handling is out of this world! I was seeing effortless 1.05's tonight. The car maxes at that withOUT all kinds of tire noise and unpredictable behavior on runcraps. The handling will be the best part of this once the tires are properly heat cycled. It will be a long 24hrs now allowing them to cool. I was waiting for the butt to come around so many times and it just doesnt. Way cool. Bigger sway bar for the back?
Sounds like you had a great time.
Stiffing the back will make the front looser, I wouldn' t recommend changing anyting until you get to really push them and then remember the KISS principle.I think you are really going to enjoy the benefits of the lighter wheel/tire combo. Widening the stock rims makes sense as it is more reasonable than going with very expensive custom rims.
01-27-2008, 01:43 AM
#58
Le Mans Master
spin -
no im not the bling seeking type, i was just wondering, it was a logical question to ask if a company would produce a tire that people would buy. as for the widening i do favor this over aftermarket, one of my justifications for dumping runflats would be to reduce rotational mass.
whats the top speed of the 555RIIs? what is the speed limit of widened wheels (im assuming w/e the stock wheel can do) i dont do it all the time but i enjoy exploring 5th gear (i dont want anyone lecturing me on this, for every post i receive that is a critism and draws away from my question i swear to god i will increase my speed by 10mph and the duration time by 10 seconds)
the one nice thing about the stock tires is that they can go 186 mph
no im not the bling seeking type, i was just wondering, it was a logical question to ask if a company would produce a tire that people would buy. as for the widening i do favor this over aftermarket, one of my justifications for dumping runflats would be to reduce rotational mass.
whats the top speed of the 555RIIs? what is the speed limit of widened wheels (im assuming w/e the stock wheel can do) i dont do it all the time but i enjoy exploring 5th gear (i dont want anyone lecturing me on this, for every post i receive that is a critism and draws away from my question i swear to god i will increase my speed by 10mph and the duration time by 10 seconds)
the one nice thing about the stock tires is that they can go 186 mph
01-27-2008, 02:47 AM
#59
Le Mans Master
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Very nice post. I've been considering doing the same thing, except I want to run 305 width Michelin Pilot Sport PS2; any experience on those tires?
That and I want to powdercoat my rims black
That and I want to powdercoat my rims black
01-27-2008, 05:52 AM
#60
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The weakest part of the 2005 diff is the case. All the internals in the world will not help that. The DTE brace controls the break when it happens. It doesnt prevent it.
I know they arent fans of the 2004 diff transplant when the 2006 option is available but the 2005 diff case will break at the track with drag radials. I wish I had a nice meal everytime I said that to someone and it came to pass. Your power level, the tire, and a prepped track will produce a break. Tell Thunder Racing AND DTE what your plans are and they will likely make a different recomendation. I would call several tuners before you take anyone's word that a 2005 diff will handle it. The case is in no way strengthened in a stage anything. I would start a thread on the topic to get the general info and some experiences. I dont know any happy track guys with power and the 05 diff...unless its an auto.
See what is involved in them building and installing a 2006 rear diff for you with a transmission rear case swap. There has to be a tuner that is willing to do that swap for you with your intended application.
My 2005 has a stage 3 2004 Z06 diff and that is why it takes what it can.
I know they arent fans of the 2004 diff transplant when the 2006 option is available but the 2005 diff case will break at the track with drag radials. I wish I had a nice meal everytime I said that to someone and it came to pass. Your power level, the tire, and a prepped track will produce a break. Tell Thunder Racing AND DTE what your plans are and they will likely make a different recomendation. I would call several tuners before you take anyone's word that a 2005 diff will handle it. The case is in no way strengthened in a stage anything. I would start a thread on the topic to get the general info and some experiences. I dont know any happy track guys with power and the 05 diff...unless its an auto.
See what is involved in them building and installing a 2006 rear diff for you with a transmission rear case swap. There has to be a tuner that is willing to do that swap for you with your intended application.
My 2005 has a stage 3 2004 Z06 diff and that is why it takes what it can.
I DID tell them what I was intending to do with it-keep in mind that this wont be an every weekend strip car, but I do want it to live with the occasional weekend blast. You just saved me a couple thousand $'s. I will be calling around now.
Thank you!
Ya'll ever get down here to Louisiana-it's cold beer and crawfish on me!!
Last edited by JLINDSEY2; 01-27-2008 at 06:09 AM. Reason: forgot to add..