Evilways

Well, I made it to the track for a few passes on the new MT drag radials tonight and I know there are some of you who wanted the results on the tire, and I am disapointed right now, but will post anyways. I tried 22/20/18/17 psi , did good burnouts(drove past water box and backed in),and tried to vary the rpms at launch from 700rpm all the way to 13-1400 which was all the car would hold. My 60fts ranged from mid 1.9's to a best of 1.85, which was just .01 better than my best so far on the PS2s.I never got below 11.4's tonight, even with a switch to the PS2s later in the evening after the "issues" I had with the DRs. I'll explain...by the 1/8th , the car started "floating" right to left, violently, and AH kicked in three times. I have no explaination for this, info would be useful. I also had to "paddle" the tranny down once it shifted into 3rd because the first couple of runs I was shifting into 4th about 50-75 ft before the end of the 1/4....never happened before on street tires, I assume it had something to do with the gearing being changed by the wheel size (17inch). When I switched back to my 19inch PS2s on stock wheels, for the next two runs , the car continued to shift into 4th at the end of the track. I hope I didn't screw up a shift solenoid or something else. As the track cooled later int he evening from the day's 72 degree high, about mid track condensation caused alot of issues with not only my car but others getting almost completely sideways and having to lift.5-6 cars had lost it , but not hit the wall, but rather "parked" a few inches from it,across the lane until they could safely drive off. I was at almost a "9:00" pose one time...scary stuff, but I saved it and limped back around. I gave up the track tonight after what was to be a great run with a 640rwhp Cobra (whose owner was a cool guy, I had raced him a couple of times before and had great runs then as well), we were neck and neck, my car shifted into 3rd and immediately the tail came around. I let off quickly and saved the car again, but that was it for me. He ran 11.5 something...To sum it up, I think the DRs had more in them, as evidenced by the 11.4 @124.9MPH runs I made with them and the 1.85 60ft, but I'm not sure that it's worth the risk of AH not saving my butt when the car starts swaying violently again.

SoldSyclone

IMO and others I have talked to that psi is too low for our suspension.

24-26psi seems to work best but without enough power/converter I dont think you can improve your 60' over the ps2's.

I am an A6 too and with boltons only I get worse 60's 2.0's than with Runflats 1.9's, but on the N20 they work well 1.70-1.73.

What size tire and wheel are you running?

Is your car lowered?

My car goes straight and I leave at 1500-1600rpm after a good 1st gear burnot
295/35/18 BFG's on 18x8.5 stock fronts

Evilways

They're 17x9 4th gen f-body wheels and MT drs. I think I can get more out of the DRs ( in contrast to 24-26psi, the lower the psi for me, the better the 60ft and ET), but it's the swaying that concerns me. It's almost like the brakes were applying in a pattern from corner to corner, very mechanical, not like losing traction. You think that AH was screwing with the car for not sensing any tpms in the rears? I never got a code or anything.Someone did mention that the "speed sensors" may have kicked in with the tpms gone and stepped in . The car is only lowered as much as the stock bolts allow, no aftermarket lowering. The car did go arrow straight until the "swaying" kicked in after the 1/8th mile.

n77nxc

I had the same results and sold my set. I've gotten 1.92 60's on the base run flats. I had the same times on the ET's. Honestly, I don't think I am making enough power to justify them.

EDIT: The feel of the car on the top end was horrible. On one of my runs the car starting veering towards the other lane.

AintQik

Evil,
I just wanted to commend you for "giving" up. I see tons of people keep pushing when the conditions or set up are not right and wind up hitting something or somebody. So, kudos on your maturity. I too have heard these suspensions don't like soft tires and get squirrley on the top end. I'm still trying to get my set up right.

Evilways

Thanks. I have always belived it's better to lift and lose than to try to stay in it when it's not safe and hurt your car, yourself or somebody else. It's not like we're pros going for big money, it's a hobby.

1bdasvt

I just got My CCW 18" wheels and was gonna put BFG drag radials on or M/T'S,but maybe I'll stick with Nitto 555r's for now!

SoldSyclone

I have about 2,000 miles with no sensors never had a problem I run 30psi on the street and have hit 185 with no problems on a long roadcorse straight.

I tried lower psi and 60's did not get better and the car did move around more, the MT's may have a softer sidewall make sure your gauge is ok and set them at 35 psi and go for a test drive.

Are they 275 40 17's?

Mine took a little getting used to they do have more give/sway than my runflats.

Evilways

Yeah, they're the size you listed. I may have to try and bump up the psi next time out. 22 psi was my first couple of runs and I got tire spin and sway at the 2nd half of the track. 18 psi seemed to do best for me, but again, I didn't move the psi up, only down. Thanks for the imput.


BTW, I posted up some pics and vids of some of the runs in this forum. The dr run posted is the 18psi run 11.4 at 124.9 with a 1.85 60ft.

glennhl

I borrowed a set of old Nitto drag radials on 17" wagon wheels and pulled 1.89's with my A6. So I bought a new set of Nittos and bought some used 17" wagon wheels. I have yet to break 1.9's, typically running between 1.91 and 1.93. The car just dead hooks and that's all it will do. It's that darn 1800rpm stock converter.

A friend told me to try to "flash" the converter. He says to hold the brake and nail the gas and then let off the brake about a second after nailing the gas. Does that sound right for "flashing" a converter????

socalzo6

The best i can get on drags is 1.85. Tried every possible launch technique and tire preasure. The car needs a converter or alot more torque for a better 60ft.

Joe_G

Try raising the pressure a little - my car sways a little bit sometimes with 18 lbs...not at 20. The M/T are a little wobbly due to the soft sidewalls - you think those are bad, try some bias ply M/T's...that is scary I tried it for a while and gave them away as I didn't want to spring for front bias ply.

I wonder if your track was really the issue - try it again on a good track surface before you give up on the M/T. They are great tires.

Oh, and they are short tires at 25.5 or so, so they will mess up your shift points on an auto I bet. If you've got HP Tuners you can flash it for the shorter tires and flash it back when you're done racing. Matter of fact as I think of it the shorter tire causes my active handling to do funny things on lane changes on the way to the track like you are describing so I turn it off as a matter of habit. My lack of sensors and distance to the track cause a "service pressure system" message which automatically shuts off active handling by the time I get to the track.

SoldSyclone

Why did you go with such a short tire?
MT's:
275/40R17 26.0
265/40R18 26.5
305/35R18 26.4
295/45R17 27.2
BFG's:
295/35/18 26.2
wow I guess they are close I thought they were 26.4

All I know is many have run the BFG's: 295/35/18 26.2 Dennis just went 1.478 with them, he was running 24psi before???

SoldSyclone

Sounds like you have too much traction now what psi's did you try?

IMO flashing the converter is from idle or low rpm <1,000 then mash it.

Stalling it is to foot brake it to 1500 or 1600

Many say they get the best 60' off idle or low rpms not me the Higher I stall it the better the 60, but my track is verry sticky when prepped.

Busa196

Not trying to hijack the thread here, but is the above correct? I have the same message on my DIC because I have not trained my new sensors from my new wheel/tire combo. Are you telling me that my AH is OFF if that msg is displayed?

FWIW, I've heard nothing but good things about the MT ET Streets, not sure about the DR's. I had planned on getting some 18" wheels and DR's soon as I've had some very, very close calls due to traction issues as well. Appreciate your feedback on the MT DR's.

I have personal experience from the BFG DR's.....I had them on my blown C5 and can't say enough good about them. I went 1.53 on my short time (2800 stall) and they didn't squeal once. I think they had more in them, but I sold the car before I had a chance to experiment.

glennhl

I was running 18 psi, I'll try 22 next time out. I agree with you, I've always gotten my best 60's when launching from around 1200 to 1500 stalled.

Evilways

My active handling was definately engauged at parts of the run on the track with the car not "sensing" the tpms. I used to have bfg drs on my blown 2K TA, my best 60ft was 1.5's as well, but I also had the suspension set up for drag racing.My vette has almost no weight transfer to the rear.

SoldSyclone

On my 06 A6 I drive 30 miles to the track run 5-15 times and sometimes get the msg b4 I head home, if I get it I clear it and put it in comp mode, never had a problem except it takes the right seq to get her in comp mode.

Superstock1200

Aside from weight transfer, another problem you are going to have is a lack of converter. You aren't going to see great results on tire without a converter.

Just my opinion.

LS1LT1

I learned that in my A6 recently as well, I sixty footed no better on M/T DRs that I had on OEM runflats.


By the way Superstock, I heard your car yesterday at Cartek, sounded REAL good.