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So it appears that all the options I have seen (pulling fuse, switches, remotes) operate by opening or closing the dual mode exhaust control fuse location. However, doesn't this result in either the exhaust being in the loud mode all the time (switch open) or operating normally (switch closed)? My point is that there is really no control when the computer wants to open the valves above 3500rpm; there doesn't seem to be a solution to close the valves above 3500 rpm, or is there? Am I missing something?
So it appears that all the options I have seen (pulling fuse, switches, remotes) operate by opening or closing the dual mode exhaust control fuse location. However, doesn't this result in either the exhaust being in the loud mode all the time (switch open) or operating normally (switch closed)? My point is that there is really no control when the computer wants to open the valves above 3500rpm; there doesn't seem to be a solution to close the valves above 3500 rpm, or is there? Am I missing something?
There is a solution to control the bi-mode exhaust like you describe.
We build a controller called the Ultimate Exhaust Commander.
It has a user selectable rpm opening featurethat allows you to setthe rpm at which the butterflies open.
If you use our additional wiring harness you can bypass the gm computer that opens and closes the butterflies. The Ultimate Commander then does all of the opening and closing operations.
So you get 3 modes: Full Open, Full Closed, and user selectable rpm opening.
They are custom built so you ge to specify the rpm ranges you would like to be able to have the butterflies open at. There are dip switches on the controller that let you dial in the rpm.
So you could have the butterflies set to open at 4400 rpm if you wanted.
If anyone need any info, feel free to drop us a line.
That's pretty good, but what I was getting at was once the butterfly valves have been opened by the car's computer or your controller, is it possible to close them by using a switch and then open them again with the same switch? That would truly put the driver in full control.
Harry, I think thats what he's getting at when he says "Full Closed" and "Full Open".
Personally I just built my own thing by soldering wire to a cut in half fuse (to plug into the fuse panel), ran that wire around the center console, and then put a switch on it there. Even put in an inline fuse to. Ran about $20 I think but it is no where near as clean of an install as these kits.
Plus, that full closed thing sounds like a pretty cool option. Another thing you wouldn't get from a DIY thing.
I just installed the 2 button mild to wild controller. It took all of 2 minutes and wow does it work great. Great mod, great sound, great function, lousing packaging, but it works.
I'm sure either switch will do it's job. I bought the one that can hook to a key chain because it costed less at the time. I don't know what the prices are now. I wanted a dedicated switch in the car at all times though so I bought some industrial strength velcro. Problem solved.
You can see it attached w/velcro under the turn signal. This set up works for me.
Okay, every one here seems to want the full open. My problem is that fuse pulled or inserted, they stay open. Anyone know where the relay the fuse powers is located?
03-13-2011, 09:36 PM
