03-06-2015, 01:11 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Engine and Powertrain
- How to Open Your Hood with a Dead Battery
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourselfers.
Browse all: Engine and Powertrain
Help, dead battery, no key to open hatch
04-15-2018, 09:24 AM
#23
Racer
I have my spare keys taped inside the pocket of my wallet, house, car n bike
04-15-2018, 11:28 AM
#25
Race Director
Last edited by EVRose; 04-15-2018 at 11:28 AM.
03-15-2019, 08:31 PM
#27
1st Gear
Member Since: Mar 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Taillight Jumping
Yes, I can confirm the Taillight procedure. I did mine with a bench/test power supply(current regulated supply) but the leads are reasonably forgiving.
Positive is usually the side where the mark or writing is but you don't have to rely on that.
Take out the outside Tail/Brake/Turn light and if you have the right connection the inside brake light will light up.... helps if you have LED bulbs like I do because they only work in one direction of flow so you absolutely, definitely know that if your inside tail light comes on you've got the right connection.
My battery was completely discharged and probably dead.(I'll so find out) So, because i had a test bench power supply, I started with my voltage at 12VDC and just 2 amps light came on and I could hear clicking when I pressed the remote but nothing happened... I cranked the Amperage to 3.5 and the trunk unlatched but not the doors... Cranked it to 5 Amps and the doors finally opened. This whole procedure probably took less than 1 minute so not much charging was happening.
I'd be leary of doing anything more than getting the doors open via this procedure because it took about 5 amps to get the doors open... not sure the wire gauge to the tail lights but its pretty thin... but 60 watts should be fine even if you hooked it up to jumper cables from another vehicle or a booster pack at 15V you should be safe not to do any damage.
I did try it again once I got the doors open at 15 volts and 7 amps... and it was still perfectly fine and the door locks worked a lot better with that current level, I'd assume the dead battery is taking a bunch of that current.
I feel this procedure is reasonably safe for the momentary power required just to open the trunk or doors.
Just to be clear. I took out the Left Brake/Turn Light instead of the center brake light. I did this because I knew I had LED bulbs and the Brake/Tail functions are cross-linked between the two left or right lights and because LEDs only operated in the correct orientation I knew that if the other light lit up, I had the connection correct.
Positive is usually the side where the mark or writing is but you don't have to rely on that.
Take out the outside Tail/Brake/Turn light and if you have the right connection the inside brake light will light up.... helps if you have LED bulbs like I do because they only work in one direction of flow so you absolutely, definitely know that if your inside tail light comes on you've got the right connection.
My battery was completely discharged and probably dead.(I'll so find out) So, because i had a test bench power supply, I started with my voltage at 12VDC and just 2 amps light came on and I could hear clicking when I pressed the remote but nothing happened... I cranked the Amperage to 3.5 and the trunk unlatched but not the doors... Cranked it to 5 Amps and the doors finally opened. This whole procedure probably took less than 1 minute so not much charging was happening.
I'd be leary of doing anything more than getting the doors open via this procedure because it took about 5 amps to get the doors open... not sure the wire gauge to the tail lights but its pretty thin... but 60 watts should be fine even if you hooked it up to jumper cables from another vehicle or a booster pack at 15V you should be safe not to do any damage.
I did try it again once I got the doors open at 15 volts and 7 amps... and it was still perfectly fine and the door locks worked a lot better with that current level, I'd assume the dead battery is taking a bunch of that current.
I feel this procedure is reasonably safe for the momentary power required just to open the trunk or doors.
Just to be clear. I took out the Left Brake/Turn Light instead of the center brake light. I did this because I knew I had LED bulbs and the Brake/Tail functions are cross-linked between the two left or right lights and because LEDs only operated in the correct orientation I knew that if the other light lit up, I had the connection correct.
Last edited by John Sterne; 03-15-2019 at 08:37 PM. Reason: clarity
03-15-2019, 08:38 PM
#28
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2015
Location: Mead Wash
Posts: 3,300
Received 766 Likes
on
538 Posts
2020 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Battery
Yes, I can confirm the Taillight procedure. I did mine with a bench/test power supply(current regulated supply) but the leads are reasonably forgiving.
Positive is usually the side where the mark or writing is but you don't have to rely on that.
Take out the outside Tail/Brake/Turn light and if you have the right connection the inside brake light will light up.... helps if you have LED bulbs like I do because they only work in one direction of flow so you absolutely, definitely know that if your inside tail light comes on you've got the right connection.
My battery was completely discharged and probably dead.(I'll so find out) So, because i had a test bench power supply, I started with my voltage at 12VDC and just 2 amps light came on and I could hear clicking when I pressed the remote but nothing happened... I cranked the Amperage to 3.5 and the trunk unlatched but not the doors... Cranked it to 5 Amps and the doors finally opened. This whole procedure probably took less than 1 minute so not much charging was happening.
I'd be leary of doing anything more than getting the doors open via this procedure because it took about 5 amps to get the doors open... not sure the wire gauge to the tail lights but its pretty thin... but 60 watts should be fine even if you hooked it up to jumper cables from another vehicle or a booster pack at 15V you should be safe not to do any damage.
I did try it again once I got the doors open at 15 volts and 7 amps... and it was still perfectly fine and the door locks worked a lot better with that current level, I'd assume the dead battery is taking a bunch of that current.
I feel this procedure is reasonably safe for the momentary power required just to open the trunk or doors.
Positive is usually the side where the mark or writing is but you don't have to rely on that.
Take out the outside Tail/Brake/Turn light and if you have the right connection the inside brake light will light up.... helps if you have LED bulbs like I do because they only work in one direction of flow so you absolutely, definitely know that if your inside tail light comes on you've got the right connection.
My battery was completely discharged and probably dead.(I'll so find out) So, because i had a test bench power supply, I started with my voltage at 12VDC and just 2 amps light came on and I could hear clicking when I pressed the remote but nothing happened... I cranked the Amperage to 3.5 and the trunk unlatched but not the doors... Cranked it to 5 Amps and the doors finally opened. This whole procedure probably took less than 1 minute so not much charging was happening.
I'd be leary of doing anything more than getting the doors open via this procedure because it took about 5 amps to get the doors open... not sure the wire gauge to the tail lights but its pretty thin... but 60 watts should be fine even if you hooked it up to jumper cables from another vehicle or a booster pack at 15V you should be safe not to do any damage.
I did try it again once I got the doors open at 15 volts and 7 amps... and it was still perfectly fine and the door locks worked a lot better with that current level, I'd assume the dead battery is taking a bunch of that current.
I feel this procedure is reasonably safe for the momentary power required just to open the trunk or doors.
Last edited by 2008 Corvette; 03-15-2019 at 08:43 PM.
03-15-2023, 09:15 AM
#29
Great to see this 14 year old thread. Forgot to put car in reverse and I leave the key in the cupholder and have only one fob. Battery dead, doors don't work, no extra key. I'm thinking damn this is gonna cost me and also thought a locksmith might bill me and not be able to open the door. Found this thread in about a minute and learned what to do.
Hooked up to the starter motor - positive post is the upper post on the starter. Remove the wires to give yourself room and you'll need tiny clips to fit. Glad my car was in the garage with the Quick Jack ready to slide under. I really liked the dirt bike charge in the post above using the light wires, that'll work also. Also, I'm getting a key cut and will hide it on the car, as posted above.
LOVE THIS FORUM SAVED MY ***
Hooked up to the starter motor - positive post is the upper post on the starter. Remove the wires to give yourself room and you'll need tiny clips to fit. Glad my car was in the garage with the Quick Jack ready to slide under. I really liked the dirt bike charge in the post above using the light wires, that'll work also. Also, I'm getting a key cut and will hide it on the car, as posted above.
LOVE THIS FORUM SAVED MY ***
The following users liked this post:
~STOLEN~ (03-15-2023)
03-22-2023, 03:57 PM
#30
Burning Brakes
Why not keep the key in the fob? even if it falls out, as mine does, some black electrical tape holds it in. Serves no useful purpose to keep the key in the car since when you need it you can't get it.
