pmj341

Guy's need help!!!
I started getting my engine ready to pull out.
Pulled the headers, plugs, coil brackets, intake manifold, removed the
A/C compressor, Acc brackets P/S, Alt, all electrical plugs, starter.
How do you unhook the driveshaft on a A6?? Do you remove the
engine mts from the engine or the frame??? How do you support the
Tube??
thanks
Phil

c6 batmobile

I believe you have to remove the whole front rack and pinion in order for it to move forward. There are two large bolts one is below your powersteering res. and the other is about a foot and a half to the other side of that. Be very careful and make sure your battery is disconnected because there is an airbag sensor in that area also you dont wanna blow that baby. I also think you have to remove the mounts from the frame cause the way the motor sits you cant reach the ones on the engine Im not 100 percent on that one though. When I dropped all my stuff I just supported the front and the BACK of the tube and with a jack so there wasnt any stress on it.

Hope this helped.

sheesnaz

You are supposed to put a couple of bolts in the Torque tube and torque them down before removing the four bolts from the rear engine cover, or Bell housing. I also put a few bolts back in the tunnel cover to support the torque tube. I had to remove the motor mounts from the motor. Make sure not to raise the motor to much and crack the cowl. Also I supported the oil pan with a jack, just to make sure. Also make sure and remove the bolts for the A/C Compressor.

MrDrezzUp

Uncanny timing...I too am in the process of removing my engine!

Can the transmission stay mounted or does it need to come off?

Where/how does the engine disconnect from the transmission so that the engine can be lifted out? Does the bellhousing somehow come off? I have 5 of the 6 bellhousing bolts removed. My car has a manual transmission.

'VETTE PHASE

I dropped the crossmember when I did mine. You will either have to do this or remove the steering rack.

To separate the prop shaft from the engine, you can either loosen the clamp on the prop shaft hub or remove the prop shaft hub from the flywheel. If you do the latter, you won't have to go immediately forward with the engine before you can go up with it. Either way, the prop shaft hub should come off before you get the engine out, since it adds about 6" to the length of the engine. Just be sure and mark it so it goes back on the flywheel in the same place because it is a balanced unit.

pmj341

Well, You guys ansewred most of my questions.
Now I'll remove the prop shaft hub(marking it) pull the bell housing
bolts, support the tube, pull the engine mts at the engine, A/C comp
and rack, is that it??
thanks for all your input

pmj341

Got it out!!!!!!!!!!
was not easy, Next time I will also remove the radiator and fan assy.
thanks for all the input.!!
Phil

'VETTE PHASE

Really?! I didn't remove the fan or radiator and I left all of the accessories attached to the front of the motor. I had very little trouble. Did you use a leveler? It was mandatory in my case.

pmj341

Yes, I used the same one, however I hooked it on the heads.
I realized that it was not the best place to put them!!!

SPDKNGG

Thanks for the info..
Im currently tearing into my buddy's C6 Z with a D1 blower..turns out the engine builder used 3 layer head gaskets instead of the 7 layer MLS.
Got the valve covers off, found milky oil all under the valve covers. I guess the head gaskets didnt like 18 lbs of boost!..lol Car made 732hp 560lbs ft at the wheels.

Where did you guys buy that leveler?

07STSTTBASE

Does anyone have more info on the torque tube marking and removal or now of a good write up?

CMY SIX

nothing like knowing about your car... # 1 the tranny is in the back{transaxle}. I love it! $50.000 car and won't buy a $125 set of shop manuals

glenB

Now, now, now... it's obviously an older C6, so lets say $25K car and $125 set of shop manuals

realcanuk

Taking it out with the rad and everything in place is not the fun part. Its getting it back in.

theVcar

What are the plans? Are these motors shot or just doing it for the fun. How much mileage on them?

sick cc

whats the best shop manual to use? mines coming out and im down to removing the intake manifold and the exhaust and what ever other little things there are.

SteveDoten

Valley puller plate helps quite a but

Easy to pivot

383

I know this thread is old... but I was hoping for more info on the removal of the TT from the engine. How do I gain access to the propeller shaft hub? Can it be pulled with the rack in? I hate reconnecting the rack lines

spy2520

x2
Also interested

dukecebrelli

I know this is an old thread, but I am in the process of pulling my LS2 (manual trans) now. Accessories, heads, exhaust, radiator/fan, & A/C removed. Bolts removed from bell-housing and TT, and 3 bolts from each of the engine mounts removed from block. Loosened 4 cradle nuts and can pry down to make room for the balancer to clear the steering tube. Engine pops up and angles up towards front and have gaps between the TT and bell-housing. When pulling the hoist away from car, the engine seems to give for a second and snap back like something is holding it back. Already checked that all cables, etc., are d/c. I can get about a 2 1/2 inch gap either between the bell housing and engine, or the TT and bell housing but nothing more. Is there something else to disconnect, or is the engine at too great an angle to slide off of the TT shaft? Thanks in advance!