noredlights

The following will prevent the popping noise/clicking noise that comes from the real wheel hub area and occurs typically when starting from a stop; backing from a stop; sometimes shifting from 1st to 2nd...basically any time there is a slow speed change in the torque to the rear wheels. As previous posts (from the FAQ) have indicated, this is caused by a binding of the half-shaft CV joint surface with the wheel hub assembly, and can occur despite proper torquing of the wheel nut. The solution is to grease the half-shaft spline and the mating surfaces of the CV joint and wheel hub, as illustrated below. FWIW, I did not refer to any service manuals for this procedure; as such, it is probably not the only way to go about this.

Step 1: Remove the Wheel



Step 2: Remove the Axle Nut (34mm socket)


Step 3: Remove the nuts securing the tie rod and the upper A-arm to the wheel hub assembly (circled). (3/4-in box wrench plus hex-key sockets). Removing the brake rotor is not necessary; removing the caliper will later help generate space to expose the half-shaft, since you won't be fighting the length of the brake line.


Step 4: To free the wheel hub assembly from its control-arm-bushing constraints, you may have to use a jack underneath the lower-control arm to raise the assembly enough to level out the upper arm. Tapping the upper arm with a hammer should be sufficient to free the top bushing. Tapping the bolt of the tie rod should force down it through the wheel hub assembly. Once free, you can rotate the wheel hub outward while pulling on the half shaft to expose the splines and mating surfaces as shown. Apply your favorite brand of axle/wheel bearing grease.


You should also take this time to grease the tie-rod end at its fitting (Z51-equipped vehicles).

Put everything back together, jacking up the suspension components as necessary to align and tighten all the bushings. Use blue threadlock on the axle nut and torque it to 160lb-ft.

GR8-WHT

Any chance you can repost the pics? They seem to have dropped out. Seems pretty simple, but as they say about pics and a 1000 words....

Thanks.

Steve

vetracer

I posted a similar thread a few weeks ago with pics:

http://http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-tech-performance/2490048-clicking-noise-from-rear-when-shifting-into-d-or-r-fixed.html

GR8-WHT

Thanks! I need to work on my search skills!

Dale_K

Pics aren't working. Any chance of getting them refreshed?

noredlights

Pictures refreshed. Old thread, I know...sorry.

WHT

Since the old thread was brought back to life:


You can also (i) remove the axle nuts, (ii) lightly tap the axle once or twice, (iii) apply spray-on penetrating motorcycle chain lube to the exposed splines and (iv) replace the nut (new is best) and torque it to specifications.

fred_S

I tried that, for me it only worked for a short period, then the clicking came back. I'm going to do it the right way when I change my wheel bearing.

torquetube

Yes - the only lasting fix is to get lubricant on the flat surface at the base of the splines.

After I went back and re-lubed the splines and the flat, my axles have been silent for 70K miles. I used Honda Moly 60.

MINI&aVette

I took the nuts off and used a chemical spray called Molly lube. It goes on as a liquid and turns into grease. I put this on about 10,000 miles ago and it's been silent since.

MTsVette

Mini&aVette:

What torque spec did you use for the rear axle nuts?

MT

MINI&aVette

I tightened new nuts to 140 LBS and used blue loctite and let the car sit for 24 hours before driving.

WHT

It IS the right way if you do it correctly.

I learned a long time ago that two people can attempt the same job and one can make it work and the other can't. The fact that you couldn't make it work is no indication that the other way is more correct (as others already know).

Bill Dearborn

This is covered under the 5 year/100K warranty. The dealer replaced both rear axle shafts and both rear wheel bearings on my 08Z last year. Once they start clicking both parts are worn and do not fit together properly anymore. If you have somebody drive your car while you watch the axle spline in the hub you will see the axle move inside the hub as the person slowly lets the clutch out and the slack in the fitting is taken up.

The only way to stop the noise is to replace the parts so they fit tightly together. If you replace just one there will still be slop and the new part will wear. Lubricating the splines is a short term fix as well.

Bill

torquetube

The splines are not an interference fit. They have to have some slack or else you'd need a hydraulic press to install the axle. Even brand new ones are going to have lash.

My "short-term fix" has lasted 70,000 miles.

4SUMERZ

I'll keep an eye on this. I will check these items while my car is in winter hibernation. I will install the new axle nut with the Nord Lock washer

xdmikey

I lubed my half shafts and will be watching/listening as well.

BTW, no winter hibernation here!

Cor430vette

So, as far as lubrication, anti-seize compound on the hub and axle splines or axle bearing grease? Or does it matter?