08 Zo6 clutch advice?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
08 Zo6 clutch advice?
Im helping a friend do a little research. im not 100% sure what the problem is myself. he has had this issue a few times in the last week or so. the clutch pedal is not coming up all the way and he has to pull it up with his foot. its a few inches short of returning all the way. he had the clutch fluid drained/filled and had the system bled on friday at the dealer and it still does it. he says the first few shifts are fine when he first starts it but after that the problem starts.
The car is not stock, its got a lingenfelter heads/cam package and makes 614whp. he just got it back a week and a half ago. the car still has a stock trans/clutch with 17k on it. i am thinking a weak pressure plate myself but im no expert. he says the clutch bites good and does not slip. what are your opinions on possable causes of this problem? he is aware he is going to need a clutch real fast, but he figured he would smoke the stock one first. what would you replace the clutch with? will a ZR1 clutch hold the power?
The car is not stock, its got a lingenfelter heads/cam package and makes 614whp. he just got it back a week and a half ago. the car still has a stock trans/clutch with 17k on it. i am thinking a weak pressure plate myself but im no expert. he says the clutch bites good and does not slip. what are your opinions on possable causes of this problem? he is aware he is going to need a clutch real fast, but he figured he would smoke the stock one first. what would you replace the clutch with? will a ZR1 clutch hold the power?
#3
Race Director
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Pressure plate springs do not get weak enough to stop a pedal from returning to the top of it's travel. You either have a hydraulic leak in the clutch actuating system or the master or slave actuator is faulty.
#4
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '12
Im helping a friend do a little research. im not 100% sure what the problem is myself. he has had this issue a few times in the last week or so. the clutch pedal is not coming up all the way and he has to pull it up with his foot. its a few inches short of returning all the way. he had the clutch fluid drained/filled and had the system bled on friday at the dealer and it still does it. he says the first few shifts are fine when he first starts it but after that the problem starts.
The car is not stock, its got a lingenfelter heads/cam package and makes 614whp. he just got it back a week and a half ago. the car still has a stock trans/clutch with 17k on it. i am thinking a weak pressure plate myself but im no expert. he says the clutch bites good and does not slip. what are your opinions on possable causes of this problem? he is aware he is going to need a clutch real fast, but he figured he would smoke the stock one first. what would you replace the clutch with? will a ZR1 clutch hold the power?
The car is not stock, its got a lingenfelter heads/cam package and makes 614whp. he just got it back a week and a half ago. the car still has a stock trans/clutch with 17k on it. i am thinking a weak pressure plate myself but im no expert. he says the clutch bites good and does not slip. what are your opinions on possable causes of this problem? he is aware he is going to need a clutch real fast, but he figured he would smoke the stock one first. what would you replace the clutch with? will a ZR1 clutch hold the power?
"ranger" on this site has video (great video) on how to correct this problem and keep it that way.....look it up.....he did GREAT....
#5
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And after you do that and you still have the problem then as I said before: You either have a hydraulic leak in the clutch actuating system or the master or slave actuator is faulty.
#8
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '12
Check out Ranger's video's. And if they don't answer your question you can post thread w/your problem/question.....the other thread above gives advice also...
#9
Team Owner
Over-centering aggravates our inherent poor clutch designs tendency to stick down. Changing out fluid helps of course. But figure out how to reduce your clutch throw will also help.
This gizmo has helped me and others:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...00/ppuser/6747
It's a 50 cent window track lock I bought at Tru-Value Hardware.
It clamps onto the clutch arm nubbin backwards, so that the bolt head engages the floor cut-out switch about an inch early. This reduces throw, and also makes the clutch feel as if it engages earlier off the floor. As opposed to way back in the air where most don't like it.
Just make sure that you don't over do it, and the clutch doesn't completely disengage.
This gizmo has helped me and others:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...00/ppuser/6747
It's a 50 cent window track lock I bought at Tru-Value Hardware.
It clamps onto the clutch arm nubbin backwards, so that the bolt head engages the floor cut-out switch about an inch early. This reduces throw, and also makes the clutch feel as if it engages earlier off the floor. As opposed to way back in the air where most don't like it.
Just make sure that you don't over do it, and the clutch doesn't completely disengage.
#11
Supporting Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08
I am selling the entire kit for $1,499 with free shipping in the 48.
RICH
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
i know about rangers videos and stuff myself. My C5 is a 6 speed and that was the first advice i gave him. But we drained the fluid, filled it again and bled the system. we have driven it probably a few hundre miles and it still has the problem with constant fluid changes between drives. he is going to be looking into a new clutch kit since he will need it anyway. and i think he has decided on the Katech LS9X kit. we will probably replace the slave cylinder as well. I'll let you know if any of that fixes the problem.
#13
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Location: Supporting the Corvette Community at Abel Chevrolet in Rio Vista, CA 707-374-6317 Ext.123
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St. Jude Donor '08
i know about rangers videos and stuff myself. My C5 is a 6 speed and that was the first advice i gave him. But we drained the fluid, filled it again and bled the system. we have driven it probably a few hundre miles and it still has the problem with constant fluid changes between drives. he is going to be looking into a new clutch kit since he will need it anyway. and i think he has decided on the Katech LS9X kit. we will probably replace the slave cylinder as well. I'll let you know if any of that fixes the problem.
The kit I sell comes with the ZR1 pressure plate, disk(s), Katech alum flywheel, pp bolts, flywheel bolts, ZR1 slave cyl w/ TO bearing, pilot bearing, bottle of Dot 4 fluid and FREE SHIPPING!
RICH
#15
Melting Slicks
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I'll bet you a cold beer that his clutch fluid is NASTY. Your supposed to keep clutch fluid changed and always clear. Especially you guys who do track days. Its hard work on your clutch. So you have to keep fluid clean. Look in reservoir between brake/windshield washer reservoirs. If its dark, there is your problem. Soot get into the resv. and causes the cable assembly to gum up. If your clutch is not returning properly, you'll need to change fluid 'many times' to correct the problem. It's much easier to keep it clean rather than let it get nasty and start problem of poor pedal return.
"ranger" on this site has video (great video) on how to correct this problem and keep it that way.....look it up.....he did GREAT....
"ranger" on this site has video (great video) on how to correct this problem and keep it that way.....look it up.....he did GREAT....