Dropping your C6's drivetrain, Version 4.0
02-14-2011, 09:55 PM
#21
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02-14-2011, 10:07 PM
#22
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02-14-2011, 10:08 PM
#23
Melting Slicks
Great write up!!!
Thanks for taking the time. Funny too!
Since you went with coil overs, you must appreciate fine handling. I can report that when I went from base sway bars to z06 bars on my c5 it was a Great mod. I think it would be for you as well. Really tightened up the cars's handling.
P.s. Phil I didn't know you did these.......and you think they are easy! I'll remember that!
Thanks for taking the time. Funny too!Since you went with coil overs, you must appreciate fine handling. I can report that when I went from base sway bars to z06 bars on my c5 it was a Great mod. I think it would be for you as well. Really tightened up the cars's handling.
P.s. Phil I didn't know you did these.......and you think they are easy! I'll remember that!
I've done C5 and C6 trans/clutches/rears/converters/engines/brakes/suspensions/fuel pumps
FREE as long as you help!!
no radiators
Last edited by pmj341; 02-14-2011 at 10:10 PM.
02-14-2011, 10:23 PM
#24
Tech Contributor
I hate radiators too. Can't stand cleaning up that slippery sticky antifreeze.I have some wheels and tires for your friend, call me when you are heading to PBIR and I'll bring them up.
02-15-2011, 12:43 PM
#25
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Great write up!!! Thanks for taking the time. Funny too!
Since you went with coil overs, you must appreciate fine handling. I can report that when I went from base sway bars to z06 bars on my c5 it was a Great mod. I think it would be for you as well. Really tightened up the cars's handling.
P.s. Phil I didn't know you did these.......and you think they are easy! I'll remember that!
Thanks for taking the time. Funny too!Since you went with coil overs, you must appreciate fine handling. I can report that when I went from base sway bars to z06 bars on my c5 it was a Great mod. I think it would be for you as well. Really tightened up the cars's handling.
P.s. Phil I didn't know you did these.......and you think they are easy! I'll remember that!
It's like I'm viewing through a sheet of seran-wrap. 
No prob!
Slickshoes sorry to clutter up your thread, but Agfntb my wife has caught me and my little boys laying under my 4x4 pickup more than once just looking up at the undercarriage....must be a guy thing, we like looking underneath a vehicle! And it starts early, my boys have been doing it since they could crawl.
I'd be a rich man. I'm only 28 and I could've paid off a house, I'm sure!
02-15-2011, 01:07 PM
#27
Team Owner
Looking forward to the rest of this thread. I got to do a clutch in my z06 pretty soon. I'll be flying out to Burbank next Wednesday to spend Thursday-Sunday relaxing on the beach in Santa Barbara. Too cold here still for the vette.
02-15-2011, 01:40 PM
#28
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Alright then, getting back on track! With the differential exposed, take a seventh inning stretch. While it's pretty straightforward from here on out, it's going to take some elbow grease and a little bit of muscle if you haven't got a helper or special transmission jacks to compliment your "lift".
The only thing to watch out for at this point is the sensor on top of the differential. I forget what it's for, but I believe speed. Basically, if you've got one up there, unplug it.
Now, before you pull the diff, you will almost certainly need to remove your exhaust if you haven't done so to this point. I was able to remove my differential beforehand simply because I run an SLP Loudmouth axle-back that has practically non-existent mufflers. If you have anything with cans, they'll certainly be in the way of the differential sliding back. The diff has to come back nearly a full foot to slide all they way off the transmission's output shaft. This would end up putting your diff right into your mufflers and wedging it there.
Since I personally loathe having to remove the axle-back from the mid-pipe, I simply unbolt the mid pipe at the header collecters, undo the small spring hangers just forward of the transmission, and slide the rubber grommets off of the very rear-most muffler hangers. This allows me to rock the exhaust around as a whole, and it easily pops away from the headers and drops to the ground. If you're worried about keeping your exhaust unscuffed or shiny, lay something on the ground for when the exhaust pops off. A pair of old sweat pants, some styrofoam, cardboard, whatever the case. I just slide the exhaust forwards as a whole unit out from under the car. Now is also the best time to remove the tunnel plate, by the way. This is the big aluminum plate above the midpipe held on by what seems to be two or three million 5/16" bolts.
Okay, now that your exhaust and tunnel plate are off, there are 8 attachment points that hold the differential to the transmission. Along the bottom, you'll loosen 3 nuts, and remove one long stud at the driver's side. On either side of the diff, you'll remove two studs, and at the very top, you'll remove two more. These upper two appear to be a nut that would screw off of an implanted stud, but this isn't the case. The nut is fused to the stud, and the stud itself unscrews towards the front of the car- just an FYI. Now lets go ahead and make sure you have one of your trusty floor jacks that you used earlier to lower the cradle, and position it right under the transmission, but not under the diff itself, as this has to slide away. Once you've got some support under the tranny, if you still have a jack under the diff, make sure it's now out of the way so the diff is free to slide off.
If you're not sure whether or not you can keep the diff level enough when lowering it down to keep all of the fluid inside, then drain it. It will spill out everywhere if you allow the diff to rotate in any direction when pulling it out from under the car. I left the fluid in, as it was brand new and I didn't want to drain and have to refill it. I spilled a few tablespoons, but I'm comfortable with that. The transmission is better sealed however, and you should be able to lower it without any notable amount of fluid escaping.
Once you've got all the bolts loose and the transmission supported, begin rocking the diff a bit (lightly) to start separating it from the tranny. It should simply slide backwards of of the tranny output shaft. If it doesn't go at all, check your bolts. If they're all loose and no seperation is happening, very slowly lower the jack several degrees to drop the whole drivetrain down. Be extremely careful during this step, as your jack is the only thing supporting the drivetrain, and if you go too far, your intake manifold can crush your firewall. The added downward slope should help gravity assist you in sliding the diff off.
Once you get some seperation, remove the bolts, get good and planted, tuck your knees up towards your chest, and get ready to muscle the differential back and slowly lower it down. With a little manhandling, and some bench press basics, keep the diff steady and slowly bring it back and down to your chest. My preferred method is to press it downward onto my stomach, worm-wiggle out from under the car, and lightly set it down upright by rolling to one side, maintaining control of the diff and watching my fingers in the process. This is an intimidating step, and it can be dangerous when done alone. If you're an old greybeard and the muscles and bones dont work like they used to, I advise enlisting the help of a friend, neighbor, coworker, punk teenager, or the like.
Obviously I didn't get any pics of this particular process, as I'm the only one here to do it, so the next photo is what you should see with the diff completely removed:
And here is a closer look at where those 8 attachment points are at, around the perimeter of the transmission tail housing (note that the two centered points along the bottom are studs that remain in the trans case!) :
After that, I removed my exhaust as we discussed above- then lowered it down and slid it forward out of the way:
...next we'll pull the transmission.
The only thing to watch out for at this point is the sensor on top of the differential. I forget what it's for, but I believe speed. Basically, if you've got one up there, unplug it.
Now, before you pull the diff, you will almost certainly need to remove your exhaust if you haven't done so to this point. I was able to remove my differential beforehand simply because I run an SLP Loudmouth axle-back that has practically non-existent mufflers. If you have anything with cans, they'll certainly be in the way of the differential sliding back. The diff has to come back nearly a full foot to slide all they way off the transmission's output shaft. This would end up putting your diff right into your mufflers and wedging it there.
Since I personally loathe having to remove the axle-back from the mid-pipe, I simply unbolt the mid pipe at the header collecters, undo the small spring hangers just forward of the transmission, and slide the rubber grommets off of the very rear-most muffler hangers. This allows me to rock the exhaust around as a whole, and it easily pops away from the headers and drops to the ground. If you're worried about keeping your exhaust unscuffed or shiny, lay something on the ground for when the exhaust pops off. A pair of old sweat pants, some styrofoam, cardboard, whatever the case. I just slide the exhaust forwards as a whole unit out from under the car. Now is also the best time to remove the tunnel plate, by the way. This is the big aluminum plate above the midpipe held on by what seems to be two or three million 5/16" bolts.
Okay, now that your exhaust and tunnel plate are off, there are 8 attachment points that hold the differential to the transmission. Along the bottom, you'll loosen 3 nuts, and remove one long stud at the driver's side. On either side of the diff, you'll remove two studs, and at the very top, you'll remove two more. These upper two appear to be a nut that would screw off of an implanted stud, but this isn't the case. The nut is fused to the stud, and the stud itself unscrews towards the front of the car- just an FYI. Now lets go ahead and make sure you have one of your trusty floor jacks that you used earlier to lower the cradle, and position it right under the transmission, but not under the diff itself, as this has to slide away. Once you've got some support under the tranny, if you still have a jack under the diff, make sure it's now out of the way so the diff is free to slide off.
If you're not sure whether or not you can keep the diff level enough when lowering it down to keep all of the fluid inside, then drain it. It will spill out everywhere if you allow the diff to rotate in any direction when pulling it out from under the car. I left the fluid in, as it was brand new and I didn't want to drain and have to refill it. I spilled a few tablespoons, but I'm comfortable with that. The transmission is better sealed however, and you should be able to lower it without any notable amount of fluid escaping.
Once you've got all the bolts loose and the transmission supported, begin rocking the diff a bit (lightly) to start separating it from the tranny. It should simply slide backwards of of the tranny output shaft. If it doesn't go at all, check your bolts. If they're all loose and no seperation is happening, very slowly lower the jack several degrees to drop the whole drivetrain down. Be extremely careful during this step, as your jack is the only thing supporting the drivetrain, and if you go too far, your intake manifold can crush your firewall. The added downward slope should help gravity assist you in sliding the diff off.
Once you get some seperation, remove the bolts, get good and planted, tuck your knees up towards your chest, and get ready to muscle the differential back and slowly lower it down. With a little manhandling, and some bench press basics, keep the diff steady and slowly bring it back and down to your chest. My preferred method is to press it downward onto my stomach, worm-wiggle out from under the car, and lightly set it down upright by rolling to one side, maintaining control of the diff and watching my fingers in the process. This is an intimidating step, and it can be dangerous when done alone. If you're an old greybeard and the muscles and bones dont work like they used to, I advise enlisting the help of a friend, neighbor, coworker, punk teenager, or the like.
Obviously I didn't get any pics of this particular process, as I'm the only one here to do it, so the next photo is what you should see with the diff completely removed:
And here is a closer look at where those 8 attachment points are at, around the perimeter of the transmission tail housing (note that the two centered points along the bottom are studs that remain in the trans case!) :
After that, I removed my exhaust as we discussed above- then lowered it down and slid it forward out of the way:
...next we'll pull the transmission.
Last edited by SlickShoes; 02-11-2015 at 01:16 PM.
02-15-2011, 01:58 PM
#29
_Sloth Whisperer_
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And is that an early 70's Cutty he's crawling around on?
Welp, I've got the tranny out and a couple pics coming, so stay tuned.
02-15-2011, 02:02 PM
#30
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Depending on where you live, insects may pose troublesome. Dispatch your helpers at this point and implore them to lap up and gulp down encroaching arthropods.
Last edited by SlickShoes; 02-11-2015 at 01:19 PM.
02-15-2011, 02:22 PM
#31
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02-15-2011, 03:08 PM
#32
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Unfortunately, before we can get that transmission out, we have to get inside the car and pull the center console apart. It's pretty self explanatory, but just be careful. As the stereotype "plastic fantastic" goes, there's a measure of truth as to why our cars are labeled as such.
First get your console base and lid outta the way by opening the lid, popping the little oval tabs at the back of the base, and removing the bolts. As you start digging around, you'll begin finding all the attachment points just by where the resistance is when trying to move the plastic parts. The console HVAC/Stereo surround has to come out as well, and that's also a pretty straightforward process. It mostly just unsnaps, but don't quote me on that one. There may be a bolt or two somewhere, I just can't recall from off the top of my head. My car hasn't had a center console in it for some time now, lol. I've learned to leave it out for a week or so after dropping the drivetrain because there's a fair chance it just might have to come out to do it all again anyways. *sigh* Case in point. There's plenty of other write ups on the forum on how to do this, so I'll leave it up to you to dig those up. It'll look like this when you're there:
Once you get all of that plastic out of the way, pull the shift ****, boot, and corresponding rubber isolators underneath it all. You'll gain access to the shift linkage at the back of your shifter. The shifter assembly is mounted to the torque tube itself, and will need to be unfastened from the tube in order to eventually drop it. At the moment however, keep it bolted up. What you're going to want to do is disconnect that black shift linkage rod (which is attached at the far end to the transmission) from the shifter. It's a simple T40 torx bolt threaded through a collar that will come right out. It sits in a groove which is cut into the shifter assembly's output rod. It keeps the linkage and shifter properly connected and aligned. Once you've disconnected it, use a flat-head screw driver or other means of pry bar and slide the unfastened collar back off of the shifter's output rod. This is what you'll end up with:
...and this is the shift rod that leads back to the transmission which you will have just disconnected. See how the collar and boss correspond to the groove in the rod of the shifter's output?
...and a peek ahead. Here's how that shift rod enters the transmission. It's good to know how this attaches before pulling the transmission so you can take precautions when pulling the transmission out to pull it away straight back out from the torque tube and not pinch or bend this rod at all. That'd be a big problem, as we all know how much just the slightest misalignment can affect the ability to properly grab a gear, if even at all!
Now in the meantime, leave that shifter assembly attached to the torque tube. Before we loosen any of those torx, realize that those mounting points are all adjustable. They're made this way to facilitate adjustment for proper positive engagement in the transmission. Before you loosen them, use a grease pen or marker or even a quick blip of spray paint over them to highlight exactly where they were. I learned the hard way the first time that it can be very frustrating when bolting that assembly back up, finishing the re-installation of your interior, and going for a test drive only to find out that you don't have the shifter aligned just right and now can't get 2nd, 4th, or 6th gears very well. :'/
Last edited by SlickShoes; 02-11-2015 at 01:24 PM.
02-15-2011, 03:22 PM
#34
Tech Contributor
Once you get all of that plastic out of the way, pull the shift ****, boot, and corresponding rubber isolaters underneath it all. You'll gain access to the shift linkage at the back of your shifter. The shifter assembly is mounted to the torque tube itself, and will need to be unfastened from the tube in order to eventually drop it. At the moment however, keep it bolted up. What you're going to want to do is disconnect that black shift linkage rod (which is attached at the far end to the transmission) from the shifter. It's a simple T40 torx bolt threaded through a collar that will come right out. It sits in a groove which is cut into the shifter assembly's output rod. It keeps the linkage and shifter properly connected and aligned. Once you've diconnected it, use a flathead screw driver or other means of pry bar and slide the unfastened collar back off of the shifter's output rod. This is what you'll end up with:
...and this is the shift rod that leads back to the transmission which you will have just disconnected. See how the collar and boss correspond to the groove in the rod of the shifter's output?
Now in the meantime, leave that shifter assembly attached to the torque tube. Before we loosen any of those torx, realize that those mounting points are all adjustable. They're made this way to facilitate adjustment for proper positive engagement in the transmission. Before you loosen them, use a grease pen or marker or even a quick blip of spray paint over them to highlight exactly where they were. I learned the hard way the first time that it can be very frustrating when bolting that assembly back up, finishing the reinstallation of your interior, and going for a test drive only to find out that you dont have the shifter aligned just right and now can't get 2nd, 4th, or 6th gears. :'/
...and this is the shift rod that leads back to the transmission which you will have just disconnected. See how the collar and boss correspond to the groove in the rod of the shifter's output?
Now in the meantime, leave that shifter assembly attached to the torque tube. Before we loosen any of those torx, realize that those mounting points are all adjustable. They're made this way to facilitate adjustment for proper positive engagement in the transmission. Before you loosen them, use a grease pen or marker or even a quick blip of spray paint over them to highlight exactly where they were. I learned the hard way the first time that it can be very frustrating when bolting that assembly back up, finishing the reinstallation of your interior, and going for a test drive only to find out that you dont have the shifter aligned just right and now can't get 2nd, 4th, or 6th gears. :'/
02-15-2011, 03:28 PM
#35
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Alright, we're ready to pull that transmission now. Be sure to check both the driver and passenger sides of the transmission for harnesses. I would assume different T56's and TR6060's will have different ones in different spots most likely, so go over it good and make sure you detach any electronic pigtails or clips or sensors or anything of that nature. My car's Z06 T56 had several. While I don't know exactly which is which, I mark where they went, and know that they likely comprise the speed sensor, reverse lockout sensor, etc. Just make sure you've disconnected them all and moved them out of the way.
Now, looking up at the transmission, we'll have yet another 8 bolts that fasten it, but to the torque tube this time. Before you go anywhere else, be sure to support the torque tube itself with a jack, in prep for the transmission coming off. Remember, there's nothing else supporting the drivetrain now other than the jack you have holding up the transmission!
Move around the circumference and loosen each of the bolts. As before, if needed, use a light rocking/pulling (or even a pry bar) to lightly create some separation between the tranny and torque tube. It should separate fairly easily. With this done, and the tranny supported, remove each of the bolts. There are a pair of alignment dowels on either side of the housing just near the outermost left/right bolts that help hold the tranny on without any bolts. However, they're only about 1/2" or less in length, so be careful.
The tranny's input shaft doesn't have to slide very far to disengage from the torque tube and driveshaft within. Perhaps several inches. Be sure to get situated nicely under it, and again, take a deep breath, tuck your knees up a bit (mostly to protect your manhood), and being sliding the transmission back and away from the torque tube. If you can comfortably keep the far end of it on the jack still supporting it, and feel that this helps you, by all means use it for support. At this stage, it's pretty much about personal preference as to how you get the tranny down. I prefer to remove the jack supporting the tranny and utilize myself instead. Once all the bolts are out, I take a deep breath, get ready for a big lift, and pull the tranny away from the torque tube, lowering it slowly onto my stomach, and wiggle-worming out from under the car while holding it. By the way, if you have a creeper and room to use it, and even better, a dolly next to you to lay the trans on, more power to you.
Now go for it! When it comes off, be careful to move straight back and don't forget about that shift rod that will be coming through it's own special cutout in the bell housing. When it comes off, you'll see this below (also use this photo as a reference for the attachment points and alignment dowels that secure the trans to the torque tube, so you can find all the bolts):
Here, as a reminder, you can clearly see where I positioned my floor jack in order to support the torque tube prior to pulling the tranny back. Also, for those doing fuel pumps, tucked above those two big silver heat shields are your saddle tanks, and your jet pump transfer tube running above and between the two.
Just know that before attempting these lifts that the transmission weighs probably somewhere around 120lbs, and the differential probably about 80 or 90. Those are my rough guesses. They're not light at all, and if you don't maintain positive control of them with slow, deliberate movements, they can and will break bones and gash you open if they drop.
Be extremely careful lowering these parts down from the car, especially if it's just you under there. Most grown men should have no problem supporting 125lbs over their mid section in a bench press fashion. All it takes is being ready for the weight, being confident, being calm, and staying alert.
Next installment we'll move onto the torque tube.
Now, looking up at the transmission, we'll have yet another 8 bolts that fasten it, but to the torque tube this time. Before you go anywhere else, be sure to support the torque tube itself with a jack, in prep for the transmission coming off. Remember, there's nothing else supporting the drivetrain now other than the jack you have holding up the transmission!
Move around the circumference and loosen each of the bolts. As before, if needed, use a light rocking/pulling (or even a pry bar) to lightly create some separation between the tranny and torque tube. It should separate fairly easily. With this done, and the tranny supported, remove each of the bolts. There are a pair of alignment dowels on either side of the housing just near the outermost left/right bolts that help hold the tranny on without any bolts. However, they're only about 1/2" or less in length, so be careful.
The tranny's input shaft doesn't have to slide very far to disengage from the torque tube and driveshaft within. Perhaps several inches. Be sure to get situated nicely under it, and again, take a deep breath, tuck your knees up a bit (mostly to protect your manhood), and being sliding the transmission back and away from the torque tube. If you can comfortably keep the far end of it on the jack still supporting it, and feel that this helps you, by all means use it for support. At this stage, it's pretty much about personal preference as to how you get the tranny down. I prefer to remove the jack supporting the tranny and utilize myself instead. Once all the bolts are out, I take a deep breath, get ready for a big lift, and pull the tranny away from the torque tube, lowering it slowly onto my stomach, and wiggle-worming out from under the car while holding it. By the way, if you have a creeper and room to use it, and even better, a dolly next to you to lay the trans on, more power to you.
Now go for it! When it comes off, be careful to move straight back and don't forget about that shift rod that will be coming through it's own special cutout in the bell housing. When it comes off, you'll see this below (also use this photo as a reference for the attachment points and alignment dowels that secure the trans to the torque tube, so you can find all the bolts):
Here, as a reminder, you can clearly see where I positioned my floor jack in order to support the torque tube prior to pulling the tranny back. Also, for those doing fuel pumps, tucked above those two big silver heat shields are your saddle tanks, and your jet pump transfer tube running above and between the two.
Just know that before attempting these lifts that the transmission weighs probably somewhere around 120lbs, and the differential probably about 80 or 90. Those are my rough guesses. They're not light at all, and if you don't maintain positive control of them with slow, deliberate movements, they can and will break bones and gash you open if they drop.
Be extremely careful lowering these parts down from the car, especially if it's just you under there. Most grown men should have no problem supporting 125lbs over their mid section in a bench press fashion. All it takes is being ready for the weight, being confident, being calm, and staying alert.
Next installment we'll move onto the torque tube.
Last edited by SlickShoes; 02-11-2015 at 01:36 PM.
02-15-2011, 03:36 PM
#37
Tech Contributor
02-15-2011, 04:18 PM
#38
_Sloth Whisperer_
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You're not going to believe this..................
Just as a little "FYI", when you have clutch fluid all over the ground on the side of the highway, before you spend a day loading the car up on a flatbed little by little, towing it to a your place of wrenching, pulling the rear suspension, differential, transmission, torque tube, and interior out of your car.........
Be sure to check your clutch bleeder screw to ensure it didnt just come loose.
Just as a little "FYI", when you have clutch fluid all over the ground on the side of the highway, before you spend a day loading the car up on a flatbed little by little, towing it to a your place of wrenching, pulling the rear suspension, differential, transmission, torque tube, and interior out of your car.........
Be sure to check your clutch bleeder screw to ensure it didnt just come loose.
02-15-2011, 05:00 PM
#39
you're not going to believe this..................
Just as a little "fyi", when you have clutch fluid all over the ground on the side of the highway, before you spend a day loading the car up on a flatbed little by little, towing it to a your place of wrenching, pulling the rear suspension, differential, transmission, torque tube, and interior out of your car.........
be sure to check your clutch bleeder screw to ensure it didnt just come loose.
Just as a little "fyi", when you have clutch fluid all over the ground on the side of the highway, before you spend a day loading the car up on a flatbed little by little, towing it to a your place of wrenching, pulling the rear suspension, differential, transmission, torque tube, and interior out of your car.........
be sure to check your clutch bleeder screw to ensure it didnt just come loose.
