Originally Posted by SlickShoes

Going back through again and fixing pics! Trying to get to them all tonight.


The pics kind of suck. I did this all a few years ago with a cell phone cam, and cell phone cams weren't that good yet in '09 or so when I bought that phone.


EDIT****** Pics fixed.

Originally Posted by SlickShoes

EDIT****** Pics fixed.

Originally Posted by SlickShoes

Now, here's what we're working with:



And here's the rear suspension, which has to be partially disconnected. We're going to remove the upper A-arm bolts at the frame, as well as the upper coilover bolts, which will allow the suspension to separate from the car. (I understand most of you won't have coilovers. Substitute that step for unbolting your shocks, and the leaf springs will be self-explanitory, as they're just held in by a pair of brackets at the bottom of the spring).

The lower A-arms will stay bolted to the suspension cradle (the large, aluminum, square apparatus that holds them [and the diff] in place). When we do this, we will also have to disconnect the parking brake cables, the ABS sensors, and remove the brake calipers from the caliper brackets. The calipers will be secured up and out of the way, with brake lines never needing to be disconnected, preventing extra work. This of course needs to be accomplished at both sides of the vehicle. Be sure to follow each harness up and around the cradle, as there are multiple attachment points to the cradle itself to secure them all. They're often little ribbed pegs that need popped out kind of like interior panels. If you have an F55 car, now is the time to disconnect the ride sensors and associated pigtails.




Alright, now that we looked at how we're going to disconnect the suspension, lets look at what mounts that entire rear suspension cradle in place. About dead center in this first picture, and upper left center in the second picture, is a vertical nut/bolt that fastens the cradle to the frame rail. There are four of these; two at the back of the cradle (first pic) and two more at the front of the cradle (second pic). These need to be loosened, but not removed just yet.






However, before we can drop the cradle, we need to make sure it's not still attached to the differential, which it serves as the support for. Notice in this photo near the upper left of the pic the two nut/bolts protruding downward, and the other similar two off in the background near the bottom of the pic. These four bolts are what secure the differential to the cradle.



...next post coming up in a moment.

Originally Posted by mark mc williams

I know it has been while i cant seem to open the pictures, can you tell me can the transmission be removed without removing the torque tube. and how does the metal brake line going under the rear end on the cradle slide out from under the rear differential. can i leave the transmission and rear differential attached to the cradle when removing the cradle. and then take the transsmision off the cradle, thank you mark

Originally Posted by CI GS

Yes, at least with the A6 drivetrain, the transmission can be removed without removing the torque tube. You still need to take off the tunnel plate, because you will have to lower the diff/trans assembly to get to the bell housing bolts.
The metal brake line going to the rear passenger caliper can be unscrewed on the drivers side (there's a coupler where the line runs up from the cradle to the chassis in front of the left axle - see picture below) and the right rear caliper can then remain on the cradle assembly, whilst the left caliper can be left hanging on the car. Be sure to place a small plastic bag over the end of the disconnected brake line on the car and zip tie it on tight, as there will be brake fluid gravitating from the master cylinder the whole time you have it disassembled.
I think there is no way that you can take the whole cradle and rear drivetrain off in one go, as the cradle will prohibit you from getting to drivetrain bolts etc. I looked at doing that myself, as I only had one transmission jack, and you need one to remove the cradle assembly and one for the diff/transmission assembly. In the end I decided to just drop the cradle and figure out how to get it off the jack safely, and then go back at the diff and then the transmission. I changed the diff and converter in my A6 by myself, without any help, but it took a lot of back ache and cursing to get there. After you've done it once, you realise how simple it is to do. Subfloor's instructions were an immense help, and I wouldn't have even attempted it without his instructions.

Originally Posted by mark mc williams

Thank you for the picture and info, how do i find subfloor's instruction's. mark

Originally Posted by mark mc williams

also can this be done without unhooking the drivers side brake line if i drop the cradle first, then the transmission. thank you mark

Originally Posted by schpenxel

I'm sure it can be done with enough man power.

You could always get one from harbor freight and take it back if you really don't want to spend the money.

Originally Posted by mark mc williams

ok, thank you for all your help. mark

Originally Posted by mark mc williams

I have a question i have everything done and the transmission unbolted and on a transmssion jack, but i have 1 transmssion line that hook's on in front of the transmission bell housing it goes in to the side of the bell housing to the transmssion on the passenger side of the transsmsion, can i un hook it at the transmission if i pull the transmssion away from the housing some this seems like the only way to get to the line bolt, the only other way to remove this line off the transmssion would be at the front of the car it looks like. it looks like it is hard to get to this bolt on the transmission to remove this line the line is kinda L shaped and i can only pull the transsmission out so far before the L on the line hits the bell housing, this line is the only thing left attached thank you mark

Originally Posted by schpenxel

If you can get some space between the transmission and torque tube you'll be able to disconnect it. There's a plastic cap you have to pop out of the way first. Then there's a spring clip thing underneath that that you'll need a pick or something to get off. It doesn't take much to get it out.

The connector looks kind of like this.. just so you can get an idea what the clip looks like. Just grab the middle of the clip with a pick and pull and it should slide right out.

The connection at the front uses basically the same clips.. so not too bad to unhook it up there if needed.

Originally Posted by mark mc williams

Great ! perfect ! with these transmission lines unhooked and reinstalled do i have to do anything special when i fill the transmssion with fluid, or do i just fill it to the top of the hole. thank you mark

Originally Posted by mark mc williams

Thank you for the picture and info, how do i find subfloor's instruction's. mark

Originally Posted by mark mc williams

I have a question i have everything done and the transmission unbolted and on a transmssion jack, but i have 1 transmssion line that hook's on in front of the transmission bell housing it goes in to the side of the bell housing to the transmssion on the passenger side of the transsmsion, can i un hook it at the transmission if i pull the transmssion away from the housing some this seems like the only way to get to the line bolt, the only other way to remove this line off the transmssion would be at the front of the car it looks like. it looks like it is hard to get to this bolt on the transmission to remove this line the line is kinda L shaped and i can only pull the transsmission out so far before the L on the line hits the bell housing, this line is the only thing left attached thank you mark

Originally Posted by SlickShoes

Going back through again and fixing pics! Trying to get to them all tonight.


The pics kind of suck. I did this all a few years ago with a cell phone cam, and cell phone cams weren't that good yet in '09 or so when I bought that phone.


EDIT****** Pics fixed.