LS2 guy looking for Spin's advice on a cam
#41
Burning Brakes
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Maybe I missed it (which is always a possibility with me) but is your car an A6 or MN6?
Last edited by revo1059; 03-16-2011 at 11:42 AM. Reason: Kant spel
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I've gone back and forth with the FAST 102 vs. porting the stocker. The $400 difference for possibly 15 X-tra hp just isn't appealing enough... for me anyhow. The porting and other mods should be enough to put me where I prefer to be while still keeping the factory appearance and drive-ability. Although it wasn't in your sig, did you replace your factory balancer with an aftermarket one during the cam swap?
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as much as 43 RW difference but I forgot what RPM that was. If I can find the sheet I'll post it. Most phenomenal. I also only got 5-7 RW going from
a ported 90 to a ported 102.
#44
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I personally wasn't willing to become another C6 crank pulley victim so I replaced my stock unit for a 10% UD from Powerbond, $180 for an SFI approved unit seemed like a good idea. Had money not been a concern I would have gone with an ATI Superdamper but it just wasn't in the cards (they cost around $440).
Pushrods are a must with a cam swap, purchasing a quality spring that matches the aggressiveness of the cam grind is also a good thing IMO. I did not change the stock oil pump but did upgrade the stock LS2 timing chain with the Katech chain.
The Fast is only $550-$600 after you sell your stocker, you will pick up more HP per dollar than almost anything else so why do it twice meaning taking off the stocker and putting a ported LS2 mani back on?
I picked up 18/21 at the tires over my ported LS2 unit with just bolt-ons. My 102 Fast is stock out of the box (unported)
Pushrods are a must with a cam swap, purchasing a quality spring that matches the aggressiveness of the cam grind is also a good thing IMO. I did not change the stock oil pump but did upgrade the stock LS2 timing chain with the Katech chain.
The Fast is only $550-$600 after you sell your stocker, you will pick up more HP per dollar than almost anything else so why do it twice meaning taking off the stocker and putting a ported LS2 mani back on?
I picked up 18/21 at the tires over my ported LS2 unit with just bolt-ons. My 102 Fast is stock out of the box (unported)
#46
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Since this thread is hijacking a bit toward the intake manifold, did anyone dyno a ported stock manifold without having new heads? I have a mild cam, LT headers, CAI and am curious if I'm gaining anything from my ported manifold or if it was a lame upgrade in hindsight.
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The Fast is only $550-$600 after you sell your stocker, you will pick up more HP per dollar than almost anything else so why do it twice meaning taking off the stocker and putting a ported LS2 mani back on?
I picked up 18/21 at the tires over my ported LS2 unit with just bolt-ons. My 102 Fast is stock out of the box (unported)[/QUOTE]
Keep going, you've almost got me convinced..Did you use the stock, unported TB with this as well? "Radical" IM porting from what I'm told is good for 15-25 HP. For the $$ that's about $13 per. The high side as it sounds from most is +30 for the Fast vs. unported LS2. @ $800 cost that's almost $26 per hp. Not really on a budget with this just attempting to stay realistic with the HP. I mean, at what point do you stop modding for every last fraction of attainable gains??? I know...never..
I picked up 18/21 at the tires over my ported LS2 unit with just bolt-ons. My 102 Fast is stock out of the box (unported)[/QUOTE]
Keep going, you've almost got me convinced..Did you use the stock, unported TB with this as well? "Radical" IM porting from what I'm told is good for 15-25 HP. For the $$ that's about $13 per. The high side as it sounds from most is +30 for the Fast vs. unported LS2. @ $800 cost that's almost $26 per hp. Not really on a budget with this just attempting to stay realistic with the HP. I mean, at what point do you stop modding for every last fraction of attainable gains??? I know...never..
Last edited by 3holer; 03-16-2011 at 03:28 PM. Reason: spelling
#48
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The Fast is only $550-$600 after you sell your stocker, you will pick up more HP per dollar than almost anything else so why do it twice meaning taking off the stocker and putting a ported LS2 mani back on?
I picked up 18/21 at the tires over my ported LS2 unit with just bolt-ons. My 102 Fast is stock out of the box (unported)
I picked up 18/21 at the tires over my ported LS2 unit with just bolt-ons. My 102 Fast is stock out of the box (unported)
I had the same ported LS2 throttle body on both intakes, your missing the $ part a little...if you purchase a 102 Fast it will cost around $825 shipped to your house, when you sell your LS2 intake for $250 (example amount) you are now at an out of pocket amount of $575.
Your gains over a stock LS2 IM VS an unported Fast IM with just the main bolt-ons will be around 25 rwhp and 28 rwtq.
#49
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Been a while since I chimed in, but here's what I decided to go with...
Spin's 230/234 114+2 cam
Full CNC'd stock heads at Advanced Induction
PSI dual springs
Kateck timing chain
Cosmetic 0.040 gaskets and milled heads to get 11.7 CR ("sweet spot" for Spin's cam)
ASP 25% UD pulley
Debating on 42/46# injectors. I think I may run out of fuel (or close to it) with these mods. My first tune had 89% duty cycle at 386 Hp.
Still trying to figure out what length pushrods to buy - 7.400 or 7.425. Any recommendations?
Heads reomved yesterday and shipped out this morning. The driver side head was more work than I anticipated. Didn't realize I was gonna have to pull the PS pump just to get the heads off. Now I wait a few weeks to get everything back. Should have it tuned some time in May. I'm betting on 70-80 rwph after the tune.
Sean
Spin's 230/234 114+2 cam
Full CNC'd stock heads at Advanced Induction
PSI dual springs
Kateck timing chain
Cosmetic 0.040 gaskets and milled heads to get 11.7 CR ("sweet spot" for Spin's cam)
ASP 25% UD pulley
Debating on 42/46# injectors. I think I may run out of fuel (or close to it) with these mods. My first tune had 89% duty cycle at 386 Hp.
Still trying to figure out what length pushrods to buy - 7.400 or 7.425. Any recommendations?
Heads reomved yesterday and shipped out this morning. The driver side head was more work than I anticipated. Didn't realize I was gonna have to pull the PS pump just to get the heads off. Now I wait a few weeks to get everything back. Should have it tuned some time in May. I'm betting on 70-80 rwph after the tune.
Sean
#50
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Been a while since I chimed in, but here's what I decided to go with...
Spin's 230/234 114+2 cam
Full CNC'd stock heads at Advanced Induction
PSI dual springs
Kateck timing chain
Cosmetic 0.040 gaskets and milled heads to get 11.7 CR ("sweet spot" for Spin's cam)
ASP 25% UD pulley
Debating on 42/46# injectors. I think I may run out of fuel (or close to it) with these mods. My first tune had 89% duty cycle at 386 Hp.
Still trying to figure out what length pushrods to buy - 7.400 or 7.425. Any recommendations?
Heads reomved yesterday and shipped out this morning. The driver side head was more work than I anticipated. Didn't realize I was gonna have to pull the PS pump just to get the heads off. Now I wait a few weeks to get everything back. Should have it tuned some time in May. I'm betting on 70-80 rwph after the tune.
Sean
Spin's 230/234 114+2 cam
Full CNC'd stock heads at Advanced Induction
PSI dual springs
Kateck timing chain
Cosmetic 0.040 gaskets and milled heads to get 11.7 CR ("sweet spot" for Spin's cam)
ASP 25% UD pulley
Debating on 42/46# injectors. I think I may run out of fuel (or close to it) with these mods. My first tune had 89% duty cycle at 386 Hp.
Still trying to figure out what length pushrods to buy - 7.400 or 7.425. Any recommendations?
Heads reomved yesterday and shipped out this morning. The driver side head was more work than I anticipated. Didn't realize I was gonna have to pull the PS pump just to get the heads off. Now I wait a few weeks to get everything back. Should have it tuned some time in May. I'm betting on 70-80 rwph after the tune.
Sean
#51
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Been a while since I chimed in, but here's what I decided to go with...
Spin's 230/234 114+2 cam
Full CNC'd stock heads at Advanced Induction
PSI dual springs
Kateck timing chain
Cosmetic 0.040 gaskets and milled heads to get 11.7 CR ("sweet spot" for Spin's cam)
ASP 25% UD pulley
Debating on 42/46# injectors. I think I may run out of fuel (or close to it) with these mods. My first tune had 89% duty cycle at 386 Hp.
Still trying to figure out what length pushrods to buy - 7.400 or 7.425. Any recommendations?
Heads reomved yesterday and shipped out this morning. The driver side head was more work than I anticipated. Didn't realize I was gonna have to pull the PS pump just to get the heads off. Now I wait a few weeks to get everything back. Should have it tuned some time in May. I'm betting on 70-80 rwph after the tune.
Sean
Spin's 230/234 114+2 cam
Full CNC'd stock heads at Advanced Induction
PSI dual springs
Kateck timing chain
Cosmetic 0.040 gaskets and milled heads to get 11.7 CR ("sweet spot" for Spin's cam)
ASP 25% UD pulley
Debating on 42/46# injectors. I think I may run out of fuel (or close to it) with these mods. My first tune had 89% duty cycle at 386 Hp.
Still trying to figure out what length pushrods to buy - 7.400 or 7.425. Any recommendations?
Heads reomved yesterday and shipped out this morning. The driver side head was more work than I anticipated. Didn't realize I was gonna have to pull the PS pump just to get the heads off. Now I wait a few weeks to get everything back. Should have it tuned some time in May. I'm betting on 70-80 rwph after the tune.
Sean
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Spin should be able to tell you the pr length better than us but I will say that AI will deck them to be sure they're straight (correct?) so I would go with 7.4 myself but for $20 you can get a pr length checker and confirm it, shame to guess with such a thought out build.
#52
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Spin's 230/234 114+2 cam
Full CNC'd stock heads at Advanced Induction
PSI dual springs
Kateck timing chain
Cosmetic 0.040 gaskets and milled heads to get 11.7 CR ("sweet spot" for Spin's cam)
ASP 25% UD pulley
Still trying to figure out what length pushrods to buy - 7.400 or 7.425. Any recommendations?
Heads reomved yesterday and shipped out this morning. The driver side head was more work than I anticipated. Didn't realize I was gonna have to pull the PS pump just to get the heads off. Now I wait a few weeks to get everything back. Should have it tuned some time in May. I'm betting on 70-80 rwph after the tune.
Sean[/QUOTE]
Sean, I'm virtually doing the same build with my LS2. With regard to your .040 head gaskets and the cam, have you/are you going to check PTV clearance prior to firing this motor? From what I've gathered anything over .600 lift (along with the duration#'s) has the potential for disaster. I planned on going the same route, however, want to be absolutely sure I'm not going to smack a valve @ rpm. I'll also be checking for proper PR length once I get my heads, but since your milling yours, my #'s most likely will be useless to you.
I've posed these very questions to Spin and will let you know what his response is when I receive feedback.
What mods put you @ the 386hp result?
Side note: This forum is a priceless source of information. I cannot even fathom doing such a technically driven project like this without all the write-ups, comments and notes from those who have ventured down this path prior to individuals like myself! It pained me to think about pulling down a 5000 mile Corvette engine....until I read about the improvement opportunities with this motor. Truly grateful..
Full CNC'd stock heads at Advanced Induction
PSI dual springs
Kateck timing chain
Cosmetic 0.040 gaskets and milled heads to get 11.7 CR ("sweet spot" for Spin's cam)
ASP 25% UD pulley
Still trying to figure out what length pushrods to buy - 7.400 or 7.425. Any recommendations?
Heads reomved yesterday and shipped out this morning. The driver side head was more work than I anticipated. Didn't realize I was gonna have to pull the PS pump just to get the heads off. Now I wait a few weeks to get everything back. Should have it tuned some time in May. I'm betting on 70-80 rwph after the tune.
Sean[/QUOTE]
Sean, I'm virtually doing the same build with my LS2. With regard to your .040 head gaskets and the cam, have you/are you going to check PTV clearance prior to firing this motor? From what I've gathered anything over .600 lift (along with the duration#'s) has the potential for disaster. I planned on going the same route, however, want to be absolutely sure I'm not going to smack a valve @ rpm. I'll also be checking for proper PR length once I get my heads, but since your milling yours, my #'s most likely will be useless to you.
I've posed these very questions to Spin and will let you know what his response is when I receive feedback.
What mods put you @ the 386hp result?
Side note: This forum is a priceless source of information. I cannot even fathom doing such a technically driven project like this without all the write-ups, comments and notes from those who have ventured down this path prior to individuals like myself! It pained me to think about pulling down a 5000 mile Corvette engine....until I read about the improvement opportunities with this motor. Truly grateful..
#53
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Phil at Advanced Induction has offered to cam doctor the cam and set the valve seats to whatever depth will ensure proper PTV clearance. He is a great guy to work with. He spoke with me for about an hour last week discussing head and cam philosophy. He will recommend the right pushrod length, but just wanted to bouncethe idea off you guys to see ofthe answers were consistent.
My existing mods are LG headers, Formatto stage 2 ported intake / TB, WCC hurricane intake and Borla exhaust. The 386/393 was on a mustang dyno, which I have heard reads low compared with a Dynojet.
3holer, I would be curious to see what you are doing as well. And I agree about this forum - incredibly valuable info on this. Rebuilt my torque tube last month after doing research here.
Sean
My existing mods are LG headers, Formatto stage 2 ported intake / TB, WCC hurricane intake and Borla exhaust. The 386/393 was on a mustang dyno, which I have heard reads low compared with a Dynojet.
3holer, I would be curious to see what you are doing as well. And I agree about this forum - incredibly valuable info on this. Rebuilt my torque tube last month after doing research here.
Sean
#54
Track Junky
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Jayplay, thanks for the vote of confidence. It took a bit of nerves opening up the engine yesterday. I've never gone that deep into a car before, but I hear the cam and heads install isn't as hard as the TT rebuild I went through lastmonth... Did it alone in a my garage on jack stands.
#55
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Jayplay, thanks for the vote of confidence. It took a bit of nerves opening up the engine yesterday. I've never gone that deep into a car before, but I hear the cam and heads install isn't as hard as the TT rebuild I went through lastmonth... Did it alone in a my garage on jack stands.
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You're only about an hour away if you run into problems, give me a call if you need anything but you sound like a sharp guy so I wouldn't be the slightest bit worried you'll get it back together just fine-
#56
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I'm an engineer by trade but a mechanic at heart. I would much rather buy the tools and fix it myself than pay somebody else to do the work for me. Where's the fun in that?
#57
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My existing mods are LG headers, Formatto stage 2 ported intake / TB, WCC hurricane intake and Borla exhaust. The 386/393 was on a mustang dyno, which I have heard reads low compared with a Dynojet.
3holer, I would be curious to see what you are doing as well. And I agree about this forum - incredibly valuable info on this. Rebuilt my torque tube last month after doing research here.
I'm starting with an untouched motor and decided to do all the mods at once to save trips to the dyno. The mods are as follows...
Kooks 1 3/4" headers w/catted x-pipe
Blackwing CAI
Livernois ported 243's
Spin's 230xfi cam
Katech chain
SLP 25% UD
Peak speed ported IM and TB
...and all the accompanying accessories
Just put the new cam in and had to end the night early as I'll now need a 3 bolt cam gear before I can begin the degreeing process. Realistic or not, I'm hoping for somewhere in the neighborhood of 470-480 rwhp.
3holer, I would be curious to see what you are doing as well. And I agree about this forum - incredibly valuable info on this. Rebuilt my torque tube last month after doing research here.
I'm starting with an untouched motor and decided to do all the mods at once to save trips to the dyno. The mods are as follows...
Kooks 1 3/4" headers w/catted x-pipe
Blackwing CAI
Livernois ported 243's
Spin's 230xfi cam
Katech chain
SLP 25% UD
Peak speed ported IM and TB
...and all the accompanying accessories
Just put the new cam in and had to end the night early as I'll now need a 3 bolt cam gear before I can begin the degreeing process. Realistic or not, I'm hoping for somewhere in the neighborhood of 470-480 rwhp.
#59
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The heads are their Stage II's, stock valve size unless I jump to the Stage 3's. In the many conversations I've had with them, the stage 2 "kit" typically nets about 100-110 hp. This is with a bit smaller cam than Spins. In the Detroit area, this shop is well known for producing some of the most wicked fast cars around. In the 90's their forte was definitely with the 5.0 liter crowd (of which I had the unfortunate experience of losing to those damn things with my BB Chevelle) They've been in the GM brand now for quite awhile and have some very good feedback from the local LSX crowd around these parts...We'll see...
#60
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3holer,
With an LS3 I would bet you would exceed those numbers. With an LS2, you're probably in the ballpark. I'm aiming for 460-470 rwph since I'm on a mustang dyno (and started at 386 rwhp). Good luck with the build!
With an LS3 I would bet you would exceed those numbers. With an LS2, you're probably in the ballpark. I'm aiming for 460-470 rwph since I'm on a mustang dyno (and started at 386 rwhp). Good luck with the build!