ShaWING66

My AC works and my car's coolant levels stay around 180 when im moving but as soon as i stop my AC starts to die and my temps slowly rise... Anyone else have this same problem?

Also, im having trouble locating the wire that notoriously burns out... any help?

THE BLACK WIDOW

Having the same issue here.. center ground wire in the harness was burnt so we did a temp bypass but temps have still been a little high. trying to get a hold of a new fan controller and harness. Might also look into the twin spal fans that Randy at Ragin Racing sells.. buddy put them on his twin turbo vette and it runs very cool now.

J

DSOMC6

Well I just joined this club.

Carl's way seems to be the quick fix rather than wait for a 3 bay weather-proof connector to be shipped from where ever the heck they carry them.

DSOMC6

Edit - - - - -

BluV

Ouch! I got burned!




I just wired around it - did not bother with replacing the connecter.

Added data points just in case anyone is interested:

I have a tune, however I tuned it myself, so I know for fact that my fan has never been set in the tune higher than 90%. So I do not think this is the issue all by itself. In my tune, 192deg is set to 25%, then goes to 90% for the rest of the cells. My failure occured during an HPDE type of event (I have done several in this car). My thermostat was going bad unknowingly. I think the fan was overcompensating on track for the thermostat. As a comparison, the new thermostat (same brand/model) opened 4 times wider than the bad one when immersed in boiling water on the stove -- so I know the thermo was bad. The rest is conjecture.

Bill Dearborn

I don't think the thermostat going bad would have caused the fan circuit to fail. Once you are above 35 mph or so if you just bypassed the connector and left the controller control the fan it would have shut off since the air coming through the radiator is moving faster than the fan can move it. If the fan is turned on it will actually slow down the air flow.

Bill

crease-guard

I just joined this club with my fan not working as well. I haven't had a chance to look at things but I suspect my problem is the same as everyone elses.

Bill brings up a good point about the fans, is there a program in the cars computer that shuts the fans off above a certain speed? Bill mentioned 35 mph, I assume he didn't pull that number out of thin air.

Jay

mourat

Sorry re revive thread but seems like a waste creating a new one.

So the way I understand it, this actually made the car run cooler or it turned out not to?

I'm thinking of doing this except just get the controller to command the relay.

The PWM shouldn't be an issue, i'll just wire a capacitor between the relay trigger wire and the fan module that way the relay will give 100% power to the fans once the module commands it at a certain temp, and PWM should be converted to straight power using a capacitor.

BoosterClub

MAYBE vs no fan being there at all, but it's not slowing it down vs not running.

Ahmer

I have a quick question. So I noticed that for a spilt second my fan powered up to full and then spontaneously went to low again... Could this be a bad connection as well???

MBB

Welp after being louder than my exhaust at idle for a day my fans didn't turn on this morning. I got a CEL and the temps now go up to 230 when idling after a drive. I sat in my driveway and let the car idle, it got up to 200 degrees within 10-15 minutes, no fans. Should my ac be working or not? I ask because it blows perfectly cold air. I'm hoping it's just the connector.

EVRose

My fan doesnt seem to be working either although I dont see temps over 220. I thought the fan should be on over 205° but its not coming on. I checked the connector and no sign of melting or burning anywhere. I dont know which relay is involved but I pulled all of them and no sign of burning there either and the fuse tested good.

DSOMC6

I still have one OEM fan connector for $35 shipped if anyone needs one.

MBB

I fixed mine.. I used heavier duty/weather proof aftermarket connectors outside of the stock plug for positive and negative but left the signal wire in the connector. Fans work fine now, will the check engine light go off after I put some miles on the car?.

BoosterClub

.... The connectors are like a total of $8 with pins and seals... $30 for shipping?

Edit; a total of $7.86, with around $4 shipping... You can find all the parts and numbers HERE and buy them from them, or mouser, or allied electronics.....

realcanuk

I wonder why some cars have this issue, and some dont. I run my fans (stock before and dual fans now) on full at the track through a switch. I often leave them running for an hour at a time and have never had an issue with the connector. Is it a matter of time, or just certain years ?

DSOMC6

You should recheck your figures buddy. White will charge $40+ with shipping and it will take two weeks to get it shipped to you.. I'm actually losing $10 just trying to help someone out that might need a connector asap (rather than two weeks wait and still pay $40).

If you wish to order all the parts seperately and hope you get all the seals etc and still not have the oem connector, more power to you.

MBB

^Bah trying to sell a part that is known to be insufficient under the guise of keeping everything OEM is pretty crappy man. I have $6 worth of parts into my fix, and it will last longer than the OEM part. The problem is the design of the OEM connector. My buddy is an electrical engineer and he literally said, "What the hell?!?!" When he saw the design of the connector.

BoosterClub

Recheck my figures? Either you got yourself ripped off, or you're just digging yourself into a deeper hole of trying to rip others off.

From allied and mouser, that's everything, 6 seals, 6 pins (3 fem 3 male), 1 female connector, 1 male connector, and the TPA locks. Total comes to less than $8, and they ship the same day every time, and I know I get it in 2-3 days whenever I order from them.

If you would like to continue to mislead people I can post a screen shot of a shopping cart.

DSOMC6

Can you read? I purchased the connector from White. The cost is $40+ w/shipping to my area ( I don't recall the exact amt to the penny).
I don't care where YOU can purchase one nor for how much! It's a Friggen kit! It comes together as one. Please post the exact product and cost shipped to 92677 from White if you honestly think I'm tryiing to profit off a friggen connector newb. Geebuz, I was just trying to offer something for less than I paid that is sitting on my work bench collecting dust and someone may need it asap.

Here's a link to my thread where someone even comments on the price HE paid from White and RL Sebring offering $25 for it. I guess we're not as financially savy as you.
:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...brand-new.html

Btw, I've been on this forum for years, sold many things and you are the first to EVER accuse me of trying to rip someone off. Get a friggen life newb!