theVcar

Has anyone heard of removing vacuum line from MS and holding RPM at a steady 2k and very slowlt injesting sea foam into intake manifold line. When completed rev high to complete process. Or do you lose most of its carbon cleaning ability by simply just adding to fuel.
TIA

Dale1990

I've done the SeaFoam bit with other cars and was never really a fan of dumping it right into the intake. Modern EFI intakes are not designed for "wet" flow like the old carb intakes so puddling and uneven distribution is very likely.

I have had luck with just putting it in the gas tank when I'm at 1/4 tank or less and driving the car harder than normal for a few days.

theVcar

it can b very lightly sipped so air and SF mix

FloydSummerOf68

I've never done it through a vacuum line, mainly because I live in a populated neighborhood and don't want the cops called on me for how much smoke it would produce.

I pour 1/2 can in the gas and 1/2 can in oil about 100miles before an oil change though.

el es tu

they say intake manifold, oil, and fuel.

running to the intake manifold will cause the car to stutter and act like its going to die on you. this will be followed with a lot of smoke- kind of funny - it looks like the car is on fire

After seeing what zmax oil additive does to bearings, I wouldnt recommend adding seafoam to the oil either.

I hate to be the one to ask this, but why do you want to seafoam your engine? If you are worried about engine cleanliness, Id recommend doing more frequent oil changes (not waiting for the DIC to tell you the oil needs changing because oil with life to it can still have carbon) and running techron in your fuel tank.

EDIT: adding a catchcan to your pcv system will also help prevent carbon deposits

hangtime204

I can't remember if they advise you on the can, or if I read it elsewhere but it's not supposed to be in the oil for more than a week or 125 miles. I've used it in the oil and being inducted via a vacuum line, no issues - although it does smoke like a bastard so take your car somewhere rural.

1fastbob

When introducing Sea Foam or any other liquid into the engine via engine vacuum you must be very careful and keep the flow rate very small to protect from hydraulicing a cylinder. 2500 rpm seems to work well. I have Sea Foamed several vehicles and it will do a great job cleaning carbon from valves, combustion chamber and pistons. Water or transmission fluid work equally as well as Sea Foam. I just used Sea Foam cause I had it in my garage and wanted to get rid of it. I have NOT done this on my C6 Corvette, but if I beleived there to be a need to do this I would not hesitate in treating it.

Bob

Jimmy C-6

Here it is,

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...oam-spray.html

Not that I've done it.

icanski2

What he said.

timd38

Does that stuff work?

n5ifi

This a trick used on the Yamaha 1700. You actually allow the motor to die and leave it over night. Next day crank it a run it and thrash is for a while. Then change the oil and filter. It worked quite well on those motors which were plagued with carbon buildup problems. A good running, good condition small or big block chevy shouldn't really need it.
I will say this about seafoam, there is nothing out there quite like it. It works on diesel or gas motors.

Wayne88

I used Seafoam on my C4 a few times. I poured it into the brake booster hose until the car stalled. Let it sit for a few minutes and started it up. The Seafoam creates a large amount of smoke, so I did it Sunday morning in an empty industrial parking lot.

Presidentialpawn

What does Zmax do to the bearings?

jft69z

I use the GM Top Engine Cleaner Aerosol & spray it into either the PCV or brake booster vacuum lines (usually both to spread it around evenly thru the intake tract). The can says to keep the idle up a bit but like others have noted, just be careful of hydrolock. Let it sit for about 15 minutes and start engine, run at an idle for a bit to make sure it doesn't lock up & then run it up a bit to clear it out. A lot of times it will bring in a CEL when you are adding it due to a misfire condition. I just clear it with a scan tool, others may not have that option.

This helps a lot on the Chevy/GMC trucks with the 5.3 vortec engines as they tend to carbon up a lot and have misfires/drivability issues. Sometimes it takes 2 applications (Jeep 6 cylinders are bad for this also). The GM Fuel System Treatment you add to the fuel tank also helps, but Chevron Techron appears to be about the same stuff & is usually cheaper when it's on sale. Top tier gasoline also helps to keep the engines cleaner if you have it in your area.

I think the GM stance on injector cleaning and oil flushes from their TSB's is it's generally not necessary unless there is a drivability issue. Mainly because it seems all the quick lube places are hell bent on selling you all sorts of flushes when you go there.

I usually just do it on customer cars if it's needed based on diagnostics (scan tool analysis of misfires, after checking for bad wires/plugs, faulty fuel pressure regulators etc).

el es tu

it accelerates wear: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.shtm

Nightstalker Medic

I’ve been using Seafoam for many, many years now. I’ve used it in all of my vehicles gas and diesel.

- I add a can to the oil 100 miles before an oil change.
- I spray in or use the vacuum line depending on which vehicle. Let sit for 20
minutes, after go for a drive to burn it all out.
- Come back change the oil.
- Add a can to the gas tank.

All done every 5K miles.

Chichi1986

I haven't used it on my Z yet but I have added it to my 2 stroke outboard boat motor and have noticed a big difference in acceleration smoothness and get more top end and higher rpm. I might try it on my Z soon but I really dont think theres anything wrong with the car now.

wlean99

I remember on carburated engines,we would pour small amounts of water into the carb and rev the **** out of em.Cleaned out the combustion chamber as good as anything else.Ah,but things were much simpler then.

truckplay

a water drip ( h2o ) will do the same thing and it is free. get the engine to operating temperature and slowly run a water drip into the intake through a vacuum port. the steam created will clean everything and not risk damaging your emission system components.

none of this is necessary on a properly maintained car.