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How to prolong the life of your clutch

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Old 02-15-2012, 05:19 PM
  #21  
taken19
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You can do it in your gagare in 3 to 4 fifteen minute sessions. Just get an auto syringe or turkey baster and pull the old fluid out of the reservoir and replace with new fluid. Pump clutch 10-20 times and repeat. Do this 5 times, go drive for a day and do it again. Repeat until the fluid is completely clear again. Very easy to do, no need to pay someone to do it for you.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:53 PM
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ehy guys,

What about spraying some water into the clutch housing with the garden house rather than air? Would that be ok?
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by taken19 View Post
You can do it in your gagare in 3 to 4 fifteen minute sessions. Just get an auto syringe or turkey baster and pull the old fluid out of the reservoir and replace with new fluid. Pump clutch 10-20 times and repeat. Do this 5 times, go drive for a day and do it again. Repeat until the fluid is completely clear again. Very easy to do, no need to pay someone to do it for you.
Yes, several have advised that process. I think I'll probably just go that route until I can do the complete overhaul.

Thanks for the responses!!

Last edited by JaxEagle; 02-15-2012 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:03 PM
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Thread mark and THANKS for the info!!
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by taken19 View Post
You can do it in your gagare in 3 to 4 fifteen minute sessions. Just get an auto syringe or turkey baster and pull the old fluid out of the reservoir and replace with new fluid. Pump clutch 10-20 times and repeat. Do this 5 times, go drive for a day and do it again. Repeat until the fluid is completely clear again. Very easy to do, no need to pay someone to do it for you.
The Ranger method for changing/replacing the clutch fluid in the clutch reservior is very easy and periodic continuous removal/replacement of this fluid is very easy as described above. I have been doing mine for almost 5 years now. Went to CVS and asked the pharmacist assistant for the largest syringe they had available (explained to them what I was trying to do-didn't want them to think I was a drug user). CVS actually just gave me the syringes. It is large with no needle on the end, the type that one could use to give infants medicine. I use this syringe each time to suck dirty clutch fluid out of the clutch reservior and then refill it with clean fluid. Very simple and cheap to do - anyone can really. The only thing that you need to be careful of is not to get new or old clutch fluid on your paint. I just place a large old bath towel over the fender area so I don't accidentally spill fluid on any painted surfaces.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:12 AM
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Amazon sells a syringe that can hold about 4 oz of fluid with 12" or so of hose on the end for $10-15. Works great and lasts a long time. The seal will slowly degrade but my first one lasted 8-10 years.
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:16 PM
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Is there an asbestos safety issue with blowing the clutch dust out with compressed air? I seem to recall clutch disc material was full of asbestos, but that may have changed.

Next oil change, I'm pulling the plugs.
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by USAF-Vette View Post
ehy guys,

What about spraying some water into the clutch housing with the garden house rather than air? Would that be ok?
Don't spray water into there. The pressure plate fingers, clutch plate springs, and rivets are not made to get wet. If they get rusty they will not provide proper service life and could get dangerous.
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G View Post
Don't spray water into there. The pressure plate fingers, clutch plate springs, and rivets are not made to get wet. If they get rusty they will not provide proper service life and could get dangerous.
That is the very reason why I'm thinking it might not be such a good idea to remove the plastic panels.

BJK
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 07MontRedcp View Post
That is the very reason why I'm thinking it might not be such a good idea to remove the plastic panels.

BJK
I am thinking the same thing. Buy the "exhaust" ports on the back side will let some moisture into the bell housing area. The heat of the clutch assembly will most likely evaporate the limited moisture that gets in there with the covers on. Not sure the same thing would occur if the. Overs were off and the car was driven in the rain.
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ROC OUT View Post
The Ranger method for changing/replacing the clutch fluid in the clutch reservior is very easy and periodic continuous removal/replacement of this fluid is very easy as described above. I have been doing mine for almost 5 years now. Went to CVS and asked the pharmacist assistant for the largest syringe they had available (explained to them what I was trying to do-didn't want them to think I was a drug user). CVS actually just gave me the syringes. It is large with no needle on the end, the type that one could use to give infants medicine. I use this syringe each time to suck dirty clutch fluid out of the clutch reservior and then refill it with clean fluid. Very simple and cheap to do - anyone can really. The only thing that you need to be careful of is not to get new or old clutch fluid on your paint. I just place a large old bath towel over the fender area so I don't accidentally spill fluid on any painted surfaces.
This is what I am going to do this weekend. Awesome!
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by JaxEagle View Post
This is what I am going to do this weekend. Awesome!
Great, glad the information was helpful. Be sure and put the cover back on the clutch reservior after each refill before you start pumping the clutch (if you intend to do multiple fluid changes in a single session). I remove and refill the fluid in the reservoir once a month or so when it starts to get dirty. Doing this often enough after your first time avoids having to do multiple reservoir changes in a single session is what I have found. The clutch fluid stays cleaner longer.
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_g View Post
don't spray water into there. The pressure plate fingers, clutch plate springs, and rivets are not made to get wet. If they get rusty they will not provide proper service life and could get dangerous.
10-4!
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ROC OUT View Post
Great, glad the information was helpful. Be sure and put the cover back on the clutch reservior after each refill before you start pumping the clutch (if you intend to do multiple fluid changes in a single session). I remove and refill the fluid in the reservoir once a month or so when it starts to get dirty. Doing this often enough after your first time avoids having to do multiple reservoir changes in a single session is what I have found. The clutch fluid stays cleaner longer.
I ended up having company all weekend and didn't get to this project but this week I will for sure. The frequent interval is exactly what I was planning. I figured I'd do it about every 2500 miles. Maybe I should do it more often if you think once per month is the right interval.

Roughly how many large syringe pulls does it take to remove the fluid? It is a small reservoir. I only want to remove about 80% of the fluid right? I don't want to cut it close to being empty, correct?
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JaxEagle View Post
I ended up having company all weekend and didn't get to this project but this week I will for sure. The frequent interval is exactly what I was planning. I figured I'd do it about every 2500 miles. Maybe I should do it more often if you think once per month is the right interval.

Roughly how many large syringe pulls does it take to remove the fluid? It is a small reservoir. I only want to remove about 80% of the fluid right? I don't want to cut it close to being empty, correct?
I do mine before and after any hard runs on the car and it stays clean most all the time.

I empty my reservoir each time, I never have any trouble. I swirl it around first to mix up any particles, then suck it out (one syringe does it with my Mixmaster) then fill it up. Takes longer to get the supplies out of the cabinet than it does to do the job.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G View Post
I do mine before and after any hard runs on the car and it stays clean most all the time.

I empty my reservoir each time, I never have any trouble. I swirl it around first to mix up any particles, then suck it out (one syringe does it with my Mixmaster) then fill it up. Takes longer to get the supplies out of the cabinet than it does to do the job.
Answers the question exactly. Much thanks!
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:58 AM
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Any recommended clutch fluid? I'm doing this today (Ranger Method). Great write up!
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JKbride View Post
Any recommended clutch fluid? I'm doing this today (Ranger Method). Great write up!
I use Dot4 synthetic personally. It's cheap enough and I go through about 1 can per month when I'm hitting the track every week.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:51 AM
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i did this to mine over the weekend. removed the plastic pieces, cleaned it out the best i could, ported it some and changed the fluid out and it seems to be working good. i used Wilwood Extreme Performance 600 Fluid. i went out to mexico last night and beat on it hard and didn't have any problems. it was sticking to the floor bad and would not go into higher gears till you pumped the clutch some. last night it worked perfect. thats with a cam, 150 shot and on hoosier dr's. but i did notice you can smell it more but its not like burned clutch smell.
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Justinjor View Post
I use Dot4 synthetic personally. It's cheap enough and I go through about 1 can per month when I'm hitting the track every week.
What is the original stuff used? DOT3? Is it synthetic? Is it ok to combine different fluids?
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