0Fasterproms

We had a Z06 in here that we put headers on about 4K miles ago and we did most of the aforementioned method. when we checked out the reservoir after the time since we first bled it, it was as if the fluid was just put in. No dark matter and it looked perfectly clear. Just thought I should share as the customer was pleased and stated that those were "punishing miles" with numerous races on it.
Thank you
Jeremy Formato

LEAVINU

Didn't even see this before messing with mine the other day but this is EXACTLY what I did.

When I pulled the cover off on this side I noticed how big of an opening it was and felt more comfortable drilling vent holes versus leaving it out. On the starter side I was able to drill a few holes without even removing the cover. I used compressed air on each side to blow out anything loose but don't thing much fell in at all.

Larry Gonzalez

Same results here....

383

I did notice the other day while taking an old friend out for a spirited drive a "puff" of dust behind the car when shifting to third. Evidence of this working.
Thanks for the easy trick

BT03mach-1

i have had people behind me say they see smoke when i change gears and i tell them its just clutch dust.

musicmankeb

I wouldn't remove the spring, your pedal may not come out all the way properly sometimes.

Dennis50njJR

Mine been out since 08 never had a problem

383

You have that backwards. The spring helps push the pedal DOWN.

Joe_G

Actually it's an over center spring that holds it down and up.

musicmankeb

So like I said, I wouldn't remove it.

taken19

I just removed mine a couple weeks ago and it feels much more consistent. But again, I'm looking for a rather stiff clutch pedal for the track

Joe_G

I'd only remove it if your pedal is sticking down. If your pedal is fine leave it alone.

But nearly every time I go to the drag strip I remove one and every time it fixes the pedal sticking down.

383

If its an over center spring then removing it at the track would hurt the fact that the pedal sticks down because its not helping push up correct?

Joe_G

I don't understand your question, but let me state the facts a different way and see if this makes sense to you.

The spring holds the pedal to the floor and to the top of it's travel. If you disconnected the pushrod to the master cylinder you'd see what I'm taking about.

It has more tension holding it to the floor than it does holding it to the top of its travel.

The pressure plate naturally pushes the pedal back. The pedal spring helps hold the pedal to the floor to make it easier for those wearing high heels to keep the pedal down. However, when you heat the clutch/pressure plate (typically during a drag race or spirited driving exercise, and then usually only after the car is modded) and the fluid is also contaminated from clutch dust (the slave cylinder seal doesn't keep dust out as well as it should), the natural push back of the pressure plate is diminished...and the slave cylinder isn't transferring the dirty fluid as well as it should be...then the pedal spring is strong enough to keep the pedal to the floor.

The only reason it holds the pedal to the top of its travel is that the master cylinder fluid transfer port is at the top of the pedal travel. If you somehow kept the pedal from reaching the top of its travel you'd never transfer your fluid and your fluid in your slave cylinder would be really nasty with clutch dust and gum up the works (thus leading to stuck pedal syndrome).

In practice the pressure plate keeps the pedal at the top of it's travel without the spring.

JUIC3D

^ to add to this.

For those who remove the pedal spring, it's a good idea to gently pull up on the pedal with your toe every so often to make sure you are circulating the fluid.

I just did a complete flush/bleed/fill on my hydraulic system and the car would not go into gear with the motor running. I reach down with my hand to pull up on the pedal and felt a little gurgle as the air bubble was freed and my pedal was returned to full operation.

07MontRedcp

Correct, the "top-off" port for the salve is only exposed at the very top of the clutch pedal travel.

BJK

ttbestas

just wanna let everyone know that removing those 2 plastic covers really helped me. The clutch was slipping, removal of the pedal spring, changing clutch fluid didint help, but after getting more fresh air to cool the clutch down, seems to do the trick. Probably i still need new clucth, but it let me borrow some time. Thanks

Liner

Just a quick comment about adding a remote bleeder. Someone awhile back posted about installing one without dropping the trans, so I thought I'd try it. It is indeed a PITA, but it can be done (unless you have gorilla hands). Not much room to work and you have to do it by feel with stubby wrenches. The bleeder I got was from rpm motors and the bleeder end is two pieces, which makes it easier to do. One piece is a short adapter, which makes it easier to thread into the bleeder hole, then you thread the bleed cable on. My fingers are pretty banged up, but I got it done in a couple hours.

Since I'm still up on jacks, I'm gonna see about removing or drilling those plastic panels!

07MontRedcp

Let us know how that goes. I have me car up on jacks and was also eyeing those panels.

BJK

swvalleyguy

Great idea. A lot of mechanical devices are this way. Get debris out and life and performance go up. Not at all worried about a few drops of water. Centrifugal effects will keep water from hanging around and not worried about superficial layer of rust.