taken19

Since I lost my motor due to a timing chain break last weekend, I have a deposit on an LS3 dry sump motor. I understand that the swap will require a module to convert 58 tooth reluctor wheel info to 24 tooth info and an adapter to the MAP sensor, both relatively inexpensive.

Could those of you familiar with this project chime in to provide details of the items I mentioned above as well as any other issued I may face? I know that I will need to relocate the battery to the trunk for the dry sump tank. Please be as detailed as possible with any info.

- Are all sensor locations on the block similar with the same plugs
- will the new LS3 TB create any problems in tunung and are the connectors the same?
- any information on MAF swaps? I hear that this can be a problem as well.

Spin, your name was specifically mentioned in a PM from a moderator... would you mind educating me?

SimpleC6

Sorry I can't help you out, and but I'd like to kindly request pics of this process and any snags you run into, as I might be doing this in the future.

C7&7

I recently switched from the LS2 MAF to the LS7 / LS3 style MAF and have not had any issues. It's just a $40 harness and some tuning.

The TB I am pretty sure is the same connector, but I do not know what else needs to change in the tune, etc.

I am not 100% sure about the sensors, but I would probably bet they're identical with the exception of any dry sump sensors? Oil level might be different with the dry sump.

taken19

I will try to capture as many lessons learned along the way and post once she is up and running again.

taken19

Thanks for the info. Do you have vendor and part number information for the MAF harness?

JUIC3D

I think Casper Electronics sells it Sean

taken19

Thanks Justin. I will look into it.

C7&7

Yup, that's where mine came from. Found one a little cheaper from an online "auction" site.

JUIC3D

As with 02 extensions--at least in my opinion, I'd rather not skimp and take the risk that the plug is not OEM quality.

I know Caspers uses OEM connectors and the correct wire etc for all of their harnesses and adapters.

Just my $.02 though

taken19

For those interested, got this straight from LG this morning....

"Ok so yeah there would be a few things,
*
1 crank wheel is different
2 cam pick up is different on that car so you would have to change the cam gear on the engine
3 I believe you have to change the MAP harness
4. You’ll have to re-wire if you want to use the LS3 MAF, or you can retain the stock one
5. Move the battery
6 install the tank and mounts…have to drill and use a nutzert in the frame for one or two of the mounts
7 oil cooler
*
Program the PCM…
*
Other than that…direct drop in mounts are the same, TB is the same, and I believe almost all of the accessories are the same.* The water pump is different on that car so you would need a different upper and lower radiator hose but the rest should be the same."

Seems to be no significant surprises that I hadn't already heard about. I have a friend at GM doing an independent backup of this info, should have confirmation by mid next week.

JUIC3D

Sounds great Sean. Any idea when you'll be doing it?

On a side note, I think my clutch is officially done. Tried to make some passes at the track last night but it stuck to the floor on 2 of the 3 attempts. Any burnout heats the clutch up enough to have it fail. On my last pass I didnt even do a burnout. I just scrubbed the mickeys off real quick and still cut a 1.59 60' on my way to a 10.8@128. I'm looking into a Mcleod RXT

taken19

Justin, gonna try to have the old motor out in the next 2 weeks. Won't have the new motor til the first week in April so by mid April it should be in. I have vacation right about that time, to it works out well. Maybe we can squeeze in a quick clutch job then as well.

JUIC3D

Sounds like a plan. Just in time for the summer to arrive.
Where did you get your LS3 Drysump motor? GMPP?

taken19

Found a forum vendor who was pulling the motor from his 2012 GS. Got it much cheaper than GMPP and he is keeping the water pump, intake, TB, MAF, injectors and fuel rails on the motor for me. Makes the job almost entirely a direct swap.

JUIC3D

That's pretty sweet. It's almost destined to be. Any plans for a more effective aftermarket drysump system while the motor is out? Airirad(spelling) or something?

taken19

No, the wife is already having a heart attack on spending this much for this unplanned "mod"...

My 230/234 cam won't work in it either without fly cutting the pistons. I think the CAI, headers and tune will put me about 430 rwhp, 55 shy of what I had. Probably a good time to slow down with the power adders and truly focus on being a better driver on the track. On my crappy heat cycled out PS2's I am only running 5-6 seconds slower that my old instructor's Viper ACR on slicks. He's been driving for over 30 years on the track and he thinks I'm ready for advanced after only another track day or two (personally I think it's too soon). He is convinced that with Hoosiers and poly bushings I will be running with him.

JUIC3D

You reusing your heads? I assume they're already milled?

taken19

My LS2 heads are in bad shape now but salvageable. Advance induction confirmed that they can be in working order for $500-700. I would like to take advantage of the stock LS3 heads. I figure somebody may want my LS2 heads for a couple hundred dollars and replace valves and bushings.

JUIC3D

If you're using stock heads, why do you need to flycut with a 230/234? Spin and other have confirmed that fits w/o flycutting and my 230/238 is doing just fine w/stock heads.

Or are you using a thinner gasket?

taken19

The new motor is bone stock. I coulda swore that Spin's 230/234 114+2 cam needed to notch the pistons with an otherwise stock LS3 motor. Can anybody confirm? If I can save the cam, maybe it's time for a ported oil pump and C5R timing chain...

No, no, no, I promised myself I would keep it stock for now! The temptation may be too great when it shows up, lol. Almost too easy to do with the motor out of the car...