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[Clutch comparison] Katech LS9R::McCleod RXT::Mantic Twin Disk

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Old 05-01-2012, 01:33 PM
  #61  
JUIC3D
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14

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I can't use my current tires. They're worn down to the threads and the sidewalls cracked somehow.

I was going to get another set of Mickeys but perhaps it's time for slicks? You think those would be easier on the drivetrain than drag radials? I'd also need bias ply skinnies for up front too.



Old 05-01-2012, 01:40 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
At the risk of pi$$ing a friend off...

I'm worried that that clutch is going to slow him down as it'll spin tires or bog.

He and I have really learned to use the clutch almost like a torque converter, or a clutch in a top fueler, that slips and locks up over time as opposed to locking up upon release and God bless the rest of the drivetrain.

My friend Double A Vette has had a heck of a time with his new dual clutch. He is so disgusted he won't drive the car anymore. He was turning 1.4's with his stock clutch.

And I truly hope I'm wrong. Justin is one of the quickest studies I've met so he's the perfect guy to try this out.

Time will tell.
I was on board with you Joe when we were discussing stock clutches. The 3.90 gear would also be a great addition to a stock clutch as it takes some strain off it.
Old 05-01-2012, 02:26 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Justinjor
I'd be happy with consistent low 1.5s-high 1.4s. I'm hopeful that the gear change will be enough to take the top spot.
Then why go through the trouble, you were already there?
We all want to see the et potential from n/a c6's.

Last edited by robz; 05-01-2012 at 02:34 PM.
Old 05-01-2012, 02:35 PM
  #64  
JUIC3D
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Originally Posted by robz
Then why go through the trouble, you were already there.
Because my stock clutch wasn't consistent anymore. Some days it would hold fine, other days it would slip as soon as I launched. The only reason I was able to cut the 1.5s and 1.4 at PBIR was because the track prep was so good, I didn't need any type of burnout to have the tires stick. What you can't see on the video or the timeslip is my left foot holding the clutch pedal up between the 2-3 and 3-4 shift. There were a few track days where the weather was good and I got everything ready, tires, seat out, etc, and the clutch gave up the very first pass. That sucks and I got sick of it.

It got bad enough that even a mild 3rd-4th gear pull on the highway would result in the pedal falling to the floor.

I did the ranger method religiously but it didn't help.

I had been wanting to build the rear end anyway so while the drivetrain was apart, I figured it would be a good time to get that swapped out.

I mean, I say I'd be happy with a 1.5 or whatever, but knowing me, I'll probably push it and go for a 1.3 on occasion, especially if I end up with slicks.
Old 05-01-2012, 03:08 PM
  #65  
robz
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Originally Posted by Justinjor
Because my stock clutch wasn't consistent anymore. Some days it would hold fine, other days it would slip as soon as I launched. The only reason I was able to cut the 1.5s and 1.4 at PBIR was because the track prep was so good, I didn't need any type of burnout to have the tires stick. What you can't see on the video or the timeslip is my left foot holding the clutch pedal up between the 2-3 and 3-4 shift. There were a few track days where the weather was good and I got everything ready, tires, seat out, etc, and the clutch gave up the very first pass. That sucks and I got sick of it.

It got bad enough that even a mild 3rd-4th gear pull on the highway would result in the pedal falling to the floor.

I did the ranger method religiously but it didn't help.

I had been wanting to build the rear end anyway so while the drivetrain was apart, I figured it would be a good time to get that swapped out.

I mean, I say I'd be happy with a 1.5 or whatever, but knowing me, I'll probably push it and go for a 1.3 on occasion, especially if I end up with slicks.
Let's see how it goes. I would have liked to see you with a new clutch and 3.90/4.10 gear like Joe G was hoping but if the new setup kicks **** then it's all worth it.
Old 05-01-2012, 03:10 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by robz
Let's see how it goes. I would have liked to see you with a new clutch and 3.90/4.10 gear like Joe G was hoping but if the new setup kicks **** then it's all worth it.
What do you mean rob? A new stock clutch and 3.90s/4.10s?

I have a new twin disk and 3.90 gears now. I swapped out both pieces at the same time.
Old 05-01-2012, 03:14 PM
  #67  
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I'd use those (call me crazy) and see how you do. I have a feeling you will need to go to bias ply - but you don't want to if you don't have to as they are a lot taller and will essentially offset the gearing you just put in the car.

I used mine like that all last season and they were fine. YRMV.

p.s. don't lose heart buddy. If you have to go bias ply, you can launch off the rev limiter! They are easier on the parts.

Robz and Gary20004Z06 will have salient advice if this clutch doesn't work like the stock one. I believe they both have had hard hooking clutches.

p.p.s. If your pedal was falling to the floor at launch you had to replace it. That's what happens to z06 stock clutches when you overpower them. Nothing you can do about that but replace it. I thought it was just after the 3-4 shift. At launch it's over.

Last edited by Joe_G; 05-01-2012 at 03:19 PM.
Old 05-01-2012, 03:18 PM
  #68  
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They don't make a 26" tall slick? You're nuts Joe--those cracks make me super nervous. If that side wall separates at 130mph. . .
Old 05-01-2012, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Justinjor
They don't make a 26" tall slick? You're nuts Joe--those cracks make me super nervous. If that side wall separates at 130mph. . .
I think Hoosier might make a short slick now that you mention it. The M/T bias ply is taller than 26 even though it says 26/17 on it. Check out Andrew (DSP300C)'s video, he's running the tall ones. Actually if you look at my avatar I had them too at that time.

Not nuts. Lookie here. They worked for me like that.

Old 05-01-2012, 03:24 PM
  #70  
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Oh no Joe--I have lots of videos of the clutch letting go on the launch. It got to be super frustrating and also embarrassing. I'd have to make the first turn off and barely make it back to the pits under my own power.

Then all my buddies would come tell me how the whole track smelled like my clutch

Old 05-01-2012, 03:35 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
That's my fear...the dual disk will not slip, it'll pretty much lock up, and spin tires or bog.

I really hope I'm wrong. But if I'm not you'll want to look into getting bias ply rear tires...your rear end is not gonna like drag radials and dead hooking...built or not.

So my point is try your current tires before you buy new ones.

If it slips like the stock clutch, you'll be able to get lower than 1.48.
I don't drag race and my car is totally stock but I replaced my stock clutch with the LS9x last year. I do autocross though and have the exact problem you describe. It is very hard to launch correctly even with stock rubber.
Old 05-01-2012, 04:05 PM
  #72  
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I have had a Textrailia in mine for drag racing, and road course. It at 20000 miles+ now. Still holds perfect. I make 500/500 give or take a few;-)
Old 05-01-2012, 09:38 PM
  #73  
CDaniel525
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Well for comparison, once I get my ca back I will post results of a McLeod RXT once its broken in... I sure hope I dont end up with an on/off clutch like you guys are describing for drag racing, and still end up with some slip for a decent 60foot.
Keep us updated once you get your broken in Justin!
Old 05-02-2012, 09:42 AM
  #74  
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Justinjor
Originally you said your comparison came down to 3 clutches. Did you look at RPS and Pfadt? And if you did why did you eliminate them? Also what does the Mantic weigh?
Thanks
Gary
'11 Z06
Old 05-02-2012, 09:48 AM
  #75  
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I wasn't aware Pfadt made clutches too.

I'm not a big RPS fan personally. I don't have any anecdotal evidence as to why not, but I've read countless stories of poor customer service with them on this forum and very few positive reviews. A local buddy also has the RPS twin carbon and always complains about it and the lack of slipping ability. I've felt it myself and I didn't like it.

Doug and Chris@ECS have been outstanding with regards to customer service both presale and postsale. I'm waiting to get everything broken in and situated but when I do, I'll do a through review. I'll need some time at the drag strip as well.

Chris also gave me his cell number and asked that I text him if any issues came up. I was really worried about the neutral rattle after I fired it up the first time on Sunday. He responded very quickly and answered my questions and also followed up a few days later to make sure everything was still in good shape.

It's rare to find that kind of service after the sale. I've only had 2 other vendors with great customer service. Gene@GM Partshouse and Cajun/Brett@BER. All 3 are top notch in my opinion.
Old 05-02-2012, 06:05 PM
  #76  
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Justin,
I'm not going to put another horse in the race. That one left the barn awhile ago. I just wish to add a few facts.
1.351
1.364
1.366
1.372
1.382
1.386
1.389
1.392
1.398
Yes, the BC2 can be slipped.
Rob Smith has always answered my questions and has been extremely helpful.
We appreciate your honest assessment thus far and look forward to your on track results.
Old 05-02-2012, 06:51 PM
  #77  
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Are 1.3 60fts indicative of a clutch that slips? Or are you using those as an example of it not slipping? I'm not sure I understand completely.

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Old 05-02-2012, 07:58 PM
  #78  
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At this power level, the clutch must slip to cut 1.3s in our Vettes.
Old 05-02-2012, 08:16 PM
  #79  
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What power level is that? heads/cam Z? ~580whp?
Old 05-02-2012, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Justinjor
What power level is that? heads/cam Z? ~580whp?
Garys z06 is bolt/ons only


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