greywolf40

I have been troubleshooting some intermittent stability control issues with the help of my local dealer, and recently replaced the EBCM. Sadly, that did not fix my problem, but it was pretty easy and I saved a fortune over having the dealer do it. I put together a little how-to video here:



Hope someone finds it helpful!

JerryTX

Nice work, hope I don't have to do this someday!

greywolf40

It was not a difficult job, though somewhat annoying. Very frustrating that it did not fix my problem though. I took it back to the dealer and they said replace the steering angle sensor. Shortly thereafter I was involved in a motorcycle wreck and the vette has been sitting in the garage ever since. One day I'll get back to it, I just hope to heck I can get it driving safely again.

JerryTX

Man good luck! Sorry to hear about the bike wreck, thats why I prefer to get my thrills on 4 wheels now!!

greywolf40

Yeah I had a Hayabusa, only thing that could make the vette feel slow. I still plan to keep riding, though I'm going to try to find a bike with ABS to replace the Hayabusa, if I had ABS I would not have gone down (somewhat ironic given the subject of this thread!).

gtovett

Hi, I'm only needing to replace the EBCM portion and am hoping to leave the brake lines in place. I got stuck in the process of trying to get the bottom right torx screw out of the EBCM part. (The screw that is closest to the ground and firewall) BUT at the same time, I also can't get the black clip for the connector that attaches to the front of the EBCM.
Any help?? I can't get the clip to release at all. In your video you mention it was the easiest one you've ever encountered so go figure I get stuck on that part.

Rjhctrapp

While I can certainly sympathize about the price of the ebcm, this is not a part I would want to trust to the eBay parts house. I'll spend the extra money on a Oem genuine GM performance part. This is not just a simple sensor that helps you stay out of the ditch. This is a major component that your safety relies on. Just me and my opinion though. I am a tech and wrench daily and can get my parts at cost. Anything made by doorman or any of the other knock off company's will never be installed on any of my vehicles.
I hope it works flawlessly for you for life but now you see why the dealer quoted you higher. Unforeseen on your part is more than likely and every time occurrence for them. I know on the trucks I work on, what would seem like a simple task always has a few snags that take time to fix. That's the part most people don't see. I follow a few mechanics on YouTube one primary being Eric O at South Main Auto in NY. You can learn a hell of a lot about diagnostics and trouble shooting circuits from him and you'll see, it's not always easy. He also does the work you just did but the biggest point is verify before the parts fly! You said it did not fix the problem, so what is your next move?
Graphing the speed sensors and watching the ebcm on a scanner can allow you to see which sensors are cutting out.
You didn't mention what your complaint is, what is happening that led you to the ebcm?

Jack121

Many thanks to all who have posted about this issue. I have a 2000 C5, and I have read many threads about the dreaded scenario starting with rough road and RR tracks causing this periodically, then it gradually worsens to the point where it becomes a full time issue. If that is your case I have to say start with the ignition switch. My son the mechanic has been hounding me for years about all of the stuff on my key chain telling me it would cause the ignition switch to fail...He was absolutely right, IT DID, it was failing for years.The problem gradually got worse over the years until it was unbearable. Think about it when you get the warning after crossing RR tracks, notice your keys bouncing around, the weight of the junk on your key chain is what causes the intermittent problem which causes the contacts to burn. I removed the Ign. switch and 3 sets of contacts were burnt black. At this point you can replace the ign switch, or do what I did, clean the contacts with some 2000 grit sand paper, and some tuner cleaner or alcohol. Immediate fix no more lights or codes.
Unfortunately I tried this after removing EBCM and finding it looked pristine, although the 4 torx head screws were only finger tight. Lucky because there are no EBCM's available from the GM and used ones on ebay were fetching $1500.
EASY FIX IF YOU START WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH.

mikeCsix

If I've said this once, I've said it a 100 times....

If you want to turn a good car into a crappy car, just keep replacing components with whatever is cheapest...