DIY: Broken header or exhaust manifold bolt removal
07-24-2012, 06:46 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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DIY: Broken header or exhaust manifold bolt removal
The other day I noticed that the motor was ticking louder than normal after the cam swap and it was also making an odd sound when cold. After closer inspection, I found..
Well that sucks, although this is nothing new to me, I had to do 4 on my H2 and I have 2 to do on the Escalade as well. Luckily it wasn't broken off flush or below the head surface (like the hummer
). It was a pretty quick job, I just pulled the plugs and wires...
Remove the remaining bolts and gently pry the manifold from the head.
Now we can get a set of Vice Grips on the stud and work it out. Be sure to use a good set, as the cheap ones will only cause aggravation.
... and here is the little bast*rd
I had some left over high grade bolts from doing the H2, so I just grabbed a new bolt, sprayed the old manifold gasket with high temp ultra copper spray, and put it back together. I plan on doing headers in the near future, so that's why I didn't get all new bolts or gaskets, etc, etc. I just needed to fix the leak quickly.
All in all, it took about an hour and a half from start to finish. Also didn't help that the motor was smoking hot.. lol
Hope this helps someone in the future.
Well that sucks, although this is nothing new to me, I had to do 4 on my H2 and I have 2 to do on the Escalade as well. Luckily it wasn't broken off flush or below the head surface (like the hummer
). It was a pretty quick job, I just pulled the plugs and wires...Remove the remaining bolts and gently pry the manifold from the head.
Now we can get a set of Vice Grips on the stud and work it out. Be sure to use a good set, as the cheap ones will only cause aggravation.
... and here is the little bast*rd
I had some left over high grade bolts from doing the H2, so I just grabbed a new bolt, sprayed the old manifold gasket with high temp ultra copper spray, and put it back together. I plan on doing headers in the near future, so that's why I didn't get all new bolts or gaskets, etc, etc. I just needed to fix the leak quickly.
All in all, it took about an hour and a half from start to finish. Also didn't help that the motor was smoking hot.. lol
Hope this helps someone in the future.
07-24-2012, 07:55 PM
#3
SUBVETTE
When you do the headers, use ARP bolts or studs (studs make header install easier) and you wont have to worry anymore about broken ones. A set of studs will set you back about $100, but well worth the expense.
07-25-2012, 02:13 PM
#4
The other day I noticed that the motor was ticking louder than normal after the cam swap and it was also making an odd sound when cold. After closer inspection, I found..
Well that sucks, although this is nothing new to me, I had to do 4 on my H2 and I have 2 to do on the Escalade as well. Luckily it wasn't broken off flush or below the head surface (like the hummer). It was a pretty quick job, I just pulled the plugs and wires...
Remove the remaining bolts and gently pry the manifold from the head.
Now we can get a set of Vice Grips on the stud and work it out. Be sure to use a good set, as the cheap ones will only cause aggravation.
... and here is the little bast*rd
I had some left over high grade bolts from doing the H2, so I just grabbed a new bolt, sprayed the old manifold gasket with high temp ultra copper spray, and put it back together. I plan on doing headers in the near future, so that's why I didn't get all new bolts or gaskets, etc, etc. I just needed to fix the leak quickly.
All in all, it took about an hour and a half from start to finish. Also didn't help that the motor was smoking hot.. lol
Hope this helps someone in the future.
Well that sucks, although this is nothing new to me, I had to do 4 on my H2 and I have 2 to do on the Escalade as well. Luckily it wasn't broken off flush or below the head surface (like the hummer
). It was a pretty quick job, I just pulled the plugs and wires...Remove the remaining bolts and gently pry the manifold from the head.
Now we can get a set of Vice Grips on the stud and work it out. Be sure to use a good set, as the cheap ones will only cause aggravation.
... and here is the little bast*rd
I had some left over high grade bolts from doing the H2, so I just grabbed a new bolt, sprayed the old manifold gasket with high temp ultra copper spray, and put it back together. I plan on doing headers in the near future, so that's why I didn't get all new bolts or gaskets, etc, etc. I just needed to fix the leak quickly.
All in all, it took about an hour and a half from start to finish. Also didn't help that the motor was smoking hot.. lol
Hope this helps someone in the future.
The rust on the broken bolt indicates its been there a loooog time??
I would invest in one properly calibrated name brand Torque Wrench!
By the way, prices is more than $100 and that price hasn't been dropped for several years! Again, been there, done it!
07-25-2012, 05:23 PM
#5
SUBVETTE
***My personal experience with ARP Header Stud is - surprised - you can't install them before headers, without experience, thinking you can hang the headers on - no - too long! I hang the headers up first with an oem, then install studs! So, not easier but they are high quality!
By the way, prices is more than $100 and that price hasn't been dropped for several years! Again, been there, done it![/QUOTE]
Been there, done it too. Installed a set of AR Headers After installing ARP Studs and made the job infinitely easier by hanging the headers on the studs from underneath the car. They weren't too long, so I don't know why you couldn't do it.
By the way, prices is more than $100 and that price hasn't been dropped for several years! Again, been there, done it![/QUOTE]
Been there, done it too. Installed a set of AR Headers After installing ARP Studs and made the job infinitely easier by hanging the headers on the studs from underneath the car. They weren't too long, so I don't know why you couldn't do it.
07-25-2012, 06:23 PM
#6
***My personal experience with ARP Header Stud is - surprised - you can't install them before headers, without experience, thinking you can hang the headers on - no - too long! I hang the headers up first with an oem, then install studs! So, not easier but they are high quality!
By the way, prices is more than $100 and that price hasn't been dropped for several years! Again, been there, done it!
By the way, prices is more than $100 and that price hasn't been dropped for several years! Again, been there, done it!
I should have been more specific, so sorry, it was with LG Pro. Certainly there exist dimensional variation among header designs! Once found out length too long, removed it and hung it with one oem than install the rest from the top!
Checked Summit, ARP header LS series 12 point stainless is $116 + change + Postage!
07-26-2012, 11:37 AM
#7
Heel & Toe
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****You know what, from your posted description, you had suffered a lot of broken fasteners with other cars, so the common denominator is perhaps the operator or the GM brand!??
The rust on the broken bolt indicates its been there a loooog time??
I would invest in one properly calibrated name brand Torque Wrench!
The rust on the broken bolt indicates its been there a loooog time??
I would invest in one properly calibrated name brand Torque Wrench!
And yes, I have in/lb and ft/lb torque wrenches..
07-26-2012, 06:34 PM
#8
Yeap, the common denominator is GM, as it is common on all 3 vehicles I have to have broken manifold bolts. The H2 and Escalade both had broken bolts when I bought them, and by the looks of it, the bolt was broken before I bought the Vette as well, although you couldn't hear it leaking until recently.
And yes, I have in/lb and ft/lb torque wrenches..
And yes, I have in/lb and ft/lb torque wrenches..
On the other hand, you already had three. So, now you can go for the fourth one, it will be a charm Bro!
