jpee

I have an 05 (A4) Vette, & just had a 2800 converter installed (about a month ago... The car (when it was stock) ran 12.20's with a 1.90 60' time..

I made my first run with the new converter, & it shifted to 2nd gear ok.. but at about 4000 RPM the converter locked up the engine just lost RPM... I ran 12.55 @110 mph on that run, & just packed it up & went home after that...

Now it "seemed" to drive ok but the trans temp was a little high (I have a stacked plate trans cooler)
My trans temp went to 206 deg.....then cooled off when I was on the highway.. to 170 deg..

I went back to the shop, & they adjusted the computer so the converter would "NOT" lock up under full throttle...

OK So I go to Englishtown the following week, & run about 6 runs (letting it cool between runs)... All runs were 11.74 - 11.76 my 60' times were 1.62 - 1.65 (with the stock converter my 60' were 1.90's

Anyway When driving the following day I would get a (for lack of a better word) shudder, or vibration when it shifted under "moderate" acceleration..

I brought the car back to the shop, & they sent the converter back to FTI in Fla.

FTI said the clutch was "Toasted" and it may have been caused by a bad transmission, (it has 40,000 miles on it) and has been raced a LOT!!

The shop suggested I get the trans checked, and I got a crazy price of $2000 + if I sent it for a rebuild....

My car IS NOT A HIGH HORSEPOWER CAR its making about 420 RWHP!

I have a VERY RELIABLE & COMPETENT transmission shop right down the street from me...

I have done him (the owner and builder) a few favors, & he offered to rebuild my trans...

Is there anything "SPECIAL" I should ask him to do... I already asked for "Kevlar" clutch plates, I doubt I need hardened shafts (trying to save some $$)

The car is raced 2x a month from March to Oct. As of now I'm getting the converter rebuilt under warranty, & will have to pay a small amount (just parts) for the trans rebuild...

I also told the speed shop, to program the trans "NOT" to lock up under full throttle, and when on the highway to lock up at 50 mph...

I'm looking for any suggestions, on anything else I should have done while its apart.....I'm thinking of having the stock intake ported while its in the shop with no trans in it..

Thanks in advance..

LS1LT1

Transmission rebuilds for high performance cars/cars that are drag raced can be very tricky John, you HAVE TO make sure that your friend has built multiple 4L60s/4L65s (whether they were for Corvettes, F-bodies or whatever) in the past and ESPECIALLY that he has done them for other drag racers.
Your basic 'Aamco/Lee Myles type rebuild' may have you paying more labor to take it back out again next year.

If I ever needed a 4L65 done I would likely go with Tommy (Anger Management Tommy that is) as he is somewhat local (no shipping) and his work is AWESOME...or possibly RPM (though the shipping/freight makes that a little more cost prohibitive).

You should go a little higher in stall if they're taking the converter apart anyway and also yes, port your LS2 intake over the winter as it could be good for 10rwhp.

jpee

Marc...

I have a lot of confidence in this guy (trans builder) he did my 96 and it ran perfect for 5 yrs .. and back then I was racing 2 nights a week.. (Fri Gambler) and Sat CC... He has done a LOT of these type trans...

I'm leery of going to a higher stall only because I will have to go to a better (stickier) tire than the Nitto 555 that I'm now using..

The 555 is hooking up with the 2800 converter, and I'm getting 1.63 - 1.65 60' times.. if I go to a 3600 Converter I'll need MT or something like that and need two or more sets a yr..

Remember I drive 100 miles each way to race...I'm willing to give up .10 - .15 in my 60' to be able to get a full yr out of one set of DR...

RPM is talking over $2000... for a RACE trans... & I'm not making THAT much HP that I need hardened output shafts, This trans shop is going to put in better clutches etc...& I should be fine (besides the price is right) I did him a few favors, & its only costing me the price of new parts...

I'll bring it back to Cartek next week, & they should have the converter back from FTI... and I told Julio to drive it for two or three days to feel it out, then put it on the dyno to set up the shift points, & set the lock up up to 50 mph...

If Julio isn't too bad on price I'll have the intake ported also...

realcanuk

it sounds to me like this whole thing could be due to tuning issues. Make sure you get someone who really knows trans tuning to set things up right. The converter should not have been locking at full throttle.(unless its a triple disc).

jpee

And after he tuned it, it DID NOT lock up under full throttle, but I think the damage was done on the runs BEFORE he set the converter NOT to lock up....

I honestly don't think I need to spend $2000 + at RPM transmissions because I'm NOT making a lot of HP (400-420 at most)

I am getting the trans done by a very competent shop, only because it may have been damaged by s&*t from the converter when it went bad... Also I'm getting Kevlar clutches instead of the OEM...

realcanuk

I think you are dead on. As you might know I'm going through the tranny thing right now also. I spoke in depth with a Chuck about this issue and one of the things he mentioned was that if the converter goes, it often takes the tranny with it. He also agrees that the stock trans will live well with power when tuned right.

realcanuk

One more thing. Make sure your cooler and lines are thoroughly flushed with a flushing machine. The oil in there will have enough crap in it to ruin your new tranny.

jpee

I'm sure Cartek knows enough to do that, but I'll be sure to remind them anyway

dennis50nj

what was your break in procedure on the converter?

jpee

I just drove it "easy" for the first 40 miles, then got on it about 1/2 throttle a few times... then went to the track for a full pass.... ??

LS1LT1

Yes, very important.





Yes they do know very well about that, I spend a lot of time hanging out over there (as you know ) and it's standard operating procedure for them after someone's trans and/or converter let's go.

dennis50nj

that might be what did the clutch damage, i just read the break in procedure from yank, no jumping on it flashing to see stall or brake stalling it or racing for 150 miles

dennis50nj

http://www.converter.cc/Installation_Guide_s/23.htm

jpee

Thanks Dennis...got some good info there.. I'll be SURE to do that this time, also there is no racing again until March, so I'll be able to drive it easy all winter (on nice days)

Thanks !!