GS vs. Z06 performance
06-19-2013, 11:40 AM
#21
Melting Slicks
Dont take the trade in price hit on getting rid of yours... Take some money & do add ons to your GS... Honestly your not gana get a good opinion on the forum because all the Z06 guys are gana side with the Z's and the GS guys are gana side with the GS's honestly its up to you what u wana do..
06-19-2013, 01:23 PM
#23
Melting Slicks
06-19-2013, 01:49 PM
#25
Intermediate
Member Since: Mar 2013
Location: Falmouth Ma
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have seen many posts from forum members with crazy modified GS and base Coupes with listed high milage. I would be interested in seeing some of their feed back here in regards the people bashing on the GS as not being able to handle modifications.
Last edited by kmikem; 06-19-2013 at 01:53 PM.
06-19-2013, 01:59 PM
#26
Team Owner
Callaway has had great success with their supercharged 606 HP engine using the TVS2300 blower and using the stock A6.
You already have most of the Z06's performance except for the acceleration with your GS.
If I were in your shoes I would go with the Edelbrock E-Force 554 HP(at the flywheel) supercharger. No new hood required. The Edelbrock also uses the 2300 Eaton rotors that the Maggie and the ZR1 uses. just different housings and innercooler. If you later decide you need more go, then install the Z06 fuel pump and the smaller pulley for 599 HP(at the flywheel).
You will have around 200 pounds more weight than the Z06, but you will have 50 to 95 more horsepower over the Z06 to compensate for the additional weight.
A friend of mine has a 2012 Callaway GS SC606 convertible A6 and she loves it.
You already have most of the Z06's performance except for the acceleration with your GS.
If I were in your shoes I would go with the Edelbrock E-Force 554 HP(at the flywheel) supercharger. No new hood required. The Edelbrock also uses the 2300 Eaton rotors that the Maggie and the ZR1 uses. just different housings and innercooler. If you later decide you need more go, then install the Z06 fuel pump and the smaller pulley for 599 HP(at the flywheel).
You will have around 200 pounds more weight than the Z06, but you will have 50 to 95 more horsepower over the Z06 to compensate for the additional weight.
A friend of mine has a 2012 Callaway GS SC606 convertible A6 and she loves it.
Last edited by JoesC5; 06-19-2013 at 02:01 PM.
06-19-2013, 02:09 PM
#27
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: Missouri City Texas
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keep your LS3 and mod it as long as you are okay with losing your warranty. The LS3 is a solid power plant that can take a lot thrown at it.
The Z06 is an awesome package right out of the box, but not worth the hit you would be taking financially. That, and the worry some 427 owners deal with regarding the valve issue. Perhaps the C7 Z06 will have this issue covered.....
The Z06 is an awesome package right out of the box, but not worth the hit you would be taking financially. That, and the worry some 427 owners deal with regarding the valve issue. Perhaps the C7 Z06 will have this issue covered.....
06-19-2013, 05:44 PM
#29
Intermediate
Member Since: May 2013
Location: manchester NH
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keep your LS3 and mod it as long as you are okay with losing your warranty. The LS3 is a solid power plant that can take a lot thrown at it.
The Z06 is an awesome package right out of the box, but not worth the hit you would be taking financially. That, and the worry some 427 owners deal with regarding the valve issue. Perhaps the C7 Z06 will have this issue covered.....
The Z06 is an awesome package right out of the box, but not worth the hit you would be taking financially. That, and the worry some 427 owners deal with regarding the valve issue. Perhaps the C7 Z06 will have this issue covered.....
06-19-2013, 05:53 PM
#30
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: Missouri City Texas
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
why do you say mod it if you are ok with losing your warranty? that is totally untrue. granted if something breaks in the internals or drivetrain that they can prove was a cause of a mod fine. but the warranty covers so much more. the electronics are the main cause of expensive warranty claims and you will still be covered. I bought the extended warranty even knowing that I was going to mod.
I have internal engine mods (namely a cam and valvetrain), and don't expect GM to warranty any of it. In fact, I would not be surprised that a warranty denial could come regarding other non drivetrain electrical components because I have altered the tune, and they try to present that as a reason for other systems failing.
In essense, I can hope for the best, but am prepared to pay for the worst case scenario. YMMV
06-19-2013, 06:09 PM
#31
06-19-2013, 06:21 PM
#32
Intermediate
Member Since: May 2013
Location: manchester NH
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In particular, I am refering to drivetrain components.
I have internal engine mods (namely a cam and valvetrain), and don't expect GM to warranty any of it. In fact, I would not be surprised that a warranty denial could come regarding other non drivetrain electrical components because I have altered the tune, and they try to present that as a reason for other systems failing.
In essense, I can hope for the best, but am prepared to pay for the worst case scenario. YMMV
I have internal engine mods (namely a cam and valvetrain), and don't expect GM to warranty any of it. In fact, I would not be surprised that a warranty denial could come regarding other non drivetrain electrical components because I have altered the tune, and they try to present that as a reason for other systems failing.
In essense, I can hope for the best, but am prepared to pay for the worst case scenario. YMMV
btw, can someone explain how the GS gets faster over time than the Z. I would love to bottle and sell that stuff.
06-19-2013, 06:26 PM
#33
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: Missouri City Texas
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
got it. depending on the issue the car will be towed to my house vs. the stealership and mods and tune reversed. multiple dealerships if necessary as well. But we are big boys and girls so we know you gotta pay to play. but again that is off topic of this thread.
btw, can someone explain how the GS gets faster over time than the Z. I would love to bottle and sell that stuff.
btw, can someone explain how the GS gets faster over time than the Z. I would love to bottle and sell that stuff.
06-19-2013, 10:21 PM
#34
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,078
Received 8,919 Likes
on
5,328 Posts
On a short track the GS coupe will probably be as good if not better than a Z06 or ZR1. This is the opinion of a professional instructor I have met who is the Chief Instructor at one of the southeastern motorsports tracks. From my experience driving my Z and riding as an instructor in GSs once you get into the upper rpm ranges the Z06 just leaves the GS in the dust. I am not talking about drag racing on a 1/4 mile track. I am talking about sections of track that are a 1/2 mile in length that you can exit a turn at about 70 mph and then just plant your foot on the floor until the next braking zone. About 1/2 way through that the GS starts to fall behind with a stop speed 10 to 12 mph slower than the Z by the time the braking zone is reached.
Of course the OP can't do any of that in his Vert GS since they don't allow them unless they have a roll bar. Another reason to buy a GS coupe or just get the Z06.
Bill
Of course the OP can't do any of that in his Vert GS since they don't allow them unless they have a roll bar. Another reason to buy a GS coupe or just get the Z06.
Bill
06-19-2013, 11:20 PM
#35
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16,555
Received 2,060 Likes
on
1,505 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Other than the extra weight, I see no reason why a bolt-on GS can't match the 1/4 mile times of a stock Z06. With the addition of a cam, even the weight becomes a non-issue. Durability at a 450-480 rwhp level is not a problem either.
06-20-2013, 04:05 AM
#36
Drifting
On a short track the GS coupe will probably be as good if not better than a Z06 or ZR1. This is the opinion of a professional instructor I have met who is the Chief Instructor at one of the southeastern motorsports tracks. From my experience driving my Z and riding as an instructor in GSs once you get into the upper rpm ranges the Z06 just leaves the GS in the dust. I am not talking about drag racing on a 1/4 mile track. I am talking about sections of track that are a 1/2 mile in length that you can exit a turn at about 70 mph and then just plant your foot on the floor until the next braking zone. About 1/2 way through that the GS starts to fall behind with a stop speed 10 to 12 mph slower than the Z by the time the braking zone is reached.
I initially found the GS to be the easier to drive. The response to driver inputs is a bit more deliberate and that was helpful when learning the track and initially driving near the limit. As the class progressed, I ended up preferring the Z06. It just felt more precise and responded to inputs immediately. It gave great feedback on what to do and not to do on a track. Got to say, though, that the ZR1 with PTM is a much better suspension than a regular Z06.
06-20-2013, 10:11 AM
#37
Tech Contributor
Without a question you will be money ahead modding your car to your liking.
Just for fun call Carmax and see what they will give you for your car. Don't be insulted, it's what you will get unless you find a local seller to buy your car from you.
Now that you have that number in mind, consider what mods you want to for your intended usage.
Here is my thread with all my mods overlaid on my 74,000 mile daily driver 05 Vette. with 494 hard drag strip runs on it.
The beauty of the path I chose is that the mods were done over time so each time I did some mods it was like a new car.
Here's my thread, you might find some nuggets of wisdom:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-heads.html
Just for fun call Carmax and see what they will give you for your car. Don't be insulted, it's what you will get unless you find a local seller to buy your car from you.
Now that you have that number in mind, consider what mods you want to for your intended usage.
Here is my thread with all my mods overlaid on my 74,000 mile daily driver 05 Vette. with 494 hard drag strip runs on it.
The beauty of the path I chose is that the mods were done over time so each time I did some mods it was like a new car.
Here's my thread, you might find some nuggets of wisdom:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-heads.html
Decided yesterday to overlay all my mods since I've self tuned and dyno'ed each time I did major mods.
I found it interesting and thought I'd share.
See below. Each line represents progressive mods:
1. stock;
2. headers & tune (3.90 gears at same time);
3. G5x3 cam & .040 gaskets (11.4 compression);
4. FAST, and
5. used AFR 205 heads.
What strikes me is how dramatic the gains from headers and a tune were. Combined with the gears, it felt like a different car, and I got a full second + 10 mph in the 1/4 from those mods, from 12.9@108 to 11.8@118. The car was dead nuts reliable at this level.
The second take away is how all the remaining mods really only mattered from 4500 on. Thus I very seldom notice them on the street, only on the track. Not counting the cool sound of the cam.
Mods 3-5 did take off another second and added 10 mph - to 10.8@128. But it cost a lot more and I broke a diff and two transmissions on my way.
This graph shows what I've been saying for while; headers, tune and gears give you by far the best bang for the buck from idle to redline, the remaining mods only matter from 4500 on. Most street driving is below 3000 rpm...you do feel gears and headers even at that level.
Hope someone finds this useful as they decide upon mods.
I need to add...without question...the best mod for return on $$ is...
SEAT TIME.
And personally, I find that mod the most rewarding.
Another item Tommy kindly reminded me of, is weight reduction.
If you are drag racing, you can expect .1 to .15 from putting skinny tires up front (saving 50 lbs+ of rotating weight) and taking out your passenger seat (53 lbs).
I found it interesting and thought I'd share.
See below. Each line represents progressive mods:
1. stock;
2. headers & tune (3.90 gears at same time);
3. G5x3 cam & .040 gaskets (11.4 compression);
4. FAST, and
5. used AFR 205 heads.
What strikes me is how dramatic the gains from headers and a tune were. Combined with the gears, it felt like a different car, and I got a full second + 10 mph in the 1/4 from those mods, from 12.9@108 to 11.8@118. The car was dead nuts reliable at this level.
The second take away is how all the remaining mods really only mattered from 4500 on. Thus I very seldom notice them on the street, only on the track. Not counting the cool sound of the cam.
Mods 3-5 did take off another second and added 10 mph - to 10.8@128. But it cost a lot more and I broke a diff and two transmissions on my way.
This graph shows what I've been saying for while; headers, tune and gears give you by far the best bang for the buck from idle to redline, the remaining mods only matter from 4500 on. Most street driving is below 3000 rpm...you do feel gears and headers even at that level.
Hope someone finds this useful as they decide upon mods.
I need to add...without question...the best mod for return on $$ is...
SEAT TIME.
And personally, I find that mod the most rewarding.
Another item Tommy kindly reminded me of, is weight reduction.
If you are drag racing, you can expect .1 to .15 from putting skinny tires up front (saving 50 lbs+ of rotating weight) and taking out your passenger seat (53 lbs).
06-20-2013, 10:30 AM
#38
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Thanks for sharing this information, and to the others who have sent some great comments. Definitely giving me some great ideas to consider!Without a question you will be money ahead modding your car to your liking.
Just for fun call Carmax and see what they will give you for your car. Don't be insulted, it's what you will get unless you find a local seller to buy your car from you.
Now that you have that number in mind, consider what mods you want to for your intended usage.
Here is my thread with all my mods overlaid on my 74,000 mile daily driver 05 Vette. with 494 hard drag strip runs on it.
The beauty of the path I chose is that the mods were done over time so each time I did some mods it was like a new car.
Here's my thread, you might find some nuggets of wisdom:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-heads.html
Just for fun call Carmax and see what they will give you for your car. Don't be insulted, it's what you will get unless you find a local seller to buy your car from you.
Now that you have that number in mind, consider what mods you want to for your intended usage.
Here is my thread with all my mods overlaid on my 74,000 mile daily driver 05 Vette. with 494 hard drag strip runs on it.
The beauty of the path I chose is that the mods were done over time so each time I did some mods it was like a new car.
Here's my thread, you might find some nuggets of wisdom:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-heads.html
06-20-2013, 10:43 AM
#39
Tech Contributor
Check out the discussion on gears in my thread, with dyno sheets to prove my points.
If you have a manual car I'd say CAI, & 4.10 gears if you are wanting to keep the warranty and you will be good to go. The car will feel like it lost 500 lbs.
If you have a manual car and want it to feel like a rocket ship, 3800 stall and a trans cooler and tune and call it a day. That's a recipe for a low 11 second machine and today the converters are a lot better than they used to be.
06-20-2013, 10:50 AM
#40
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Thank you, Joe. I do have a manual - no offense to anyone with an auto, but can't beat the feel of driving w/ a manual.
OK, I have to plead ignorant here... I've read yours, as well as other numerous replies, regarding a "tune." Maybe people have different takes or interpretations, but what do you consider a "tune?"
OK, I have to plead ignorant here... I've read yours, as well as other numerous replies, regarding a "tune." Maybe people have different takes or interpretations, but what do you consider a "tune?"
Sharing info makes this forum great!
Check out the discussion on gears in my thread, with dyno sheets to prove my points.
If you have a manual car I'd say CAI, & 4.10 gears if you are wanting to keep the warranty and you will be good to go. The car will feel like it lost 500 lbs.
If you have a manual car and want it to feel like a rocket ship, 3800 stall and a trans cooler and tune and call it a day. That's a recipe for a low 11 second machine and today the converters are a lot better than they used to be.
Check out the discussion on gears in my thread, with dyno sheets to prove my points.
If you have a manual car I'd say CAI, & 4.10 gears if you are wanting to keep the warranty and you will be good to go. The car will feel like it lost 500 lbs.
If you have a manual car and want it to feel like a rocket ship, 3800 stall and a trans cooler and tune and call it a day. That's a recipe for a low 11 second machine and today the converters are a lot better than they used to be.