supercharged 05' need drag radial suggestions
02-28-2014, 05:15 PM
#41
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This forum is a great place to get answers. Unfortunately you will get both good and bad ones. Be very careful from whom you may receive advice. Sometimes it is far better researching the poster than trying to wade through the vast array of answers. I personally know the gentleman of post #4 and he has sage advice. 
And that was kinda the point I was making, but you said it a lot better. Those of us whose statistics speak for themselves have already been through the learning curve. The parts are only half of the equation. Seat time is invaluable and I wish I could get more. One track closed for good and the other has new management issues to work through.
02-28-2014, 06:00 PM
#42
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Now its between MT 275/40/R17 & 295/45/R17 for the tires.
Had these wheels in mind for the rear in a 17x9.5 +54mm size.
http://www.corvette-wheels.com/c6-z0...hined-lip.html
Any comments or approvals on the above?
Trying to stay away from the Hoosiers. Not concerned so much about the wear. More the safety. We will bolt on the MT's at home and drive them to the track, race, then back home and put the street tires back on.
Thanks fellas.
Had these wheels in mind for the rear in a 17x9.5 +54mm size.
http://www.corvette-wheels.com/c6-z0...hined-lip.html
Any comments or approvals on the above?
Trying to stay away from the Hoosiers. Not concerned so much about the wear. More the safety. We will bolt on the MT's at home and drive them to the track, race, then back home and put the street tires back on.
Thanks fellas.
02-28-2014, 06:02 PM
#43
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This forum is a great place to get answers. Unfortunately you will get both good and bad ones. Be very careful from whom you may receive advice. Sometimes it is far better researching the poster than trying to wade through the vast array of answers. I personally know the gentleman of post #4 and he has sage advice.
For a budget/performance combination, it is hard to beat the OEM C5Z front wheels. To give you insight on the tires, our crew has been running Hoosiers for approximately 6-7 years now. (This is not to say that the M/Ts are bad tires. I currently have a set of 305/35R19s on the C6Z as a good compromise street/strip tire to replace the OEM runflats.) The Hoosiers are lighter and extremely aggressive more so than the M/Ts. They will consistently outperform similarly sized DRs at the track. We have ran both auto and stick, N/A, sprayed and FI on 275/40R17s and 255/50R16s producing sixties in the 1.3s and 1.4s. The downside of the Hoosiers are the decreased amount of wear and the inability to drive the car in the rain should you elect to drive them to the track. With that said, the M/Ts are a good tire and will last should you choose them.
Good luck and keep us posted.
For a budget/performance combination, it is hard to beat the OEM C5Z front wheels. To give you insight on the tires, our crew has been running Hoosiers for approximately 6-7 years now. (This is not to say that the M/Ts are bad tires. I currently have a set of 305/35R19s on the C6Z as a good compromise street/strip tire to replace the OEM runflats.) The Hoosiers are lighter and extremely aggressive more so than the M/Ts. They will consistently outperform similarly sized DRs at the track. We have ran both auto and stick, N/A, sprayed and FI on 275/40R17s and 255/50R16s producing sixties in the 1.3s and 1.4s. The downside of the Hoosiers are the decreased amount of wear and the inability to drive the car in the rain should you elect to drive them to the track. With that said, the M/Ts are a good tire and will last should you choose them.
Good luck and keep us posted.
03-01-2014, 11:21 AM
#44
Melting Slicks
I used to run the MT 255/50/16's on my heads/cam/stalled and sometimes sprayed 05 GTO. Everyone was too worried about stuffing the biggest tire they could under the car and I was trying to fit the smallest setup I could still hook on the car. Went 1.5's on them with never any spin.
I would have put them on the C6 if I were able to fit a 16" wheel on the rear.
I would have put them on the C6 if I were able to fit a 16" wheel on the rear.
03-01-2014, 03:14 PM
#45
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My vote is for 275/40r17 as well, you will be faster on them as they are shorter and lighter. You're an auto and don't need the extra sidewall to cushion the drivetrain from shock like a stick car, you may need a retune on the shorter tires though to keep shift points crisp and off the limiter. Keep in mind some people put on heavier/taller tires on a high hp car to de-gear it and rob power to make it hook, not what I recommend.
Now dad wants to use either the front or rear OEM gumby wheels that came on the come originally and put some DR's on them for rear service. I believe the front wheels are 18X8.5/+56 & the rears are 19X10/+79. A search concluded that neither MT ETS 2 or Nitto NT05R have a suitable 275 through 305 width size that will fit the narrow 18x8.5 front wheel (unless I missed something or if I am wrong, tell me), (maybe the 285/40R18 will fit on the 18x8.5 ??)
So, that means we need to use the rear wheels at 19x10. A search concluded that we could fit a Nitto NT05R in 305/35R19 on that rear wheel or a MT ETS 2 in 305/35R19.
Questions are:
1. Will the 305/35R19 rub the wheel wells?
2. Grip of this rear setup? Considering the consensus among posters on this thread is that more sidewall is more desireable.
3. If you have used this 305/35R19 set up for DR please comment on if the setup works ok.
4. Any other comments welcome.
I am learning a lot about this situation through this process and am trying to educate my dad too, so I appreciate you feedback and patience. Thanks.
03-01-2014, 04:41 PM
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I have heard that the 05' rear end can be a little dicey. Would it then be better to er on the side of caution and stay with a 275 width to allow a little wheelspin instead of a 295 or 305 and hook up hard and risk breaking something? I am just a little skeptical that a 275 DR can provide that much better traction than a 285 Michelin PS2. Perhaps we won't know until we try it.
03-01-2014, 05:19 PM
#47
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I blew up that motor, & now I have a stroker (403" ci) with a cam, Kooks Headers, FAST 102 intake manifold, and an FTI 2800 converter..
I just turned over 600 miles on the new motor & am waiting for all this S&ITTY Snow to stop so I can get it to the track..
BTW I have never experienced wheel Hop.. (I'm still using the 3.15 rear end...
The motor made 477 HP & 455 TQ to the rear wheels... I'll report back here as soon as I can get it to a track..
not looking good for at least another 2 weeks....From what I here on this forum, most (05) rear ends blow when the car has "Street" tires on it, & manuals are more prone to breaking than Automatics... I hope thats right.. I have been racing it with the 3.15 rear, and 2800 converter for the last 5 years...so far so good....
03-02-2014, 12:44 PM
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03-02-2014, 01:37 PM
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I'm out of here too and I think he feels similar to me. I understand you are trying to learn, but for whatever reason, you and/or your dad choose not to accept the advice of several of the most experienced racers on this forum. So when you decided to use some wheels you just happen to have laying around, there becomes a point where no further suggestions merit replies.
It also appears that you feel tires will solve all your traction problems and that width is the most important criteria. The cold hard truth is that even the best tire won't totally compensate for a lack of skill at that HP level, but at least they'll be a better starting point.
It also appears that you feel tires will solve all your traction problems and that width is the most important criteria. The cold hard truth is that even the best tire won't totally compensate for a lack of skill at that HP level, but at least they'll be a better starting point.
03-02-2014, 02:12 PM
#52
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I'm out of here too and I think he feels similar to me. I understand you are trying to learn, but for whatever reason, you and/or your dad choose not to accept the advice of several of the most experienced racers on this forum. So when you decided to use some wheels you just happen to have laying around, there becomes a point where no further suggestions merit replies.
It also appears that you feel tires will solve all your traction problems and that width is the most important criteria. The cold hard truth is that even the best tire won't totally compensate for a lack of skill at that HP level, but at least they'll be a better starting point.
It also appears that you feel tires will solve all your traction problems and that width is the most important criteria. The cold hard truth is that even the best tire won't totally compensate for a lack of skill at that HP level, but at least they'll be a better starting point.
The latter part of the statement is not directed to the OP.
03-02-2014, 04:09 PM
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I'm out of here too and I think he feels similar to me. I understand you are trying to learn, but for whatever reason, you and/or your dad choose not to accept the advice of several of the most experienced racers on this forum. So when you decided to use some wheels you just happen to have laying around, there becomes a point where no further suggestions merit replies. It also appears that you feel tires will solve all your traction problems and that width is the most important criteria. The cold hard truth is that even the best tire won't totally compensate for a lack of skill at that HP level, but at least they'll be a better starting point.
Thanks again.
03-02-2014, 08:47 PM
#54
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This forum is a great place to get answers. Unfortunately you will get both good and bad ones. Be very careful from whom you may receive advice. Sometimes it is far better researching the poster than trying to wade through the vast array of answers. I personally know the gentleman of post #4 and he has sage advice.
For a budget/performance combination, it is hard to beat the OEM C5Z front wheels. To give you insight on the tires, our crew has been running Hoosiers for approximately 6-7 years now. (This is not to say that the M/Ts are bad tires. I currently have a set of 305/35R19s on the C6Z as a good compromise street/strip tire to replace the OEM runflats.) The Hoosiers are lighter and extremely aggressive more so than the M/Ts. They will consistently outperform similarly sized DRs at the track. We have ran both auto and stick, N/A, sprayed and FI on 275/40R17s and 255/50R16s producing sixties in the 1.3s and 1.4s. The downside of the Hoosiers are the decreased amount of wear and the inability to drive the car in the rain should you elect to drive them to the track. With that said, the M/Ts are a good tire and will last should you choose them.
Good luck and keep us posted.
For a budget/performance combination, it is hard to beat the OEM C5Z front wheels. To give you insight on the tires, our crew has been running Hoosiers for approximately 6-7 years now. (This is not to say that the M/Ts are bad tires. I currently have a set of 305/35R19s on the C6Z as a good compromise street/strip tire to replace the OEM runflats.) The Hoosiers are lighter and extremely aggressive more so than the M/Ts. They will consistently outperform similarly sized DRs at the track. We have ran both auto and stick, N/A, sprayed and FI on 275/40R17s and 255/50R16s producing sixties in the 1.3s and 1.4s. The downside of the Hoosiers are the decreased amount of wear and the inability to drive the car in the rain should you elect to drive them to the track. With that said, the M/Ts are a good tire and will last should you choose them.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I get the picture and I appreciate all the advice guys. I think I will share this thread with my dad so he can see that if he is gonna get DR's it would be most prudent to go with the 275/40/17 route like you guys say. He was the one wanting to use wheels he already has so that is why I asked if the 305/35/19 had any success in a DR amongst those of you who may have tried that. If you say that route is a poor choice compared to 275/40/17 then I believe you and won't mention any other sizes ever again. Ultimately it's his car and $$ so he has to choose but I will try to steer him the right direction. Will let you know how we do this spring.....
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
03-02-2014, 09:41 PM
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Very limited use at the strip produced low 1.6s. Due to the shorter sidewall, it is much harder on parts. IMHO, this tire is capable of high 1.4s to low 1.5s in certain setups. As mentioned above, it is a very good compromise tire if not looking for the utmost performance and you elect to keep the OEM wheels.
03-03-2014, 08:10 AM
#56
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03-03-2014, 09:32 AM
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That rear is known to be weaker but any of the rears can break whether they are C5Z, 06+ C6, C6Z, or C6 ZR1. Any good sticky DR can break a rear if you wheelhop or dead hook although the latter is mostly related to stick cars. On a very sticky track with your power level, breakage can occur; however, your auto will lessen that potential. Race enough and surely something will break. Parts do wear out. There are over 480 passes on the C6Z. I bring spare axles to the track just in case. This is not meant to scare you but is intended to make sure that readers know that the only way to prevent breakage is not to race it at all. What fun would that be?
03-03-2014, 09:47 AM
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That rear is known to be weaker but any of the rears can break whether they are C5Z, 06+ C6, C6Z, or C6 ZR1. Any good sticky DR can break a rear if you wheelhop or dead hook although the latter is mostly related to stick cars. On a very sticky track with your power level, breakage can occur; however, your auto will lessen that potential. Race enough and surely something will break. Parts do wear out. There are over 480 passes on the C6Z. I bring spare axles to the track just in case. This is not meant to scare you but is intended to make sure that readers know that the only way to prevent breakage is not to race it at all. What fun would that be?
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...9.5&vid=009186
....and dad wants to try this tire:
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...%2FPerformance
They would show up mounted & balanced, ready to bolt on and go.
If we skip the TPMS sensors for this DR setup, will it cause any glitches with the car or will there just be an annoying light on??
Figured this might be a good way start off with a DR setup without spending a bundle.
Dad ran an 11.50 last fall on PS2 ZP's in the stock narrow body size so if he can hit high 10's he would be happy.
Thanks.
03-03-2014, 10:19 AM
#59
Le Mans Master
With missing TPMS in the rear, if you drive the car for longer than (I believe) an hour, it will kick out active handling errors. I drove to TWS one day without rear TPMS and then the car fought me on the course because it went into super aggressive active handling routine because it can't read all the TPMS. But I hadn't noticed it before because I only took it on ~1/3 hour trips prior to that.
Wheel link didn't work for me.
Wheel link didn't work for me.
03-03-2014, 10:26 AM
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With missing TPMS in the rear, if you drive the car for longer than (I believe) an hour, it will kick out active handling errors. I drove to TWS one day without rear TPMS and then the car fought me on the course because it went into super aggressive active handling routine because it can't read all the TPMS. But I hadn't noticed it before because I only took it on ~1/3 hour trips prior to that.
Wheel link didn't work for me.
Wheel link didn't work for me.