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My 2005 has been doing the "Reduced Engine Power" with the check engine light and "Service Active Handling" for the past month or so. I am able to get it out of the limp mode pretty easily by disconnecting then reconnecting the battery. Eventually, however, it reoccurs.
I finally took it to my mechanic, who tells me when I disconnected the battery I erased the codes, so he is not able to diagnose my problem.
Since the problem is intermittent and cannot be produced "on command," is there anything I can suggest to him? (He is a good mechanic, trustworthy with a great local reputation, and has some Corvette experience and training, but is not a Vette "specialist." He was great with my C4 and C5's, but I know he has not done much with C6's).
Other interesting factors which may or may not relate:
(1) seems more likely to happen when car has been run a while and the weather is hot.
(2) the driver's door handle module is bad -- the inside button does not work and the key fob cannot be programmed.
(3) there is an aftermarket gas pedal on the car (possible issue I noted using search function).
Did your mechanic actually try to read codes, or did he tell you he couldn't because you had disconnected the battery? AFIK, some history codes should remain across battery disconnects.
Did your mechanic actually try to read codes, or did he tell you he couldn't because you had disconnected the battery? AFIK, the codes should remain across battery disconnects.
I also thought they remained so I was confused -- that's why I posted. He said he was not able to read the codes, but is it possible he would not have the proper equipment? That would surprise me.
Really disappointing compared to my C5 which allowed ME to read codes and be a more knowledgeable consumer of my mechanics' services. What was GM they thinking?
If so, I hate to do this, but I'll just ask him to button it up and I'll take it to a local Chevy dealer whose reputation is "OK"...
(2) the driver's door handle module is bad -- the inside button does not work and the key fob cannot be programmed.
What do you mean by "reprogrammed?" You can't get the car to learn a new fob?
I suggest that you buy a code reader (they're cheap) and drive around with it in the car. Then you'll at least have a starting point for wherever you end up taking it to get fixed.
What do you mean by "reprogrammed?" You can't get the car to learn a new fob?
I suggest that you buy a code reader (they're cheap) and drive around with it in the car. Then you'll at least have a starting point for wherever you end up taking it to get fixed.
$16 at Amazon...worth having. The aftermarket gas pedal would be my first place to look at.
What do you mean by "reprogrammed?" You can't get the car to learn a new fob?
I suggest that you buy a code reader (they're cheap) and drive around with it in the car. Then you'll at least have a starting point for wherever you end up taking it to get fixed.
Correct -- car will not learn new fob with either short or long procedure. Mechanic's diagnosis is that defective door lock module precludes this.
As to the code reader -- a $16 piece will read all the codes these things can throw? No brainer for me to buy one and I will. Thanks.
Still seems weird to me that the computer(s) won't save history codes just because battery is disconnected.
Correct -- car will not learn new fob with either short or long procedure. Mechanic's diagnosis is that defective door lock module precludes this.
As to the code reader -- a $16 piece will read all the codes these things can throw? No brainer for me to buy one and I will. Thanks.
Still seems weird to me that the computer(s) won't save history codes just because battery is disconnected.
I don't think you can get at the ABS codes, airbag diagnostics and some other stuff without the proprietary equipment, which is dumb, but a generic code reader may get you pointed in the right direction and is good to have.
As for the not learning a new fob: the car can learn four fobs and then it's full. Perhaps the previous owner used up all the slots. You need some other proprietary dealer gizmo for un-learning.
It's also possible that the learn procedures just aren't working; I've seen them not work and not work and then work. As I recall, the M6 cars have to be in reverse to learn; this was left out of the original instructions.
I don't think you can get at the ABS codes, airbag diagnostics and some other stuff without the proprietary equipment, which is dumb, but a generic code reader may get you pointed in the right direction and is good to have.
As for the not learning a new fob: the car can learn four fobs and then it's full. Perhaps the previous owner used up all the slots. You need some other proprietary dealer gizmo for un-learning.
It's also possible that the learn procedures just aren't working; I've seen them not work and not work and then work. As I recall, the M6 cars have to be in reverse to learn; this was left out of the original instructions.
"Proprietary equipment" sounds like "dealer" (or dedicated Vette specialist) only. Ouch!!!!
Time will tell, but I had a VERY hi-miles C5 which gave me less headaches in 3.5 years than this thing has given me in 3 months!
Can anybody confirm for sure that the codes disappear when one disconnects and then reconnect the battery to, in effect, temporarily overcome the problem I described in my first post?
Correct -- car will not learn new fob with either short or long procedure. Mechanic's diagnosis is that defective door lock module precludes this.
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Have you read through the entire thread on programming? Lots of people have had problems and in addition to a good set of instructions, there are many pages of tips and tricks provided by other forum members. The dealership can force the programming with their TECH II but I figure it's better to correct the problem and make the system work right. I would bet aginst the problem being a bad RCDLR. It might be the problem but it certainly wouldn't be the first place to check...as well as being the most expensive place to check...LOL
"Proprietary equipment" sounds like "dealer" (or dedicated Vette specialist) only. Ouch!!!!
Time will tell, but I had a VERY hi-miles C5 which gave me less headaches in 3.5 years than this thing has given me in 3 months!
It takes a high end scanner to read all the systems. I think they still have to purchase additional software packages for different manufacturers but pretty much any shop should have GMs. The basic scanner will only show the standard CELs.
It takes a high end scanner to read all the systems. I think they still have to purchase additional software packages for different manufacturers but pretty much any shop should have GMs. The basic scanner will only show the standard CELs.
Thanks!!!
Turns out the door fix was easy -- some crimping of wires in the door hinge area. So, fob is programmed and door button works...
Now we have to get the CEL + other issues to go off. I have the car back in my possession; it is of course running fine now.
My mechanic has a real fancy Actron device (I think a scanner) but who knows if that covers everything. I might still buy a $90 one from CanOBD2; at least that will help with the CEL bit and might give some clues otherwise -- seems it does the ABS as well...
Last edited by Rapid Fred; Jun 5, 2014 at 07:41 PM.
Turns out the door fix was easy -- some crimping of wires in the door hinge area. So, fob is programmed and door button works...
Now we have to get the CEL + other issues to go off. I have the car back in my possession; it is of course running fine now.
My mechanic has a real fancy Actron device (I think a scanner) but who knows if that covers everything. I might still buy a $90 one from CanOBD2; at least that will help with the CEL bit and might give some clues otherwise -- seems it does the ABS as well...
You can go to stores like Autozone and get a free scan with the basic type of scanner. I picked one up off of Amazon for about $50. Only good for reading check engine lights.