LS3/TR6060 owners... Tell me about the short shifter you have and why it's good/bad
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
LS3/TR6060 owners... Tell me about the short shifter you have and why it's good/bad
I had a Hurst short throw in my C5 and loved the bolt-action feel of the shifter...
I have a '12 Grand Sport now and while the stock shifter feel isn't terrible, it's a little more mushy than I'd like, I'd like it to inspire a little more confidence (especially in the 2-3 shift).
What do you guys have and what would you recommend?
Thanks
I have a '12 Grand Sport now and while the stock shifter feel isn't terrible, it's a little more mushy than I'd like, I'd like it to inspire a little more confidence (especially in the 2-3 shift).
What do you guys have and what would you recommend?
Thanks
#2
Burning Brakes
I had a Hurst short throw in my C5 and loved the bolt-action feel of the shifter...
I have a '12 Grand Sport now and while the stock shifter feel isn't terrible, it's a little more mushy than I'd like, I'd like it to inspire a little more confidence (especially in the 2-3 shift).
What do you guys have and what would you recommend?
Thanks
I have a '12 Grand Sport now and while the stock shifter feel isn't terrible, it's a little more mushy than I'd like, I'd like it to inspire a little more confidence (especially in the 2-3 shift).
What do you guys have and what would you recommend?
Thanks
#4
Drifting
I had a hurst and now an mgw. The mgw feels more precise but there's no way that I will pay for a new one. To me it is just too rich for my blood. Used worked just as good lol
#5
Burning Brakes
It has a much shorter throw than stock & a big plus I noticed is you really know when you're in gear. There was a very slight learning curve when you first start hitting your shifts. Once you learn the shifter it goes in slick as sh*t...(that's what she said)
(http://www.mgwltd.com/corvette_short..._shifter.shtml)
Last edited by dmoneychris; 01-23-2015 at 10:20 PM.
#6
Instructor
I've got the MGW. It's precise and accurate, I have not missed a shift once. But i selected 3rd instead of 1st about 10 times when at a dead stop when I first got the car. Also, I have to pay attention downshifting from 6th. It's easy to select 5th instead of 3rd. Neither of which are an issue, just a driver learning curve.
It's a solid unit and seems to be getting better with milage. When your in Mexico stretching the legs, the MGW shines. Perfect engagement shift after shift. I wouldn't choose anything else.
It's a solid unit and seems to be getting better with milage. When your in Mexico stretching the legs, the MGW shines. Perfect engagement shift after shift. I wouldn't choose anything else.
#7
Ditto, MGW all the way.
As for leaning the shifter, keep the palm of your hand on the side of the ****, not your palm on the top like a ball like you would would a ball shifter ****.
The natural spring load of the shift gate is 3 and 4.
So for 1 and 2 shift gate, pressure over to the left towards your right leg with your palm/side hand pressure will have you finding the first and second gate line each time no problems.
On the shift from 1 to 2, keep palm/side finger pressure to the left to hold the shifter in the left hand gate as you pass the neutral side to side gate point (ride the left hand side of the gate line into 2).
2 to 3, no side pressure on the shifter at all and just push it straight up (will spring index is self into the 3/4 gate line, and does not need to side pressured for the 3 and 4 gears.
3 to 4, just come straight down with the shifter, since it will spring hold itself in this gate line.
4 to 5, pull over to the right with your thumb as you are moving upwards to get the shifter into the 5/6th gate lines once you get to the natural side to side point, and it will find 5th no problem (now riding the right hand side of the 5 and 6th gate lines).
Into 6th, thumb pressure again to hold it in the right hand gate of 5/6 to ride the right hand side of the 5/6 gate line and it finds is way no problems.
Back down is the same in reverse.
As for shifter ****, the stock shifter **** works fine, and if you clock the OEM **** to around 12:15/12:30 via the shaft, will have the side palm surface of the **** feeling perfectly in the gate movement lines.
If you want to change the ****, then go with a MGW race ****, since you still want to hand position the **** with your palm still on the far side of the ****, and not with your palm straight down on top if it.
Really, the only people that have problems with the MGW shifter are those that are trying to shift the shifter with their palm on top of the shifter, or trying to sling shot the shifter into the next position instead (read kiss the trans sync's good by in short over when you are forcing the trans into the next gear, instead of allowing it to slip in instead).
As for leaning the shifter, keep the palm of your hand on the side of the ****, not your palm on the top like a ball like you would would a ball shifter ****.
The natural spring load of the shift gate is 3 and 4.
So for 1 and 2 shift gate, pressure over to the left towards your right leg with your palm/side hand pressure will have you finding the first and second gate line each time no problems.
On the shift from 1 to 2, keep palm/side finger pressure to the left to hold the shifter in the left hand gate as you pass the neutral side to side gate point (ride the left hand side of the gate line into 2).
2 to 3, no side pressure on the shifter at all and just push it straight up (will spring index is self into the 3/4 gate line, and does not need to side pressured for the 3 and 4 gears.
3 to 4, just come straight down with the shifter, since it will spring hold itself in this gate line.
4 to 5, pull over to the right with your thumb as you are moving upwards to get the shifter into the 5/6th gate lines once you get to the natural side to side point, and it will find 5th no problem (now riding the right hand side of the 5 and 6th gate lines).
Into 6th, thumb pressure again to hold it in the right hand gate of 5/6 to ride the right hand side of the 5/6 gate line and it finds is way no problems.
Back down is the same in reverse.
As for shifter ****, the stock shifter **** works fine, and if you clock the OEM **** to around 12:15/12:30 via the shaft, will have the side palm surface of the **** feeling perfectly in the gate movement lines.
If you want to change the ****, then go with a MGW race ****, since you still want to hand position the **** with your palm still on the far side of the ****, and not with your palm straight down on top if it.
Really, the only people that have problems with the MGW shifter are those that are trying to shift the shifter with their palm on top of the shifter, or trying to sling shot the shifter into the next position instead (read kiss the trans sync's good by in short over when you are forcing the trans into the next gear, instead of allowing it to slip in instead).
Last edited by Dano523; 01-24-2015 at 10:53 AM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Since my GS is a 2013 I ended up getting the 60th shifter **** for the top of the MGW shifter. I know where first & reverse are, all the other gears are right there in between...
Last edited by dmoneychris; 01-24-2015 at 11:09 AM.
#10
Safety Car