How much HP will an A6 handle?
03-19-2015, 09:27 PM
#2
Team Owner
Kind of depends on how it's driven.
Primarily street, with street tires, some spirited acceleration and maybe a couple trips to the drag strip every year, 650+ rwhp is probably going to be okay.
Lots of drag racing, sticky tires or drag radials, 500 rwhp, maybe 550 for a while.
Check this for some additional info:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...installed.html
Primarily street, with street tires, some spirited acceleration and maybe a couple trips to the drag strip every year, 650+ rwhp is probably going to be okay.
Lots of drag racing, sticky tires or drag radials, 500 rwhp, maybe 550 for a while.
Check this for some additional info:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...installed.html
05-03-2017, 08:17 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
Generally, yes, the manual transmissions will live longer at higher power levels. How high and how long depend on usage just as with the A6.
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J. Dub (05-03-2017)
05-03-2017, 10:02 AM
#5
This has been debated and discussed extensively on here already, and there's some good info and a lot of speculative and negative comment, some of which comes from otherwise knowledgeable folks, who have simply written off the A6 because it doesn't work the what they think it should.
IMV, a stock A6 will handle as much horsepower as you can safely make out of stock bottom end LS3, PROVIDED:
1. You keep the trans fluid temps at a reasonable level (<200 degrees) with a good cooler, and ;
2. The transmission is properly tuned by someone who understands how these transmissions works.
The first part is easy. Just get yourself the largest fin and plate type cooler you can find and bypass the stock in-radiator cooler (use the cooler as a stand-alone). This has helped keep the TFTs in my car well below 190* in stop and go traffic conditions, even with a 3600 stall converter.
As far as tuning is concerned, my research and experience with tuning these trans suggests that the one thing that kills these transmissions is when a tuner focuses only on the engine tune and manipulates the MAF tables or disables the MAF entirely, which these transmissions need to calculate torque input in order to work properly. There's a few guys on these forums, like subfloor and realcanuk, as well as some on the HPT forums, that know how these transmissions work and how to tune them properly. I've learned a lot from guys like that, and I've managed, after many months of tweaking, to get my A6 to work how it want it to.
So, if it's an all out setup running a SD tune with the MAF disabled, you're probably going to end up spending a lot of money on trans rebuilds and end up cursing the "weakness" of the A6 before switching to a "stronger" A4.
But, to answer your question specifically by example, as far as the physical strength of the 6L80 is concerned, I can only tell you that I have a '08 GMC Sierra Denali AWD that weighs 5740lbs with me in it, and I have run that thing 100s of times with as much as a "200 shot" (.087" N2O jet) on it, spraying it full whack out of the hole, ripping all 4 tires, mostly with the TM disabled, and that trans is still alive after 40,000+ very hard miles. I've run more sub-8 second 1/8 mile ETs than I can remember with it like that. So, I know these transmissions are tough.
IMV, a stock A6 will handle as much horsepower as you can safely make out of stock bottom end LS3, PROVIDED:
1. You keep the trans fluid temps at a reasonable level (<200 degrees) with a good cooler, and ;
2. The transmission is properly tuned by someone who understands how these transmissions works.
The first part is easy. Just get yourself the largest fin and plate type cooler you can find and bypass the stock in-radiator cooler (use the cooler as a stand-alone). This has helped keep the TFTs in my car well below 190* in stop and go traffic conditions, even with a 3600 stall converter.
As far as tuning is concerned, my research and experience with tuning these trans suggests that the one thing that kills these transmissions is when a tuner focuses only on the engine tune and manipulates the MAF tables or disables the MAF entirely, which these transmissions need to calculate torque input in order to work properly. There's a few guys on these forums, like subfloor and realcanuk, as well as some on the HPT forums, that know how these transmissions work and how to tune them properly. I've learned a lot from guys like that, and I've managed, after many months of tweaking, to get my A6 to work how it want it to.
So, if it's an all out setup running a SD tune with the MAF disabled, you're probably going to end up spending a lot of money on trans rebuilds and end up cursing the "weakness" of the A6 before switching to a "stronger" A4.
But, to answer your question specifically by example, as far as the physical strength of the 6L80 is concerned, I can only tell you that I have a '08 GMC Sierra Denali AWD that weighs 5740lbs with me in it, and I have run that thing 100s of times with as much as a "200 shot" (.087" N2O jet) on it, spraying it full whack out of the hole, ripping all 4 tires, mostly with the TM disabled, and that trans is still alive after 40,000+ very hard miles. I've run more sub-8 second 1/8 mile ETs than I can remember with it like that. So, I know these transmissions are tough.
05-03-2017, 12:20 PM
#6
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05-03-2017, 01:10 PM
#7
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This has been debated and discussed extensively on here already, and there's some good info and a lot of speculative and negative comment, some of which comes from otherwise knowledgeable folks, who have simply written off the A6 because it doesn't work the what they think it should.
IMV, a stock A6 will handle as much horsepower as you can safely make out of stock bottom end LS3, PROVIDED:
1. You keep the trans fluid temps at a reasonable level (<200 degrees) with a good cooler, and ;
2. The transmission is properly tuned by someone who understands how these transmissions works.
The first part is easy. Just get yourself the largest fin and plate type cooler you can find and bypass the stock in-radiator cooler (use the cooler as a stand-alone). This has helped keep the TFTs in my car well below 190* in stop and go traffic conditions, even with a 3600 stall converter.
As far as tuning is concerned, my research and experience with tuning these trans suggests that the one thing that kills these transmissions is when a tuner focuses only on the engine tune and manipulates the MAF tables or disables the MAF entirely, which these transmissions need to calculate torque input in order to work properly. There's a few guys on these forums, like subfloor and realcanuk, as well as some on the HPT forums, that know how these transmissions work and how to tune them properly. I've learned a lot from guys like that, and I've managed, after many months of tweaking, to get my A6 to work how it want it to.
So, if it's an all out setup running a SD tune with the MAF disabled, you're probably going to end up spending a lot of money on trans rebuilds and end up cursing the "weakness" of the A6 before switching to a "stronger" A4.
But, to answer your question specifically by example, as far as the physical strength of the 6L80 is concerned, I can only tell you that I have a '08 GMC Sierra Denali AWD that weighs 5740lbs with me in it, and I have run that thing 100s of times with as much as a "200 shot" (.087" N2O jet) on it, spraying it full whack out of the hole, ripping all 4 tires, mostly with the TM disabled, and that trans is still alive after 40,000+ very hard miles. I've run more sub-8 second 1/8 mile ETs than I can remember with it like that. So, I know these transmissions are tough.
IMV, a stock A6 will handle as much horsepower as you can safely make out of stock bottom end LS3, PROVIDED:
1. You keep the trans fluid temps at a reasonable level (<200 degrees) with a good cooler, and ;
2. The transmission is properly tuned by someone who understands how these transmissions works.
The first part is easy. Just get yourself the largest fin and plate type cooler you can find and bypass the stock in-radiator cooler (use the cooler as a stand-alone). This has helped keep the TFTs in my car well below 190* in stop and go traffic conditions, even with a 3600 stall converter.
As far as tuning is concerned, my research and experience with tuning these trans suggests that the one thing that kills these transmissions is when a tuner focuses only on the engine tune and manipulates the MAF tables or disables the MAF entirely, which these transmissions need to calculate torque input in order to work properly. There's a few guys on these forums, like subfloor and realcanuk, as well as some on the HPT forums, that know how these transmissions work and how to tune them properly. I've learned a lot from guys like that, and I've managed, after many months of tweaking, to get my A6 to work how it want it to.
So, if it's an all out setup running a SD tune with the MAF disabled, you're probably going to end up spending a lot of money on trans rebuilds and end up cursing the "weakness" of the A6 before switching to a "stronger" A4.
But, to answer your question specifically by example, as far as the physical strength of the 6L80 is concerned, I can only tell you that I have a '08 GMC Sierra Denali AWD that weighs 5740lbs with me in it, and I have run that thing 100s of times with as much as a "200 shot" (.087" N2O jet) on it, spraying it full whack out of the hole, ripping all 4 tires, mostly with the TM disabled, and that trans is still alive after 40,000+ very hard miles. I've run more sub-8 second 1/8 mile ETs than I can remember with it like that. So, I know these transmissions are tough.
Even though my HP is well under 500, I'm over 144K sometimes hard miles that includes more than 400 1/4 mile passes. High temperature is the enemy, but too low also causes shifting issues. Use a cooler(s) that is overkill, but put in an inline t-stat to limit the low side. Ideally, you'd like to see 175 +/- 15 degrees.
05-03-2017, 01:55 PM
#8
Even though my HP is well under 500, I'm over 144K sometimes hard miles that includes more than 400 1/4 mile passes. High temperature is the enemy, but too low also causes shifting issues. Use a cooler(s) that is overkill, but put in an inline t-stat to limit the low side. Ideally, you'd like to see 175 +/- 15 degrees.
05-04-2017, 02:03 AM
#9
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HOXXOH, what kind of T-Stat are you using, and where did you get it from? I don't have much trouble get the trans to get up to 140* fairly quickly though, even with running the cooler as a stand alone. Whilst cruising it ranges between 155-165* and if I pressure it with hard launches or in stop and go traffic it can get up to ~195*.
Their advertising and install instructions leave a lot to be desired, so you just don't know what to expect.
05-04-2017, 12:00 PM
#10
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I just thought I'd add one more thing to this thread that relates to the A6 function.
Without knowing the exact coefficient of volumetric thermal expansion of Dexron VI, I picked one on the conservative side of common fluids. Maybe one of our members who has access to more precision instruments than a kitchen oven and a teaspoon, can find a better number than the .0005/1 F that I used.
Anyway, the reason that a minimum temperature needs to be attained as the power increases, is directly related to the volume. When filling the transmission to the GM spec it calls for a temp range of 86-122 F to drain excess fluid. That's as much as a 1/4 quart difference. Now if you were at 104 F (exact center of the range), by the time you reach 154 F the expansion has gained about an additional 1/3 quart. However, GM had expectations that the fluid temperature would be nearly identical to the coolant temps, or about 190 F in normal operation. So the difference means you'd be 1/3 quart lower than the perfect number when the fluid is at 154 F.
Now let me throw another variable into the mix. If you do a fluid check in your garage and don't compensate for the grade of the floor (std practice is 1/8" per foot) when trying to level the car, you could be an additional 1/4 quart low.
If you start adding up the worst case for fluid fill and 154 F, you could be nearly 3/4 quart lower than GM expects. So a WOT hit from a low RPM won't allow a quick enough pressure rise to keep the converter full and you'll get a flat spot in the RPM curve before the pump recovers. The more power you have, the longer the recovery time.
Keep in mind that I used a conservative number for calculations. Just plain motor oil has a 40% higher value, so if Dexron is that high, being a full quart down is possible.
The bottom line is that it's a lot safer to be real level and close to 104 F on the fluid check and then add an extra 1/2 quart for higher power levels and another 1/2 quart if you launch around the 150 F area.
Without knowing the exact coefficient of volumetric thermal expansion of Dexron VI, I picked one on the conservative side of common fluids. Maybe one of our members who has access to more precision instruments than a kitchen oven and a teaspoon, can find a better number than the .0005/1 F that I used.
Anyway, the reason that a minimum temperature needs to be attained as the power increases, is directly related to the volume. When filling the transmission to the GM spec it calls for a temp range of 86-122 F to drain excess fluid. That's as much as a 1/4 quart difference. Now if you were at 104 F (exact center of the range), by the time you reach 154 F the expansion has gained about an additional 1/3 quart. However, GM had expectations that the fluid temperature would be nearly identical to the coolant temps, or about 190 F in normal operation. So the difference means you'd be 1/3 quart lower than the perfect number when the fluid is at 154 F.
Now let me throw another variable into the mix. If you do a fluid check in your garage and don't compensate for the grade of the floor (std practice is 1/8" per foot) when trying to level the car, you could be an additional 1/4 quart low.
If you start adding up the worst case for fluid fill and 154 F, you could be nearly 3/4 quart lower than GM expects. So a WOT hit from a low RPM won't allow a quick enough pressure rise to keep the converter full and you'll get a flat spot in the RPM curve before the pump recovers. The more power you have, the longer the recovery time.
Keep in mind that I used a conservative number for calculations. Just plain motor oil has a 40% higher value, so if Dexron is that high, being a full quart down is possible.
The bottom line is that it's a lot safer to be real level and close to 104 F on the fluid check and then add an extra 1/2 quart for higher power levels and another 1/2 quart if you launch around the 150 F area.
10-30-2017, 07:32 PM
#11
This has been debated and discussed extensively on here already, and there's some good info and a lot of speculative and negative comment, some of which comes from otherwise knowledgeable folks, who have simply written off the A6 because it doesn't work the what they think it should.
IMV, a stock A6 will handle as much horsepower as you can safely make out of stock bottom end LS3, PROVIDED:
1. You keep the trans fluid temps at a reasonable level (<200 degrees) with a good cooler, and ;
2. The transmission is properly tuned by someone who understands how these transmissions works.
The first part is easy. Just get yourself the largest fin and plate type cooler you can find and bypass the stock in-radiator cooler (use the cooler as a stand-alone). This has helped keep the TFTs in my car well below 190* in stop and go traffic conditions, even with a 3600 stall converter.
As far as tuning is concerned, my research and experience with tuning these trans suggests that the one thing that kills these transmissions is when a tuner focuses only on the engine tune and manipulates the MAF tables or disables the MAF entirely, which these transmissions need to calculate torque input in order to work properly. There's a few guys on these forums, like subfloor and realcanuk, as well as some on the HPT forums, that know how these transmissions work and how to tune them properly. I've learned a lot from guys like that, and I've managed, after many months of tweaking, to get my A6 to work how it want it to.
So, if it's an all out setup running a SD tune with the MAF disabled, you're probably going to end up spending a lot of money on trans rebuilds and end up cursing the "weakness" of the A6 before switching to a "stronger" A4.
But, to answer your question specifically by example, as far as the physical strength of the 6L80 is concerned, I can only tell you that I have a '08 GMC Sierra Denali AWD that weighs 5740lbs with me in it, and I have run that thing 100s of times with as much as a "200 shot" (.087" N2O jet) on it, spraying it full whack out of the hole, ripping all 4 tires, mostly with the TM disabled, and that trans is still alive after 40,000+ very hard miles. I've run more sub-8 second 1/8 mile ETs than I can remember with it like that. So, I know these transmissions are tough.
IMV, a stock A6 will handle as much horsepower as you can safely make out of stock bottom end LS3, PROVIDED:
1. You keep the trans fluid temps at a reasonable level (<200 degrees) with a good cooler, and ;
2. The transmission is properly tuned by someone who understands how these transmissions works.
The first part is easy. Just get yourself the largest fin and plate type cooler you can find and bypass the stock in-radiator cooler (use the cooler as a stand-alone). This has helped keep the TFTs in my car well below 190* in stop and go traffic conditions, even with a 3600 stall converter.
As far as tuning is concerned, my research and experience with tuning these trans suggests that the one thing that kills these transmissions is when a tuner focuses only on the engine tune and manipulates the MAF tables or disables the MAF entirely, which these transmissions need to calculate torque input in order to work properly. There's a few guys on these forums, like subfloor and realcanuk, as well as some on the HPT forums, that know how these transmissions work and how to tune them properly. I've learned a lot from guys like that, and I've managed, after many months of tweaking, to get my A6 to work how it want it to.
So, if it's an all out setup running a SD tune with the MAF disabled, you're probably going to end up spending a lot of money on trans rebuilds and end up cursing the "weakness" of the A6 before switching to a "stronger" A4.
But, to answer your question specifically by example, as far as the physical strength of the 6L80 is concerned, I can only tell you that I have a '08 GMC Sierra Denali AWD that weighs 5740lbs with me in it, and I have run that thing 100s of times with as much as a "200 shot" (.087" N2O jet) on it, spraying it full whack out of the hole, ripping all 4 tires, mostly with the TM disabled, and that trans is still alive after 40,000+ very hard miles. I've run more sub-8 second 1/8 mile ETs than I can remember with it like that. So, I know these transmissions are tough.
Torque Management...ya or nay?
Pls explain the reasoning as I am mentally limited about this and I hear conflicting reasons all the time.
10-31-2017, 06:12 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
one of my buddies had a stock 6l80 with about 50k miles on it behind a heads and cam LS7 and was spraying a 400 shot, lasted a long time before it broke. He was running this setup for a lot of pass', he ended up breaking a hard part, the clutches never slipped. The car was tuned by RBE tuning in Mississippi
I have one that was just a bolt on car (making around 390 RWHP) and i went through 3 or 4 trans rebuilds, i used a few different tuners over the years (avoid C O W). Now i only have RBE tuning tune my car.
I think these 2 cars show its all in the tune.
I have one that was just a bolt on car (making around 390 RWHP) and i went through 3 or 4 trans rebuilds, i used a few different tuners over the years (avoid C O W). Now i only have RBE tuning tune my car.
I think these 2 cars show its all in the tune.
11-01-2017, 10:18 AM
#13
The rationale behind TM is simply - you momentarily reduce power for the shift, to ease the shock on the clutch packs and other internals from the instant extra load created by the trans going into a higher gear. In some instances it can actually help you ET slightly better by not breaking the tires loose on the shift. I believe the HOXXOH has documented that.
I’ve heard the theory about too much TM causing clutches to slip, but I personally believe that’s BS, because the TM is controlled by the ECM and is all about reducing engine power, not controlling clutch pack apply pressure or anything of that sort.
11-01-2017, 02:59 PM
#14
Supporting Vendor
I’m currently running it with only ignition timing controlling TM (rather than throttle) and I have TM max ignition retard limited to like 8*, iirc, so it reduces timing to that level on the shift.
The rationale behind TM is simply - you momentarily reduce power for the shift, to ease the shock on the clutch packs and other internals from the instant extra load created by the trans going into a higher gear. In some instances it can actually help you ET slightly better by not breaking the tires loose on the shift. I believe the HOXXOH has documented that.
I’ve heard the theory about too much TM causing clutches to slip, but I personally believe that’s BS, because the TM is controlled by the ECM and is all about reducing engine power, not controlling clutch pack apply pressure or anything of that sort.
The rationale behind TM is simply - you momentarily reduce power for the shift, to ease the shock on the clutch packs and other internals from the instant extra load created by the trans going into a higher gear. In some instances it can actually help you ET slightly better by not breaking the tires loose on the shift. I believe the HOXXOH has documented that.
I’ve heard the theory about too much TM causing clutches to slip, but I personally believe that’s BS, because the TM is controlled by the ECM and is all about reducing engine power, not controlling clutch pack apply pressure or anything of that sort.
I've made thousands of passes without any TM in my tune whatsoever and the clutch packs have held up just fine without it, both the upgraded Alto ones and the ones that are still stock since Alto doesn't make them for all the different gears.
Prior to that I ran several stock transmissions without TM and it wasn't until I started making over 600rwhp that I started having problems as that seems to be the limit of what a stock one will handle.
11-01-2017, 08:50 PM
#15
Based on my experience building and/or tuning different C6s I respectfully disagree.
I've made thousands of passes without any TM in my tune whatsoever and the clutch packs have held up just fine without it, both the upgraded Alto ones and the ones that are still stock since Alto doesn't make them for all the different gears.
Prior to that I ran several stock transmissions without TM and it wasn't until I started making over 600rwhp that I started having problems as that seems to be the limit of what a stock one will handle.
I've made thousands of passes without any TM in my tune whatsoever and the clutch packs have held up just fine without it, both the upgraded Alto ones and the ones that are still stock since Alto doesn't make them for all the different gears.
Prior to that I ran several stock transmissions without TM and it wasn't until I started making over 600rwhp that I started having problems as that seems to be the limit of what a stock one will handle.
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z06scentair (11-01-2017)
11-01-2017, 11:18 PM
#16
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I’m currently running it with only ignition timing controlling TM (rather than throttle) and I have TM max ignition retard limited to like 8*, iirc, so it reduces timing to that level on the shift.
The rationale behind TM is simply - you momentarily reduce power for the shift, to ease the shock on the clutch packs and other internals from the instant extra load created by the trans going into a higher gear. In some instances it can actually help you ET slightly better by not breaking the tires loose on the shift. I believe the HOXXOH has documented that.
I’ve heard the theory about too much TM causing clutches to slip, but I personally believe that’s BS, because the TM is controlled by the ECM and is all about reducing engine power, not controlling clutch pack apply pressure or anything of that sort.
The rationale behind TM is simply - you momentarily reduce power for the shift, to ease the shock on the clutch packs and other internals from the instant extra load created by the trans going into a higher gear. In some instances it can actually help you ET slightly better by not breaking the tires loose on the shift. I believe the HOXXOH has documented that.
I’ve heard the theory about too much TM causing clutches to slip, but I personally believe that’s BS, because the TM is controlled by the ECM and is all about reducing engine power, not controlling clutch pack apply pressure or anything of that sort.
11-01-2017, 11:38 PM
#17
That’s exactly what I’m saying: that you have posted before that you can/have run a better ET with TM on than with it disabled, which makes sense to me, since the harder shift from zero TM will break the tires loose.
11-02-2017, 03:11 PM
#18
Supporting Vendor
If you're breaking the tires loose on a shift change then I'd be inclined to take a look at your suspension and/or tire set up. I shift at around 7700-7800, but rather than loosing traction I've actually pulled the wheels off the ground on my 1-2 shift according to people who have been watching the car. While the same doesn't happen on the 2-3 I'm definitely not spinning much, if at all.
While I do recall seeing the occasional bit of wheelspin in the past, it has a negligible affect on my ET since the Hoosiers recover so quickly. The Hoosiers also help on the launch too because wen I used to run MTs if I didn't hook properly the run would be pretty much over at the start. With the Hoosiers however I've been able to rehook and actually win several races that I otherwise would have lost with the MTs.
It's my opinion that if you're running faster with TM turned on and it's primarily because of traction loss, then you're leaving ET on the table that could easily be gained back. The thing with turning on TM via timing (which is how I have my rev-limiter set up) is that you're allowing the engine to fall out of the power band and the recovery time is what ends up slowing you down.
I think the bottom line is that TM being enabled does not necessarily equate to having wheelspin on each shift and once you can get it resolved, you'll run noticeably quicker with it turned off without hurting your transmission if it's tuned properly.
11-02-2017, 03:41 PM
#19
I've made a lot of back to back test runs, with TM enabled and then without it. Every time I've done this (with three different cars and with various engines in each) having TM turned on has slowed me down by 1/10th per shift.
If you're breaking the tires loose on a shift change then I'd be inclined to take a look at your suspension and/or tire set up. I shift at around 7700-7800, but rather than loosing traction I've actually pulled the wheels off the ground on my 1-2 shift according to people who have been watching the car. While the same doesn't happen on the 2-3 I'm definitely not spinning much, if at all.
While I do recall seeing the occasional bit of wheelspin in the past, it has a negligible affect on my ET since the Hoosiers recover so quickly. The Hoosiers also help on the launch too because wen I used to run MTs if I didn't hook properly the run would be pretty much over at the start. With the Hoosiers however I've been able to rehook and actually win several races that I otherwise would have lost with the MTs.
It's my opinion that if you're running faster with TM turned on and it's primarily because of traction loss, then you're leaving ET on the table that could easily be gained back. The thing with turning on TM via timing (which is how I have my rev-limiter set up) is that you're allowing the engine to fall out of the power band and the recovery time is what ends up slowing you down.
I think the bottom line is that TM being enabled does not necessarily equate to having wheelspin on each shift and once you can get it resolved, you'll run noticeably quicker with it turned off without hurting your transmission if it's tuned properly.
If you're breaking the tires loose on a shift change then I'd be inclined to take a look at your suspension and/or tire set up. I shift at around 7700-7800, but rather than loosing traction I've actually pulled the wheels off the ground on my 1-2 shift according to people who have been watching the car. While the same doesn't happen on the 2-3 I'm definitely not spinning much, if at all.
While I do recall seeing the occasional bit of wheelspin in the past, it has a negligible affect on my ET since the Hoosiers recover so quickly. The Hoosiers also help on the launch too because wen I used to run MTs if I didn't hook properly the run would be pretty much over at the start. With the Hoosiers however I've been able to rehook and actually win several races that I otherwise would have lost with the MTs.
It's my opinion that if you're running faster with TM turned on and it's primarily because of traction loss, then you're leaving ET on the table that could easily be gained back. The thing with turning on TM via timing (which is how I have my rev-limiter set up) is that you're allowing the engine to fall out of the power band and the recovery time is what ends up slowing you down.
I think the bottom line is that TM being enabled does not necessarily equate to having wheelspin on each shift and once you can get it resolved, you'll run noticeably quicker with it turned off without hurting your transmission if it's tuned properly.
I suppose it depends on what power level you're at, what tire you're running, track surface, shift times/pressures, etc., how much of a difference it makes.
I have never tested my car at a track (since we don't have one anymore
) but I can tell you that with the 3:42s and the FTI3600, ever since I put the blower on it, whether TM is on or off don't make one hoot of a difference on the 1-2 or even the 2-3 shift, because the sumbitch is spinning so violently already anyways! This is with a 345/30/19 NT05R, but it still doesn't hook much better with 325/45/17 M&Hs on an un-prepped surface.The only reason that I've added back a bit of timing controlled TM is to soften the shifts for street driving, which I barely even get to do anymore.
11-02-2017, 04:16 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
I will chime in and for starters say that Chris (subfloor) knows what he is talking about and I am not here to argue, just share a difference of opinion.
I am a total believer in lessening TM, but not removing it completely, for the longevity of the trans. The clutches need time to release/engage and with big power I think it is just harder on them. This opinion is shared by some very smart guys in the tuning world.
My stock trans with TM removed lasted me about 100 runs at the track and maybe 6000 miles on the street after my car was first modded. It then burnt up the 4/5/6 clutches. This could have been tune related as I didn't know much about it back then, and it wsnt tuned by me.
Now I tune my trans myself, and although I don't go to the track anymore, and it is upgraded, it has lasted perfectly with more miles on it, much more power, and some abuse in mexico.
I am a total believer in lessening TM, but not removing it completely, for the longevity of the trans. The clutches need time to release/engage and with big power I think it is just harder on them. This opinion is shared by some very smart guys in the tuning world.
My stock trans with TM removed lasted me about 100 runs at the track and maybe 6000 miles on the street after my car was first modded. It then burnt up the 4/5/6 clutches. This could have been tune related as I didn't know much about it back then, and it wsnt tuned by me.
Now I tune my trans myself, and although I don't go to the track anymore, and it is upgraded, it has lasted perfectly with more miles on it, much more power, and some abuse in mexico.