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C6 clutch replace with full pics

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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 11:46 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Really sucks when you try to save $80 by not installing a metal TB race from the start, and use the OEM plastic race instead.

Guessing that will never be a saving cost you ever consider again.
P.S, your slave looks fine, and just the plastic TB race on the slave is the part that when south from the amount of heat for repeat strip clutch slips in the Bell housing instead.

LOL this was my summer
-z06 oem clutch to ZR1 clutch------then started drag racing for the first time and got hooked
-slave fail (leaked like a fountain) Monster bearing support mod + new slave and back out
-Zr1 clutch fail, but to be fair I beat the heck out of it and it I did well
installed dyad lasted a weekend
-installed a new zr1 lol

So i have dropped mine 4 times this summer and now there is a brand new clutch with 0 miles on it and the car is parked for winter. Wasn't aware of the bearing support mod Dano when I installed the first Zr1 kit. Had I, I would surly have bought it as I loved the idea of it as soon as I knew of it.
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 07:17 AM
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Great write up, thanks for posting!
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by slayer6x6
Great write up, thanks for posting!

Thank you
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 02:47 PM
  #24  
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wanna do mine!!???
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 02:58 PM
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Sure Montréal is about 1.5 hrs away from here
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rpmextra
Hope this helps a few, Enjoy my Friends.
Outstanding write up! Three cheers
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mack1919
Outstanding write up! Three cheers
thank you sir
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 10:10 PM
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Started on this today. Getting the factory cats off the manifolds is a pain in the butt! I don't know how far out of the way it needs to be, the passenger side cat is still attached but the manifold is unbolted from the head. Drivers side cat is disconnected from the manifold and off the car. Hope that's enough space.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by flyby763
Started on this today. Getting the factory cats off the manifolds is a pain in the butt! I don't know how far out of the way it needs to be, the passenger side cat is still attached but the manifold is unbolted from the head. Drivers side cat is disconnected from the manifold and off the car. Hope that's enough space.
Yes I remember the angles on the OEM bolts (manifold to Cat) are not in ideal locations. You just need room for the bellhousing to come out. With headers, I take off the driver side as it's very quick, and on the passenger side, I remove the plugs not to brake them and only unbolt the header. I don't remove it but can move it enough that its out of my way. So I would say as long as you can clear the bellhousing by tossing it over, you'll be ok

Last edited by rpmextra; Oct 20, 2015 at 11:06 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by flyby763
Started on this today. Getting the factory cats off the manifolds is a pain in the butt! I don't know how far out of the way it needs to be, the passenger side cat is still attached but the manifold is unbolted from the head. Drivers side cat is disconnected from the manifold and off the car. Hope that's enough space.
What model is yours?

On 05's at least all you have to do is remove the two bolts that hold the cat to the manifold, two bolts that hold the cat to the H pipe, then it falls off, and you're done. No need to mess with the manifolds.

I now have Z06 manifolds and they are a bit more of a pain. On those I did have to remove the manifolds from the heads to get the cats off.
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
What model is yours?

On 05's at least all you have to do is remove the two bolts that hold the cat to the manifold, two bolts that hold the cat to the H pipe, then it falls off, and you're done. No need to mess with the manifolds.

I now have Z06 manifolds and they are a bit more of a pain. On those I did have to remove the manifolds from the heads to get the cats off.
08 z06. 4 bolts per cat. 3 are easy to get to on the drivers side. Passenger side not so much
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Old Oct 20, 2015 | 11:16 PM
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That would explain it. I feel your pain
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 04:27 PM
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This piece was on my crank behind the flywheel. Do I need to leave in on with the new one or does it stay off with the old? I didn't even notice it til it spun when I was pulling the pilot bearing out..
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 04:37 PM
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Mine didn't have one is all I can say
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by flyby763
This piece was on my crank behind the flywheel. Do I need to leave in on with the new one or does it stay off with the old? I didn't even notice it til it spun when I was pulling the pilot bearing out..
Try this. Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the shim at different points around its circumference. The shim could be there to correct for a minor wobble of the crank flange or the flywheel. Just a guess.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 05:28 PM
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My 09 has that as well and I leave them in place
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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Thanks guys
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 12:45 PM
  #38  
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What's the trick to getting the line that goes from the slave to the master up into the tunnel without bending the **** out of it?

Also, my Katech bleeder is leaking at the L shaped bend, it has been loose there since before I installed it, is it supposed to be that way??
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 01:15 PM
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The trick is bending the **** out of it, lol

If you've got a picture I can tell you whether that's what I had to do or not... I did have to bend the line a little bit on mine to get to go up towards the master
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 01:38 PM
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Well I did that, and once I got it all together it was leaking along with my Katech bleeder. So now its all back apart again, I ordered a new line and I am waiting to hear back from Katech on the bleeder. Sucks...
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