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Just got finished up with an ls7 swap, so I figured this would be the place to ask. Currently im running it with the ARE Z06 tank, and ARE breather can...I idled it or a bit, but not long, as I'm not tuned. Havent even gotten it to operating temp yet. During the short time i did idle it, I got some smoke out of the breather can for the tank...this is with the filter off, as I need a shorter one for hood clearance. Is this normal?
Last edited by Nopps; 09-14-2015 at 07:44 PM.
Reason: ...
blow-by? I think the CC is vented through the tank but just guessing
That's what I'm worried about, but its clearish and not under pressure...kinda like steam coming off of a hot cup of coffee... so its kinda not a textbook blow by scenario, but definatelty worries me. I hope it's moisture, or assembly lube from the heads burning off, or just normal all together, but this is the first time I've done a drysump setup and the first time I've vented a crankcase to atmosphere...I really don't know what's normal in this situation honestly?
Can you go over all of your routing and include pictures? One thing to know is a vented can cannot evacuate the crankcase of the damaging combustion by-products, and if you do not have a proper evacuation system then what your seeing is the vapors of all the damaging compounds that are seeping out. This would indicate no flushing or evacuation is taking place. Engine life is directly impacted by how well you are evacuating out the suspended harmful compounds before they can condense and mix with the engine oil, and unless your changing oil after every outing then you are allowing accelerated wear and damage to the engines internal parts as well as leaving power on the table due to piston ring instability.
Post pic's and give me more info and I can walk you through doing it all correctly.
Also let me know if you want data on how this will cause damage over time allowing pressure to first build and then vent. You must constantly draw vacuum/suction on one bank and provide clean filtered MAF metered air into the opposite to facilitate evacuation.
Can you go over all of your routing and include pictures? One thing to know is a vented can cannot evacuate the crankcase of the damaging combustion by-products, and if you do not have a proper evacuation system then what your seeing is the vapors of all the damaging compounds that are seeping out. This would indicate no flushing or evacuation is taking place. Engine life is directly impacted by how well you are evacuating out the suspended harmful compounds before they can condense and mix with the engine oil, and unless your changing oil after every outing then you are allowing accelerated wear and damage to the engines internal parts as well as leaving power on the table due to piston ring instability.
Post pic's and give me more info and I can walk you through doing it all correctly.
Also let me know if you want data on how this will cause damage over time allowing pressure to first build and then vent. You must constantly draw vacuum/suction on one bank and provide clean filtered MAF metered air into the opposite to facilitate evacuation.
I'd be happy to....I have an ARE stage 3 tank, with a vent can coupled to it via a -10 hose and 2 90 degree -10 hose ends. The lowest point in the vent can is slightly higher than the highest point in the tank. However, the valve covers are slightly higher than the vent can... but the valve covers vent to a port in the tank that is lower than the port that the can vents from, so I'm guessing it's OK? They are Katech covers and each basically have 3/8 npt to -6an adapter fittings, and -6 an hose leaving each of the ports and joining together down the line at a -10 an tee union. -10 an hose connects to the lower ventilation port at the tank from there. Pictures coming shortly.
Can you go over all of your routing and include pictures? One thing to know is a vented can cannot evacuate the crankcase of the damaging combustion by-products, and if you do not have a proper evacuation system then what your seeing is the vapors of all the damaging compounds that are seeping out. This would indicate no flushing or evacuation is taking place. Engine life is directly impacted by how well you are evacuating out the suspended harmful compounds before they can condense and mix with the engine oil, and unless your changing oil after every outing then you are allowing accelerated wear and damage to the engines internal parts as well as leaving power on the table due to piston ring instability.
Post pic's and give me more info and I can walk you through doing it all correctly.
Also let me know if you want data on how this will cause damage over time allowing pressure to first build and then vent. You must constantly draw vacuum/suction on one bank and provide clean filtered MAF metered air into the opposite to facilitate evacuation.
Finally, I've been preaching this for years. Very well stated. Thought I was the only one on here who believes in the value of a properly functioning PCV system.
You need to provide vacuum on the crankcase and provide a fresh air supply to the crankcase that is metered by the MAF for optimal tuning. If you let non-metered air into the intake via the PCV system, it'll throw your tune off a bit.
OP please also provide what's been done to this engine. Is it a fresh rebuild? It's normal to get more blow by until the rings seat. You might want to take a video of what you are seeing and post it, you'll get some good advice.
The advice from COSPEED2 above is excellent advice. I'm sure he will provide you with proper routing for your PCV system, if not, there are diagrams here that can be copied and pasted.
Can you go over all of your routing and include pictures? One thing to know is a vented can cannot evacuate the crankcase of the damaging combustion by-products, and if you do not have a proper evacuation system then what your seeing is the vapors of all the damaging compounds that are seeping out. This would indicate no flushing or evacuation is taking place. Engine life is directly impacted by how well you are evacuating out the suspended harmful compounds before they can condense and mix with the engine oil, and unless your changing oil after every outing then you are allowing accelerated wear and damage to the engines internal parts as well as leaving power on the table due to piston ring instability.
Post pic's and give me more info and I can walk you through doing it all correctly.
Also let me know if you want data on how this will cause damage over time allowing pressure to first build and then vent. You must constantly draw vacuum/suction on one bank and provide clean filtered MAF metered air into the opposite to facilitate evacuation.
Please either show or sketch where the port from the valley cover is going, and where the port on the intake is going.
This is the setup I'd recommend. Except this diagram is missing the clean air supply to the dry sump which hooks up behind the maf. Will have to see if I can find a chart with that on it.
Here's one that shows the clean supply line to the oil tank but no catch can, you can see where the catch can goes from the one above.
Can you go over all of your routing and include pictures? One thing to know is a vented can cannot evacuate the crankcase of the damaging combustion by-products, and if you do not have a proper evacuation system then what your seeing is the vapors of all the damaging compounds that are seeping out. This would indicate no flushing or evacuation is taking place. Engine life is directly impacted by how well you are evacuating out the suspended harmful compounds before they can condense and mix with the engine oil, and unless your changing oil after every outing then you are allowing accelerated wear and damage to the engines internal parts as well as leaving power on the table due to piston ring instability.
Post pic's and give me more info and I can walk you through doing it all correctly.
Also let me know if you want data on how this will cause damage over time allowing pressure to first build and then vent. You must constantly draw vacuum/suction on one bank and provide clean filtered MAF metered air into the opposite to facilitate evacuation.
Here is the -10 tee union that joins the -6 hoses from the cover...its behind the catch can (may be hard to see in its entirety die to shadows from lighting)
Please either show or sketch where the port from the valley cover is going, and where the port on the intake is going.
This is the setup I'd recommend. Except this diagram is missing the clean air supply to the dry sump which hooks up behind the maf. Will have to see if I can find a chart with that on it.
Here's one that shows the clean supply line to the oil tank but no catch can, you can see where the catch can goes from the one above.
This is what I have as of now. Pick it apart man, I really appreciate the input. If it's all jacked up, so be it, I just want it right.
Excellent Joe, I am pretty new here, but have worked in the industry designing PCV and crankcase evacuation systems, last was for GM a few years before the new LT1 and LT4 engines. So many factors not considered and those just venting are guaranteeing a short life for the engine for many reasons, mainly the damaging contaminates entering the crankcase being:
Water
Sulfuric acid
Un-burnt fuel
abrasive soot and carbon particles
and more.
The acid attacks the bearing and journal surfaces, and the soot and carbon are responsible for over 70% of all internal engine wear...and that is WITH a proper evacuation system. These vented tanks are only used properly when behind a belt driven vacuum pump where they trap and collect oil and water and the other contaminates the vacuum pump removes before they can settle and mix with the oil. And the oil filter onluy traps down to 15 microns in particulate size and most soot and carbon and other debris measures between 2-4 microns in size.
There is so much misinformation on these forums it just shocks me and I think many have transferred the breatherd cans to use as PCV catchcans not understanding all the critical factors involved.
Then we come to ring flutter (Google search to read on it) caused by allowing pressure to first build and then seek a path to equalize. This causes instability in the rings, poor seal, and wear to not only the ring edges, but the ring lands and divots in the cylinder walls over time (not to mention lost power from poor seal).
So, on to the OP. There is no way to get your engine to live more than a fraction of the time it will with proper evacuation using a breather set-up like you are showing.
The other thing you want to verify is that the katech covers have good full baffles underneath them. If not, the rocker arms throw oil right up into the AN fittings on the valve covers.
What you want to do is pretty much start from scratch. The height of the connections has no affect on how a proper system works. Is this a NA engine? Appears so, but need to know for sure.
The dry sump tank should always be inline with the clean, or "fresh" incoming air. I don't see a MAF sensor present, so I assume you are speed density tuned? Here is what you need. The passenger side of your engine is the "clean side". You will want filtered fresh air entering the clean air inlet of the sump tank from either the c main CAI intake air tube (post MAF flow), or from the end of cone air filter if FI. You can use that small billet can in-line between the air incoming and the sump tank. Then, use the new Elite Engineering E2-Ultra air/oil separator, or the Colorado Speed Monster can. Both come with one way billet positive closing low cracking check valves. You will go from the rear of the drivers side valve cover (as long as they have full baffles under the bungs) and "T" this to the valley cover. Then from the T, run that to the center fitting on the main separator unit. One outlet from the main unit with checkvalve flowing AWAY from the can to the intaek vacuum barb on the passenger side of the FAST snout. This provides constant evacuation flow when in non boost (FI) or any time you are not accelerating for NA. When you accelerate, the reversion pulses will cancel any vacuum in the intake manifold so the primary valve will detect this and close. The secondary outlet valve will then detect suction from the secondary suction source, and that is either at the coupler that attaches your TB to the main Intake air tube, or if FI (centri or turbo) right at the inlet. Add a barb directly to the coupler that attaches the head unit to the intake tube leading to the air filter. You will find a good amount of suction/vacuum present right at the inlet, but NOT out toward the filter as the dispersion of the filter will negate it.
So, you now have a system that no matter what is always pulling vacuum/suction on the crankcase, removes all the suspended damaging combustion byproducts before they can settle (these enter as blow-by), and all is flushed out and into the main separator where all oil and other damaging compounds are trapped (far more than oil like most ineffective cans catch), and only clean air enters the intake air charge for a air/fuel only make-up in the combustion chamber and long engine life.
I am headed away until tomorrow before I am back here, but Joe really seems to understand all of this (rare now days) so hopefully he can fill in until I am back online tomorrow.
And OP. ask any questions you may have on any of this. I am happy to send you all the technical data on all of this as the PCV system is probably the most misunderstood on todays cars and light trucks, and there is no possible way to make a vented or breathered system take care of an engine unless oil is changed after every outing, and then you still have the ring flutter and other issues allowing pressure to first build and then vent.
This is what I have as of now. Pick it apart man, I really appreciate the input. If it's all jacked up, so be it, I just want it right.
Good sketch! Yup, all evacuation has been defeated in how your run so what your seeing is pressure relieving out the breather and that is only bring a small fraction of the damaging compounds out.
Excellent Joe, I am pretty new here, but have worked in the industry designing PCV and crankcase evacuation systems, last was for GM a few years before the new LT1 and LT4 engines. So many factors not considered and those just venting are guaranteeing a short life for the engine for many reasons, mainly the damaging contaminates entering the crankcase being:
Water
Sulfuric acid
Un-burnt fuel
abrasive soot and carbon particles
and more.
The acid attacks the bearing and journal surfaces, and the soot and carbon are responsible for over 70% of all internal engine wear...and that is WITH a proper evacuation system. These vented tanks are only used properly when behind a belt driven vacuum pump where they trap and collect oil and water and the other contaminates the vacuum pump removes before they can settle and mix with the oil. And the oil filter onluy traps down to 15 microns in particulate size and most soot and carbon and other debris measures between 2-4 microns in size.
There is so much misinformation on these forums it just shocks me and I think many have transferred the breatherd cans to use as PCV catchcans not understanding all the critical factors involved.
Then we come to ring flutter (Google search to read on it) caused by allowing pressure to first build and then seek a path to equalize. This causes instability in the rings, poor seal, and wear to not only the ring edges, but the ring lands and divots in the cylinder walls over time (not to mention lost power from poor seal).
So, on to the OP. There is no way to get your engine to live more than a fraction of the time it will with proper evacuation using a breather set-up like you are showing.
The other thing you want to verify is that the katech covers have good full baffles underneath them. If not, the rocker arms throw oil right up into the AN fittings on the valve covers.
What you want to do is pretty much start from scratch. The height of the connections has no affect on how a proper system works. Is this a NA engine? Appears so, but need to know for sure.
The dry sump tank should always be inline with the clean, or "fresh" incoming air. I don't see a MAF sensor present, so I assume you are speed density tuned? Here is what you need. The passenger side of your engine is the "clean side". You will want filtered fresh air entering the clean air inlet of the sump tank from either the c main CAI intake air tube (post MAF flow), or from the end of cone air filter if FI. You can use that small billet can in-line between the air incoming and the sump tank. Then, use the new Elite Engineering E2-Ultra air/oil separator, or the Colorado Speed Monster can. Both come with one way billet positive closing low cracking check valves. You will go from the rear of the drivers side valve cover (as long as they have full baffles under the bungs) and "T" this to the valley cover. Then from the T, run that to the center fitting on the main separator unit. One outlet from the main unit with checkvalve flowing AWAY from the can to the intaek vacuum barb on the passenger side of the FAST snout. This provides constant evacuation flow when in non boost (FI) or any time you are not accelerating for NA. When you accelerate, the reversion pulses will cancel any vacuum in the intake manifold so the primary valve will detect this and close. The secondary outlet valve will then detect suction from the secondary suction source, and that is either at the coupler that attaches your TB to the main Intake air tube, or if FI (centri or turbo) right at the inlet. Add a barb directly to the coupler that attaches the head unit to the intake tube leading to the air filter. You will find a good amount of suction/vacuum present right at the inlet, but NOT out toward the filter as the dispersion of the filter will negate it.
So, you now have a system that no matter what is always pulling vacuum/suction on the crankcase, removes all the suspended damaging combustion byproducts before they can settle (these enter as blow-by), and all is flushed out and into the main separator where all oil and other damaging compounds are trapped (far more than oil like most ineffective cans catch), and only clean air enters the intake air charge for a air/fuel only make-up in the combustion chamber and long engine life.
I am headed away until tomorrow before I am back here, but Joe really seems to understand all of this (rare now days) so hopefully he can fill in until I am back online tomorrow.
And OP. ask any questions you may have on any of this. I am happy to send you all the technical data on all of this as the PCV system is probably the most misunderstood on todays cars and light trucks, and there is no possible way to make a vented or breathered system take care of an engine unless oil is changed after every outing, and then you still have the ring flutter and other issues allowing pressure to first build and then vent.
Dude, thanks so much for the input! Gonna rework what I got
coSPEED2, THANK YOU for this thoughtful response!!! Given your expertise in the subject, perhaps folks will listen to you more than they do me. I face the same issue in the harley world with these stupid breathers...luckily most guys don't drive those enough miles to matter.
I will refer to your post in the future as it succinctly expresses the concepts that I have been unable to and with your pedigree it means a lot more than coming from a CPA like me. LOL
Nopps, you did a nice job with the sketch.
Can you follow the two schedules I posted above to get your system into shape? I think you are pretty close - you want MAF metered clean air into the fresh air side of your dry sump and the catch can in the dirty side between the valley and the intake. Cap the breather port on your can, or get a non-vented can.
Keep us posted!
By the way, please confirm you don't have a blower on this car, that changes things.
coSPEED2, THANK YOU for this thoughtful response!!! Given your expertise in the subject, perhaps folks will listen to you more than they do me. I face the same issue in the harley world with these stupid breathers...luckily most guys don't drive those enough miles to matter.
I will refer to your post in the future as it succinctly expresses the concepts that I have been unable to and with your pedigree it means a lot more than coming from a CPA like me. LOL
Nopps, you did a nice job with the sketch.
Can you follow the two schedules I posted above to get your system into shape? I think you are pretty close - you want MAF metered clean air into the fresh air side of your dry sump and the catch can in the dirty side between the valley and the intake. Cap the breather port on your can, or get a non-vented can.
Keep us posted!
By the way, please confirm you don't have a blower on this car, that changes things.
No blower...its a built n/a engine. I am still mass airflow though, its just farther down the line...I have a tune that I have to get to next week, so I've got to get it right asap. Ive got enough hose left to pop a -10an line in between the intake tube and the port that the pos vent can used to connect to. That will pretty much make it reflect the ls7 drysump schematic that you posted. I do have a catch can between the valley and the manifold...its not valved though...think it will suffice long enough to get a tune? I could always change to one of the ones coSPEED2 mentioned after? ....here is a sketch of my action plan...and again, thank you both for the input. I merely bought this damn breather can, because the it was suggested in the ARE instructions that came with the tank. I'm glad I know to get rid of it now. It's been run this way, all of about a minute and thirty seconds.
And don't fret for a minute about running the engine with your old system. Guys do it every day for thousands of miles.
But I dare say you won't find a built engine with 79,000 miles on it like mine...or 179,000... as goSPEED2 posted, those systems aren't great for longevity.
I received a breather can and tried it for a short period of time - first of all, my AC smelled like like driving behind a 64 Nova with a road draft system (which it was, absent the road draft to draw out the contaminants). And my oil got black in 1000 miles. I did a lot of research to find out why and came up with what goSpeed2 posted. I gave that catch can away. Not to a good friend.
I'm an older guy now and I remember pulling apart engines before PCV was a law (1968 IIRC) and engines used to be filthy inside. Remember how roads used to have a black oil stripe down the middle from the road draft systems? Non-detergent oil had a lot to do with the dirty engines but so did the lack of a positive crankcase ventilation system. Modern engines are super clean inside due to better oil and proper PCV systems.
And don't fret for a minute about running the engine with your old system. Guys do it every day for thousands of miles.
But I dare say you won't find a built engine with 79,000 miles on it like mine...or 179,000... as goSPEED2 posted, those systems aren't great for longevity.
I received a breather can and tried it for a short period of time - first of all, my AC smelled like like driving behind a 64 Nova with a road draft system (which it was, absent the road draft to draw out the contaminants). And my oil got black in 1000 miles. I did a lot of research to find out why and came up with what goSpeed2 posted. I gave that catch can away. Not to a good friend.
I'm an older guy now and I remember pulling apart engines before PCV was a law (1968 IIRC) and engines used to be filthy inside. Remember how roads used to have a black oil stripe down the middle from the road draft systems? Non-detergent oil had a lot to do with the dirty engines but so did the lack of a positive crankcase ventilation system. Modern engines are super clean inside due to better oil and proper PCV systems.
Just the way you sketched it will provide MAF metered incoming air so should be fine for tune except that small can is allowing 70-80% of the oil to still pass through so your still going to have less energy released per explosive event as you want nothing but air/fuel in the combustion chamber, so that oil passing through the small billet can (which is fine on the cleanside inline) will cause excess detonation under load (any oil reduces usable octane and also disrupts the flame front, burn pattern, and thus less power produced as well as the knock sensors will command the PCM to pull timing, etc.) So, you still have time to get a "monster" separator from ColoradoSPeed and install it in place of the small can, and then utilize the checkvalves and secondary evacuation source. And as this will provide evacuation at all engine operating levels, no pressure should build. And, using both valve covers for incoming cleanside air, and evacuating the foul vapors out the valley, then you are still getting great cross flow flushing and evacuation unless the valley barb fixed orifice is to restrictive. 1/8: is a good size to drill it to. If it is too restrictive then you may need to move and T to drivers side valve cover and valley, and only have cleanside entering the passenger side valve cover. Again, take a few minutes to remove valve covers and confirm a good full baffle. Far to often I see nice added clearance valve covers w/no internal baffle.
Also, what is the sump tank capacity? If you can, run app 1/2 qt lower to prevent windage.
Now to add to Joe's great post's, back pre mid 1960's we only had draft tubes, and they released pressure, but provided no true evacuation and flushing as today's systems do. Any tank with breathers, or worse, open hoses hanging down near the ground, defeats all evacuation. AT least yours was evacuating at idle and deceleration as is. So it amazes me some revert back to that technology when attempting to deal with crankcase pressure and oil ingestion issues. The PCV system was mandated for emissions only at the time, and it was only by chance engineers discovered the engines that had to be rebuilt at 40-50-60k miles were now going 100-150k miles before excessive wear forced a rebuild. In studying oil samples they found the dirt and contaminate levels were drastically reduced when utilizing a PCV system, and further they discovered that much of the engine wear was caused by the main contaminants listed above, and the PCV system was evacuating/removing these as soon as they entered and were still in a suspended state. That is why engines wore out so early back before PCV systems (and of course much better oils and manufacturing processes as well). So if you defeat these functions that keep your engine clean and alive, you are taking these awesome advanced technology engines and subjecting them to the technology of pre 1960's. The PCV system does far more than help reduce emissions, it also removes the damaging compounds constantly entering the crankcase as blow-by.
Here is a good (and one of the few out there as it has been at least 2 generations since the PCV system was properly taught in tech training...there is almost no current training to techs) training video on the basics of the PCV system, and to go further, NO good ever comes from oil ingestion via the intake air charge.
Watch this several times all wanting to learn more:
Do OP, you can still use much of what you have and I would swap that small billet unit for one of the few that actually do trap all the oil like I mentioned (most catch far less than 50%. 10-30% is the average).
Just the way you sketched it will provide MAF metered incoming air so should be fine for tune except that small can is allowing 70-80% of the oil to still pass through so your still going to have less energy released per explosive event as you want nothing but air/fuel in the combustion chamber, so that oil passing through the small billet can (which is fine on the cleanside inline) will cause excess detonation under load (any oil reduces usable octane and also disrupts the flame front, burn pattern, and thus less power produced as well as the knock sensors will command the PCM to pull timing, etc.) So, you still have time to get a "monster" separator from ColoradoSPeed and install it in place of the small can, and then utilize the checkvalves and secondary evacuation source. And as this will provide evacuation at all engine operating levels, no pressure should build. And, using both valve covers for incoming cleanside air, and evacuating the foul vapors out the valley, then you are still getting great cross flow flushing and evacuation unless the valley barb fixed orifice is to restrictive. 1/8: is a good size to drill it to. If it is too restrictive then you may need to move and T to drivers side valve cover and valley, and only have cleanside entering the passenger side valve cover. Again, take a few minutes to remove valve covers and confirm a good full baffle. Far to often I see nice added clearance valve covers w/no internal baffle.
Also, what is the sump tank capacity? If you can, run app 1/2 qt lower to prevent windage.
Now to add to Joe's great post's, back pre mid 1960's we only had draft tubes, and they released pressure, but provided no true evacuation and flushing as today's systems do. Any tank with breathers, or worse, open hoses hanging down near the ground, defeats all evacuation. AT least yours was evacuating at idle and deceleration as is. So it amazes me some revert back to that technology when attempting to deal with crankcase pressure and oil ingestion issues. The PCV system was mandated for emissions only at the time, and it was only by chance engineers discovered the engines that had to be rebuilt at 40-50-60k miles were now going 100-150k miles before excessive wear forced a rebuild. In studying oil samples they found the dirt and contaminate levels were drastically reduced when utilizing a PCV system, and further they discovered that much of the engine wear was caused by the main contaminants listed above, and the PCV system was evacuating/removing these as soon as they entered and were still in a suspended state. That is why engines wore out so early back before PCV systems (and of course much better oils and manufacturing processes as well). So if you defeat these functions that keep your engine clean and alive, you are taking these awesome advanced technology engines and subjecting them to the technology of pre 1960's. The PCV system does far more than help reduce emissions, it also removes the damaging compounds constantly entering the crankcase as blow-by.
Here is a good (and one of the few out there as it has been at least 2 generations since the PCV system was properly taught in tech training...there is almost no current training to techs) training video on the basics of the PCV system, and to go further, NO good ever comes from oil ingestion via the intake air charge.
Watch this several times all wanting to learn more:
Do OP, you can still use much of what you have and I would swap that small billet unit for one of the few that actually do trap all the oil like I mentioned (most catch far less than 50%. 10-30% is the average).
My total system capacity sits about 10.5 quarts....agreed, running 10 should be fine. And it's funny you bring up tech training....from where your sitting you'll probably find this hard to believe, but I'm a master for Jaguar, and can definitely attest for for it not being taught that way. Its taught as an emissions system, much like secondary air injection, exhaust gas recirculation, and evaportitve fuel emissions systems. I'm really glad I got to speak with you, as I've never really thought of it this way before. Like Joe said, engines are much cleaner inside these days, and I'm a pretty young guy and haven't seen many of those older systems. I do mostly engine and transmission work, and if it's an engine job, its usually for either a noise, timing chain issue, driver overheating it, or something broken...thanks again, you have really made a difference in my build. I could have easily followed ARE's instructions, thought nothing of it, and been screwed down the road.
My total system capacity sits about 10.5 quarts....agreed, running 10 should be fine. And it's funny you bring up tech training....from where your sitting you'll probably find this hard to believe, but I'm a master for Jaguar, and can definitely attest for for it not being taught that way. Its taught as an emissions system, much like secondary air injection, exhaust gas recirculation, and evaportitve fuel emissions systems. I'm really glad I got to speak with you, as I've never really thought of it this way before. Like Joe said, engines are much cleaner inside these days, and I'm a pretty young guy and haven't seen many of those older systems. I do mostly engine and transmission work, and if it's an engine job, its usually for either a noise, timing chain issue, driver overheating it, or something broken...thanks again, you have really made a difference in my build. I could have easily followed ARE's instructions, thought nothing of it, and been screwed down the road.
Your in good hands.
Also good to have confirmation from a "younger" tech. I have worked in the industry for decades and the migration has been toward diagnostics and parts swapping in the least amount of time possible per flat rate compensation and warranty reimbursement.
As your with Jaguar, the new GDI engines and the intake coking are where our focus as a R&D firm have been since 2008 and as you have probably seen, no automaker is immune.
Joe, yes, PM me anytime to have more in-depth discussions. Were both from the same era it appears, but I know nothing about accounting and such! (and never will). I come from a different perspective than most shops, etc. working on the "inside" of the automotive industry so much of what I share is not taught OR even understood by most today. Lot's of great tuner shops putting out quality builds but not understanding all that is involved on this subject. Most think emissions and pressure only. As a member of SAE, we have member discussions on the technical side of this and more on a regular basis, and I am more than happy to share. Especially with the new GDI engines (GM has gone all GDI for 2016 in all gasoline cars and light trucks as most have to meet CAFE fuel economy standards and tighter emissions requirements) and the issues all of them face.
09-14-2015, 06:16 PM
Smoke from drysump tank breather
Thought I was the only one on here who believes in the value of a properly functioning PCV system.
