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C6 EBCM replacement, save $1500, spend $150-250 and about 2 hours.
C6 EBCM swap.
Scan it with something that will grab the EBCM codes, I'm thankful to have a world class tech next door here at ARH. (Thanks Brad)
05-08 cars use the same EBCM from what I have found. If you buy one used they do not require Tech2 programming.
Leave the hydro side of the box alone/in place in the car.
Remove the air box/snorkel and radiator top cover, this will allow you to push the radiator slightly forward if needed. I'm not sure if it's 100% needed, but it was a quick task and I'm often cleaning
access the x2 torx screws from the driver's side on top. the x2 torx screws from the bottom. You can do this with a small 1/4" drive ratchet, very little torque on these.
The EBCM box will slide off the hydro side towards the driver's side of the car, I left the radiator/fans/hoses in place. I did pull the LHS sway bar mount to allow the EBCM box to pass through the bottom of the car.
I didn't snap any pics, if you have questions post up and I'll help out.
Scan it with something that will grab the EBCM codes, I'm thankful to have a world class tech next door here at ARH. (Thanks Brad)
05-08 cars use the same EBCM from what I have found. If you buy one used they do not require Tech2 programming.
Leave the hydro side of the box alone/in place in the car.
Remove the air box/snorkel and radiator top cover, this will allow you to push the radiator slightly forward if needed. I'm not sure if it's 100% needed, but it was a quick task and I'm often cleaning
access the x2 torx screws from the driver's side on top. the x2 torx screws from the bottom. You can do this with a small 1/4" drive ratchet, very little torque on these.
The EBCM box will slide off the hydro side towards the driver's side of the car, I left the radiator/fans/hoses in place. I did pull the LHS sway bar mount to allow the EBCM box to pass through the bottom of the car.
I didn't snap any pics, if you have questions post up and I'll help out.
If you could take a few pics that would be great, I have an 07 that is throwing C0121 and C0899. I can pick up a used EBCM for pretty cheap. Are you saying that you can remove the electronics without removing any of the brake lines? And since the ebcm is off an 07, i shouldn't need to flash anything?
If you could take a few pics that would be great, I have an 07 that is throwing C0121 and C0899. I can pick up a used EBCM for pretty cheap. Are you saying that you can remove the electronics without removing any of the brake lines? And since the ebcm is off an 07, i shouldn't need to flash anything?
Thank you,
-t
Former vendor who has not used that forum User ID since last November.
Scan it with something that will grab the EBCM codes, I'm thankful to have a world class tech next door here at ARH. (Thanks Brad)
05-08 cars use the same EBCM from what I have found. If you buy one used they do not require Tech2 programming.
Leave the hydro side of the box alone/in place in the car.
Remove the air box/snorkel and radiator top cover, this will allow you to push the radiator slightly forward if needed. I'm not sure if it's 100% needed, but it was a quick task and I'm often cleaning
access the x2 torx screws from the driver's side on top. the x2 torx screws from the bottom. You can do this with a small 1/4" drive ratchet, very little torque on these.
The EBCM box will slide off the hydro side towards the driver's side of the car, I left the radiator/fans/hoses in place. I did pull the LHS sway bar mount to allow the EBCM box to pass through the bottom of the car.
I didn't snap any pics, if you have questions post up and I'll help out.
Hi, I got stuck in the process of trying to get the bottom right torx screw out. (The one the is closest to the ground and firewall) At the same time, I also can't get the black clip for the connector that attaches to the front of the EBCM.
Any help?? I can't get the clip to release at all.
Leave the hydro side of the box alone/in place in the car.
So, is it typically the module side of the EBCM that goes bad?
We have a base model '06 C6 that was having sporadic brake issues. After exhausting my diagnostic capabilities at home, I brought it to the Chevy dealer to be diagnosed. They told me my EBCM is bad. We decided to have it rebuilt, so the dealer sent the EBCM to the company to be rebuilt, and that company is telling us (per the dealer) that the EBCM is shooting an "end of life" code, so to speak.
The dealer is giving me two options. A) Pay $1k for a rebuilt EBCM and have the dealer install and program it. B) Buy a used one and see if it can be rebuilt.
I'm leaning toward finding my own used working EBCM from a reliable source and either installing it or having them do it.
I'm skeptical of dealers. I'm researching on my own while trying to figure if they're giving me the real scoop.
Any suggestions on the best step to take? Thank you in advance.
So, is it typically the module side of the EBCM that goes bad?
We have a base model '06 C6 that was having sporadic brake issues. After exhausting my diagnostic capabilities at home, I brought it to the Chevy dealer to be diagnosed. They told me my EBCM is bad. We decided to have it rebuilt, so the dealer sent the EBCM to the company to be rebuilt, and that company is telling us (per the dealer) that the EBCM is shooting an "end of life" code, so to speak.
The dealer is giving me two options. A) Pay $1k for a rebuilt EBCM and have the dealer install and program it. B) Buy a used one and see if it can be rebuilt.
I'm leaning toward finding my own used working EBCM from a reliable source and either installing it or having them do it.
I'm skeptical of dealers. I'm researching on my own while trying to figure if they're giving me the real scoop.
Any suggestions on the best step to take? Thank you in advance.
I have a '08 and was getting the ABS, Traction Control and Stabilitrak messages. After thorough inspection by my mechanic, and several sensor replacements, we found it could only be the EBCM. Since the part is not made nor replacement part available, I looked at sending it out for rebuild myself, but found that rebuilding the ECBM for a C6 is not possible, or not common. It is as sealed component, unlike the one off the C5 that you can find YouTube videos on rebuilding. I even spoke to ABFIXER just to make sure. So, I did the next best thing and went to eBay. I found a used one off of a 08 Z06, I think I paid < $300 for it. My mechanic swapped them out and everything worked. FYI, you cannot drive a C6 without an EBCM installed, even a broken one. No reprogramming needed, since it was already installed/programmed at one time. I think out the door with about 8 hours of labor for diagnostics and swap out, I had around $1200 into this. I also kept the old part in case there is a way to rebuild it.
Also, I traced the issue with my EBCM to a voltage surge. I have extremely low miles on my vette (< 5,000), so it is hooked to a Battery Tender. We had a really bad storm and lightning stuck something outside that caused our power to go out and several breakers to flip. Since then I put a disconnect on the battery, so it can stay on the charger and not the whole system. Otherwise, I just unplug it when a bad storm is approaching.
I have a '08 and was getting the ABS, Traction Control and Stabilitrak messages. After thorough inspection by my mechanic, and several sensor replacements, we found it could only be the EBCM. Since the part is not made nor replacement part available, I looked at sending it out for rebuild myself, but found that rebuilding the ECBM for a C6 is not possible, or not common. It is as sealed component, unlike the one off the C5 that you can find YouTube videos on rebuilding. I even spoke to ABFIXER just to make sure. So, I did the next best thing and went to eBay. I found a used one off of a 08 Z06, I think I paid < $300 for it. My mechanic swapped them out and everything worked. FYI, you cannot drive a C6 without an EBCM installed, even a broken one. No reprogramming needed, since it was already installed/programmed at one time. I think out the door with about 8 hours of labor for diagnostics and swap out, I had around $1200 into this. I also kept the old part in case there is a way to rebuild it.
Also, I traced the issue with my EBCM to a voltage surge. I have extremely low miles on my vette (< 5,000), so it is hooked to a Battery Tender. We had a really bad storm and lightning stuck something outside that caused our power to go out and several breakers to flip. Since then I put a disconnect on the battery, so it can stay on the charger and not the whole system. Otherwise, I just unplug it when a bad storm is approaching.
Good info. Thanks for the feedback.
I don't know if a particular mishap (like a electrical spike) could have caused our issue. Dealer is telling me my traction control warning in the DIC is due to the EBCM side of the unit and my brake pedal issue is due to the BMPV side of the unit. Pretty sure they told me earlier that a steering position sensor was responsible for the traction control light. Hmmm.
I'm taking the car back and sitting tight for a bit. Funds are tight right now and I'm going to reevaluate. I may pick up an EBCM/BPMP assembly, install it myself, and have a tech II bleed done on it and see where we're at. I can do that a lot cheaper than have the dealer finish the entire job.
Truth is, most of the time that the EBCM has problems, it just a cold solder joint on the board that needs to be re-soldered; if not just a bad connection at the EBCM connector isntead. Hell most off the time, it just a mater of pulling the connector to clean it and the controller pins without pulling the controller that solves the problem isntead.
So pulling the controller off the body is not hard, the body valves get a quick clean up if needed, the controller board gets pulled out of the causing to find the cold solder joint problem to be re solder, and the solenoid for the valves on the controller board get a quick clean up and Silicone spray in them and the valve stems so they don't corrode up quickly again when the controller is bolted back on. Also, like to add a touch of RTV to the seal between the body and controller so water is not fast to seep back in again.
[QUOTE=Dano523;1597830530]Truth is, most of the time that the EBCM has problems, it just a cold solder joint on the board that needs to be re-soldered; if not just a bad connection at the EBCM connector isntead. Hell most off the time, it just a mater of pulling the connector to clean it and the controller pins without pulling the controller that solves the problem isntead.
So pulling the controller off the body is not hard, the body valves get a quick clean up if needed, the controller board gets pulled out of the causing to find the cold solder joint problem to be re solder, and the solenoid for the valves on the controller board get a quick clean up and Silicone spray in them and the valve stems so they don't corrode up quickly again when the controller is bolted back on. Also, like to add a touch of RTV to the seal between the body and controller so water is not fast to seep back in again.
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/QUOTE]
Thanks Dano523, and you are correct on your diagnosis and resolve for C5 models, but from the info that I have gathered including a conversation with ABFIXER, the EBCM for the C6 cannot be repaired (at least as of the beginning of the year) due to it's seal. If I get a chance, I saved my old one (just in case) and will post pics to see what I am talking about. If there is a way to repair the C6 module, please post, or direct us to more info on that. Can you get replacement components if a solenoid or something else on the board is bad?
BAD FUN, as for replacing both sides, I failed to mention that I only replaced the electronic control side. I did not touch the mechanical side. All my homework indicated that it was 99% electrical issues and you will definitely run into threading issues replacing the lines and most likely introduce air to the system. If you are able to do this yourself, I would ONLY replace the electrical side first. The used part that I purchased did have both components, so if the mechanical side goes bad, I will have a part for that. There was a great YouTube video someone did on replacing the entire module:
My above photos' are a C6 EBCM, and as you can see, the factory rubber seal is not the best from the start. Its the reason that I mention to add a touch more RTV to the existing seal so it seals correctly when you put it back on, or just pull the old sealant out of the groove, and add another strip of RTV in the channel when you put the controller back on.
Once you have the controller off the body, then you can remove the board from the body case. At this point, you can check all the solder joints, and 99% of the time, its a cold solder joints that are the problem, short of a code for a slow valve, which is due to the corrsion on the valve stem isntead. If you run into an actual part that you have to replace on the board like the relay, then most of the time you can get what you need from mouser electronics.
My above photos' are a C6 EBCM, and as you can see, the factory rubber seal is not the best from the start. Its the reason that I mention to add a touch more RTV to the existing seal so it seals correctly when you put it back on, or just pull the old sealant out of the groove, and add another strip of RTV in the channel when you put the controller back on.
Once you have the controller off the body, then you can remove the board from the body case. At this point, you can check all the solder joints, and 99% of the time, its a cold solder joints that are the problem, short of a code for a slow valve, which is due to the corrsion on the valve stem isntead. If you run into an actual part that you have to replace on the board like the relay, then most of the time you can get what you need from mouser electronics.
Hey Dano523, this is great news! I knew it was just a matter of time until someone had a post on fixing the C6 EBCM, that's why I did not throw the part away. Since my replacement is working and I know we did not have any codes for valves, I will have to get this opened up and see what's going on in there. I was through all the postings and repairs, but everything was directed to C5 and looked much easier to take apart. I will throw up an update once I mess with it, but I don't think it will be anytime soon.
Also, for anyone wanting to repair theirs, your c6 will not run without a module connected, even if it is throwing codes, it needs to be connected. I originally thought that I would have my mechanic take the damaged module off and button up the work, drive the car back to my cozy garage, and send the part out for repair. That all fell apart when he told me that the car would not run without the module in place. So, if you plan on a repair route, consider my above experience.
06-15-2016, 06:14 PM
C6 EBCM replacement, save $1500, spend $150-250 and about 2 hours.
