C6 Clutch Master Cylinder WOES
09-08-2017, 12:18 PM
#21
Hobievette2001
[siz[/size]
where having the assist spring in play (be it the smaller coil one out of the c5), is it hold the clutch pedal tight up against the top clutch pedal button, and prevents the cruse control from kicking out if you hit a small bump to dance the clutch pedal without spring off the button instead,
so the assist spring does two thing, with the most importation one being that is holds the pedal all the way against the top switch.
The second, it a good or bad thing, depending on how you look at it. When the spring cams over when the pedal about half way down, it is helping you to get the pedal to the floor and hold it there instead. The downside to this, is it more pressure for the fluid returning to the master cylinder that has to push the clutch pedal up off the floor to over comes the spring tension until it gets about half way up isntead.
So if you not a granny that need the help to hold the clutch pedal to the floor, there there is no need for a assist spring to help you get and hold the pedal down, but instead just a linear return spring to hold the pedal all the way up against the top switch isntead.
So we yank on the on play of these out (c6 assist spring on the left, smaller c5 assist spring on the right),
and install a clutch return spring like this isntead.
so the assist spring does two thing, with the most importation one being that is holds the pedal all the way against the top switch.
The second, it a good or bad thing, depending on how you look at it. When the spring cams over when the pedal about half way down, it is helping you to get the pedal to the floor and hold it there instead. The downside to this, is it more pressure for the fluid returning to the master cylinder that has to push the clutch pedal up off the floor to over comes the spring tension until it gets about half way up isntead.
So if you not a granny that need the help to hold the clutch pedal to the floor, there there is no need for a assist spring to help you get and hold the pedal down, but instead just a linear return spring to hold the pedal all the way up against the top switch isntead.
So we yank on the on play of these out (c6 assist spring on the left, smaller c5 assist spring on the right),
and install a clutch return spring like this isntead.
09-09-2017, 01:34 PM
#23
So its possible for high RPM shifts that end up burning clutch pads to be from lack of fluid to the slave cylinder?? Removing the spring helps with this problem??
So, it may not be an over powering issue but more of a fluid concern....
Obviously, if your making 700 wheel the stock clutch is going to burn no matter once... but this is also a contributing problem??
So, it may not be an over powering issue but more of a fluid concern....
Obviously, if your making 700 wheel the stock clutch is going to burn no matter once... but this is also a contributing problem??
01-03-2018, 09:29 AM
#24
If I install an MGW shifter on my 2013 ZR1 will the dealer still recognize the slave master cylinder as warranty if it went bad? I'm asking because the previous owner already had it done at around 3K miles. car has 4,300 miles so far.
01-03-2018, 05:44 PM
#25
But just a heads up on your ZR1, GM requires the tech to have not only the needed training, but the needed extra tools for them to work in the ZR1 models. So before you take your ZR1 to a dealer, confirm that they are certified to work on the ZR1 in the first place (have a tech with the cert and the dealer did buy the needed tools as well).
If you can't get a straight answer from the dealership, call up GM corp and they will tell you if the dealer is certified to work on the ZR1, or the closest dealer that is certified to work on the car in the first place.
Hence there a lot of dealer that can work on most vets, but not a lot of dealers that are GM certified to work on the ZR1 instead (bought the needed tools and one of there techs trained to work with the tool set on the ZR1 instead).
To add, it not just the ZR1 that falls into category, but the GM electric model cars like the volt as well. Hence rarer models that some dealers can't justify the cost of the tool sets and tech training to warrant them to become GM certified repair shops for such, since they will not service enough to recoup the costs instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 01-03-2018 at 05:48 PM.
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simnova6 (01-03-2018)
01-04-2018, 02:44 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
Hope this helps, it's from 2016 post of mine. My car is a 2007 Z06.
"Got the master cylinder replaced. While the pedal was out of the car, I
fabricated a stop using a carriage bolt. Now the pedal just engages the safety switch by about 1/8". With the engagement point where I want it,
I only had to adjust the upper switch a small amount.
I was surprised that the stock MC did not contain a spring. The fluid must be forced back by the spring in the slave cylinder. The stroke on the stock MC is 1.25" and the Tilton is 1.1. Comparing the 3/4" bore vs the Tilton's 7/8", the new MC needs .19" less stroke to move the same amount of fluid. Also determined that a stop on the push rod of the stock MC is what prevents the pedal from fully contacting the safety switch.
Thanks for all the posts on this subject, they were very helpful."
"Got the master cylinder replaced. While the pedal was out of the car, I
fabricated a stop using a carriage bolt. Now the pedal just engages the safety switch by about 1/8". With the engagement point where I want it,
I only had to adjust the upper switch a small amount.
I was surprised that the stock MC did not contain a spring. The fluid must be forced back by the spring in the slave cylinder. The stroke on the stock MC is 1.25" and the Tilton is 1.1. Comparing the 3/4" bore vs the Tilton's 7/8", the new MC needs .19" less stroke to move the same amount of fluid. Also determined that a stop on the push rod of the stock MC is what prevents the pedal from fully contacting the safety switch.
Thanks for all the posts on this subject, they were very helpful."