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D3PE fan users

Old 08-14-2016, 12:49 PM
  #21  
badass68
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Originally Posted by Hallett
Had mine installed it's doing the same thing I'm not happy with there reply when I contacted them they stated I might need to upgrade the alternator. Definitely there is a problem.
Yep. They definitely shouldn't be using a SSR. The correct way to do it is a motor controller which controls voltage like the oem c6 and ford module.
Old 08-15-2016, 07:52 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by badass68
Yep. They definitely shouldn't be using a SSR. The correct way to do it is a motor controller which controls voltage like the oem c6 and ford module.
I will give them another opertuity to make it right this is not expectable I didn't buy the fan to have to replace the controller.
Old 08-15-2016, 12:39 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by badass68
Yep. They definitely shouldn't be using a SSR. The correct way to do it is a motor controller which controls voltage like the oem c6 and ford module.
Using our SSR is the correct way to control it (directly reads the PWM signal from the factory ecu (same frequency) and is rated at 100amps to handle both fans together no matter the fan speed, if you want the fans to come on slower than you simply change the fan speed control in the ecu to your liking.

As for the power issue, if your alternator is marginal or you have other electrical items in the car pulling from the alternator, then yes it might be needed to go with a higher amperage alternator. I would test to see what voltage your alternator is actually putting out and not rely on the gauge for verification. As long as the car is charging then there is no issue, the voltage can bounce around on the gauge. There is no downfall for this, even if the voltage jumps some at the ecu, this is why there is voltage offset tables which compensate for this sort of thing.

We have sold over 100 units all over the world, more than 60% have went direct to performance shops for their own builds which out of all of them, no one has changed anything wiring/controller wise...

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Last edited by D3PE; 08-15-2016 at 12:39 PM.
Old 08-15-2016, 12:55 PM
  #24  
badass68
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Originally Posted by D3PE
Using our SSR is the correct way to control it (directly reads the PWM signal from the factory ecu (same frequency) and is rated at 100amps to handle both fans together no matter the fan speed, if you want the fans to come on slower than you simply change the fan speed control in the ecu to your liking.

As for the power issue, if your alternator is marginal or you have other electrical items in the car pulling from the alternator, then yes it might be needed to go with a higher amperage alternator. I would test to see what voltage your alternator is actually putting out and not rely on the gauge for verification. As long as the car is charging then there is no issue, the voltage can bounce around on the gauge. There is no downfall for this, even if the voltage jumps some at the ecu, this is why there is voltage offset tables which compensate for this sort of thing.

We have sold over 100 units all over the world, more than 60% have went direct to performance shops for their own builds which out of all of them, no one has changed anything wiring/controller wise...

Dave
Owner/Engineering
Read post number #3. Voltage is stable at alt. and battery. It's the voltage spikes entering the ECU causing the gauge to misread.
Old 08-15-2016, 01:03 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by badass68
Read post number #3. Voltage is stable at alt. and battery. It's the voltage spikes entering the ECU causing the gauge to misread.

I know, this is general info for everyone
Originally Posted by D3PE
As long as the car is charging then there is no issue, the voltage can bounce around on the gauge. There is no downfall for this, even if the voltage jumps some at the ecu, this is why there is voltage offset tables which compensate for this sort of thing.


Dave
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Old 08-30-2016, 01:16 PM
  #26  
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From an EE perspective, would it not be wise to include a flyback diode to eliminate voltage spikes when shutting off the fans (or slowing them down?) Perhaps with a power-rated resistor in series so that the diode isn't dissipating all the heat on its own.

Perhaps this is already implemented but if not it would be quite cheap to do so (a couple cents per fan kit) and good protection for customer vehicles.

Sound installation of normal electromagnetic relays calls for a flyback diode to protect the ECU from inductive spikes whenever the relay is opened; Although an SSR does not have this exact issue, I would imagine that the spikes from two massive fan motors are a fair bit larger thus it would be in our best interest to isolate them from the vehicle electronics as much as possible by providing an alternate path for dissipation of these spikes.


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