mazzerman

Hi Guys
As a newish owner to the 2005 vette, what is the best mileage to change out the belts tensioners and pulleys?
I didnt get and service history with the car so dont know when it was done if at all.
Any info gratefully received.

Paratrooper307

When they need it-time and mileage requirements can vary significantly. For the belts, look for cracking, dry rot and fraying. For tensioners, look for excessive wobbling or failure to maintain adequate tension.

schizcat

With no service history, etc., I would start by looking to see how much mileage is on the car. Like noted above, inspect belts for cracks. The tensioners and pulleys you will replace when bearings start to squeal or wobble...as noted above (usually never).

Kenny94945

So many variables.
Are there failure symptoms?

Since you have an '05 time is not on your side with rubber products so changing the belt now could offer another long period of trouble free miles.

The tensioners and pullies....to many variables.
If I had to give a number 100K mileage....just a guess...I'd inspect and change when you start to notice failure.
And... when you change the belt, don't forget to clean and or wire brush the pulley grooves.

Have fun with your car's mechanical need.

mazzerman

Thanks guys.
Its at 110k so probably need to at least change the belts and inspect the pulley's, there are no noises from the pulley's but will check for wobble as well.

USAF

2005?
No service history?

Change almost every fluid

USAF

Steve Haefner

I might be a little extreme here, but I go nuts when I get a new to me car and I never buy new. Once in the 80's I was stuck on a less traveled road for 4 hours before some drove by. (yeah yeah cell phones, but still this sticks with me) and frankly want my family to be safe.

Just picked up a 2007 Suburban and did the following right away, no hesitation.

1. Replaced battery (was OEM)
2. Checked alternator , was good
3. Oil and Filter Change
4. Replaced Rotors, Pads, Calipers
5. Flushed Brakes
6. Flush Power Steering
7. Flushed Radiator
8. Checked Hubs while there ( replaced fronts)
9. Checked suspension, air ride, etc for proper operation
10. Inspected all Suspension bushings, etc
11. Replaced Axle seal on front drivers side (leaking)
12. Changed Transfer case fluid
13. Changed axle fluid
14. Flushed Transmission
15. Closely inspected hoses (replaced lower radiator)
16. Check all hard lines (repaired the lower oil cooler line (removed the rubber hose and crimp was leaking) did AN fittings and stainless steel line
17. and finally Replaced Serpentine Belts, didn't care if they looked good or not

BlindSpot

On the serpentine belt (main one), the quickest visual inspection is to view the stretch marks. If you're stretched close to the LO mark then the tensioner pulley spring is running out of range too. I've highlighted the high/low marks and the indicator mark on the tensioner pulley. This is first, then also look for the other visuals mentioned above.

mazzerman

Yeah did that as soon as i got it 4 months ago.
Changed oil and filter (Mobil 1)
Changed gearbox oil and Diff oil
Changed spark plugs with OEM AC delco's
i'v got a nochy shifter with can of marbles which i believe is quite common but will be putting in an MGW soon.
Also put a fuel addative (STP) in when i go it and went for a 500 mile drive to clear out the fuel system.

Unreal

Belt and tensioner are so easy and stupid cheap if you don't know, and they look old, might as well do them.

WhoIsPat

Side note, if your 2005 is a manual, you'll want to flush the hydraulic clutch fluid as well, it is often overlooked and turns very nasty very quickly due to a sub-optimal slave cylinder design. The bleeder is near impossible to reach, so the best approach is the "Ranger" method.

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

To get my 2006 clean I had to do this over a period of weeks, emptying and refilling the clutch master cylinder reservoir every 2-3 days. I found that "pumping" the clutch in the garage did almost nothing to circulate the fluid, but somehow even a short drive would result in the fresh fluid in the reservoir being displaced by filthy black fluid. I use Wagner DOT 5.1 and now replace the fluid in the reservoir at least every oil change, regardless of how it looks.

Flushing the brake fluid is also important to protect the sensitive components of the ABS and active handling system, I used a MityVac MV8000 to empty the reservoir and to pull fluid from the bleeders at each wheel, makes it a lot easier than having a helper operate the pedal.

Other often overlooked fluids with finite service life include Dex-cool, and power steering fluid.