How to remove ls3 fuel rails?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
How to remove ls3 fuel rails?
I asked this question in the general section but did not get any satisfactory answers. I have a painted intake cover and fuel rail covers I want to install. Any one got detailed instructions or a video on the fuel rail removal/reinstall? Never done it and don't want to screw anything up. Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Melting Slicks
It is very simple.
Clean any dirt leaves etc around the rail/injector area first.
Make sure the car is off and has cooled down.
Unplug the injectors
Unsrew the black cap on the fuel rail.
Use a small tool to depress the pin in the hole and release the pressure to the rail. (Gas will come out)
You likely will not need to decouple the rails from the car so just leave it attached to the supply line.
Remove all 4 bolts that hold the rail down to the manifold.
Grab on both sides and pull up.
You may or may not have injectors come with the rail. That's okay just do not get dirt in them.
To go back on just do everything in reverse. The orings may require some grease to slide back in.
***** DO NOT start the car before you check for leaks. Power the car on so the fuel pump comes up. You can use the schrader valve pin depress method to expell any air for the inspection. You are just making sure that you do not have a gasoline leak before actually starting the car.
Clean any dirt leaves etc around the rail/injector area first.
Make sure the car is off and has cooled down.
Unplug the injectors
Unsrew the black cap on the fuel rail.
Use a small tool to depress the pin in the hole and release the pressure to the rail. (Gas will come out)
You likely will not need to decouple the rails from the car so just leave it attached to the supply line.
Remove all 4 bolts that hold the rail down to the manifold.
Grab on both sides and pull up.
You may or may not have injectors come with the rail. That's okay just do not get dirt in them.
To go back on just do everything in reverse. The orings may require some grease to slide back in.
***** DO NOT start the car before you check for leaks. Power the car on so the fuel pump comes up. You can use the schrader valve pin depress method to expell any air for the inspection. You are just making sure that you do not have a gasoline leak before actually starting the car.
The following users liked this post:
BROCKYJACK (11-01-2016)
#3
Le Mans Master
It's that easy!
The following users liked this post:
BROCKYJACK (11-01-2016)
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
It is very simple.
Clean any dirt leaves etc around the rail/injector area first.
Make sure the car is off and has cooled down.
Unplug the injectors
Unsrew the black cap on the fuel rail.
Use a small tool to depress the pin in the hole and release the pressure to the rail. (Gas will come out)
You likely will not need to decouple the rails from the car so just leave it attached to the supply line.
Remove all 4 bolts that hold the rail down to the manifold.
Grab on both sides and pull up.
You may or may not have injectors come with the rail. That's okay just do not get dirt in them.
To go back on just do everything in reverse. The orings may require some grease to slide back in.
***** DO NOT start the car before you check for leaks. Power the car on so the fuel pump comes up. You can use the schrader valve pin depress method to expell any air for the inspection. You are just making sure that you do not have a gasoline leak before actually starting the car.
Clean any dirt leaves etc around the rail/injector area first.
Make sure the car is off and has cooled down.
Unplug the injectors
Unsrew the black cap on the fuel rail.
Use a small tool to depress the pin in the hole and release the pressure to the rail. (Gas will come out)
You likely will not need to decouple the rails from the car so just leave it attached to the supply line.
Remove all 4 bolts that hold the rail down to the manifold.
Grab on both sides and pull up.
You may or may not have injectors come with the rail. That's okay just do not get dirt in them.
To go back on just do everything in reverse. The orings may require some grease to slide back in.
***** DO NOT start the car before you check for leaks. Power the car on so the fuel pump comes up. You can use the schrader valve pin depress method to expell any air for the inspection. You are just making sure that you do not have a gasoline leak before actually starting the car.
#6
Tech Contributor
The fuel rail covers are held by two push clips and clip to the rail itself in two spots. Just remove the oil cap and pull up on the passenger side from the exhaust manifold side, they'll pop off the posts and pull them back from the fuel rail and you'll see how they attach.
You do not need to remove the fuel line and I recommend that you do not as spilling fuel is always dangerous. Also, you don't want to remove the fuel injectors from the intake any more often than you have to as dirt/sand always gathers around them and you don't want to run the risk that falling into your engine or jamming up the simple o-ring seal the injectors have.
The split in the cover is to allow it to flex and slip over the fuel line. I've found, over the years with my painted covers, that if I unclip the cover, then pull up on the front half of the split, push down on the back half, and rotate the cover 45 degrees i can get the cover off the fuel line by pushing it toward the back of the car.
My covers were painted in 2006 and still look great and I've had them off scores of times. Of course, mine are painted with Rustoleum plastic paint. If yours have murals or fancy painting, you might want to remove the fuel line (again, be careful to catch all the pressurized fuel coming out of the schrader valve, and it's tricky to use the fuel rail clip tools until you figure them out).
You do not need to remove the fuel line and I recommend that you do not as spilling fuel is always dangerous. Also, you don't want to remove the fuel injectors from the intake any more often than you have to as dirt/sand always gathers around them and you don't want to run the risk that falling into your engine or jamming up the simple o-ring seal the injectors have.
The split in the cover is to allow it to flex and slip over the fuel line. I've found, over the years with my painted covers, that if I unclip the cover, then pull up on the front half of the split, push down on the back half, and rotate the cover 45 degrees i can get the cover off the fuel line by pushing it toward the back of the car.
My covers were painted in 2006 and still look great and I've had them off scores of times. Of course, mine are painted with Rustoleum plastic paint. If yours have murals or fancy painting, you might want to remove the fuel line (again, be careful to catch all the pressurized fuel coming out of the schrader valve, and it's tricky to use the fuel rail clip tools until you figure them out).
Last edited by Joe_G; 11-03-2016 at 04:13 PM.
The following users liked this post:
BROCKYJACK (11-03-2016)
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The fuel rail covers are held by two push clips and clip to the rail itself in two spots. Just remove the oil cap and pull up on the passenger side from the exhaust manifold side, they'll pop off the posts and pull them back from the fuel rail and you'll see how they attach.
You do not need to remove the fuel line and I recommend that you do not as spilling fuel is always dangerous. Also, you don't want to remove the fuel injectors from the intake any more often than you have to as dirt/sand always gathers around them and you don't want to run the risk that falling into your engine or jamming up the simple o-ring seal the injectors have.
The split in the cover is to allow it to flex and slip over the fuel line. I've found, over the years with my painted covers, that if I unclip the cover, then pull up on the front half of the split, push down on the back half, and rotate the cover 45 degrees i can get the cover off the fuel line by pushing it toward the back of the car.
My covers were painted in 2006 and still look great and I've had them off scores of times. Of course, mine are painted with Rustoleum plastic paint. If yours have murals or fancy painting, you might want to remove the fuel line (again, be careful to catch all the pressurized fuel coming out of the schrader valve, and it's tricky to use the fuel rail clip tools until you figure them out).
You do not need to remove the fuel line and I recommend that you do not as spilling fuel is always dangerous. Also, you don't want to remove the fuel injectors from the intake any more often than you have to as dirt/sand always gathers around them and you don't want to run the risk that falling into your engine or jamming up the simple o-ring seal the injectors have.
The split in the cover is to allow it to flex and slip over the fuel line. I've found, over the years with my painted covers, that if I unclip the cover, then pull up on the front half of the split, push down on the back half, and rotate the cover 45 degrees i can get the cover off the fuel line by pushing it toward the back of the car.
My covers were painted in 2006 and still look great and I've had them off scores of times. Of course, mine are painted with Rustoleum plastic paint. If yours have murals or fancy painting, you might want to remove the fuel line (again, be careful to catch all the pressurized fuel coming out of the schrader valve, and it's tricky to use the fuel rail clip tools until you figure them out).
#8
Tech Contributor
Oh I thought you said fuel rail covers.
My car doesn't have one of those fancy intake covers!
Actually the fast intake is very loud, I could use one.
Be careful to avoid getting dirt in the intake.
My car doesn't have one of those fancy intake covers!
Actually the fast intake is very loud, I could use one.
Be careful to avoid getting dirt in the intake.
Last edited by Joe_G; 11-03-2016 at 09:02 PM.
The following users liked this post:
BROCKYJACK (11-03-2016)