Vital Velocity

Working on my Girlfriends 11 Grand Sport that she inherited. It was throwing the service active handling message and would randomly pulsate the brakes. Narrowed it down to the steering wheel position sensor and got under the dash to take a peak.



At first I was so focused on the sensor being the problem that it took me a few minute to realize that the shaft is not in its proper place and that it needed to come towards the driver a good amount. It slides easily and i can get that bearing right up against where I believe it needs to go in but i am struggling getting it that extra inch or so to pop into place so that i can put the SWPS retainer on. Is there any tricks?

As a note; the car recently had a small cam put in it and I would assume that is when it got pulled out of wack

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Vital Velocity

If you click the picture it should direct you to the video or you can click the direct link

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Vita...dk9sg.mp4.html

ccryder

I think your assumptions are correct, this definitely happened during the cam install, I.E.: steering rack was dropped, or pushed to one side to make room for cam install, but with the steering shaft still connected to the rack....rookie mistake. Check the "rubber boot" on the engine bay/firewall as well, likely pulled out as well, but can be pushed back into place. However, to fix this issue, you are going to have to pull the steering column out, to get the steering shaft bearing back into place and seated properly, so you can get the SWPS back in the proper place too... and with the locking SWPS retainer/cover back on correctly...right now it's just spinning around on the column, causing your AHC codes. If the car has tilt/telescopic stop using it asap till this gets fixed. Put in a new SWPS as well to ensure you don't have to pull the column out again later & to ensure no more AHC codes...since the SWPS has been spinning/banging around on the column.
Now ask me how I know all of this....
Sorry, no easier way to fix this without pulling the column out.

Vital Velocity

Vital Velocity

Alright....I removed the column and got the shaft bearing seated again. I put the new sensor in however I still have the service active handling and can not get into competition mode.

Reading the manual it referenced a pin to remove once installed however being that mine is a 2011, i do not have the pin (Part number 25858802) rather i just have raised "key" on the inside (part that slides onto the shaft) of the sensor that aligns with a female key location on the shaft.

Does the sensor need to be calibrated and if so, how? I am assuming (hoping) it simply needs to be set to the right location for reference to the BCM. Is there any way to test the sensor with a voltmeter?

The sensor can physically only go on in one set place because of the key.

Frustrated.

Vital Velocity

Code it is is showing as present is C0253- Centering Error. The Service Active Handling (assuming from this code) comes on immediately after starting the car before it is even moving. I drove it for about 10 minutes and it did not go away

stroked383z28

You can check the wiring at the steering wheel position sensor connector with a multimeter. You should have a 5V reference wire, sensor ground wire, and then two signal return wires (sensor 1 and sensor 2). One of the signal return wires should read somewhere in the 2-4V range and vary as you turn the wheel. The other signal return should read somewhere in the 0.5V range and vary as you turn the wheel. I don't have a wiring diagram so I can't say which color wire is which but should be easy to figure out.

MidOhioZ06

It has been a few months, but have you figured this out Vital? I have seen similar issues without resolution.. Thank you.

Ahrmike

Ive done this fix three times on my car...

The bearing housing is made of plastic and weak as ****, allowing the bearing to pop out if the telescopic is rusty/jammed, or if the steering rack connection is pulled too much.

Anyhow, Dropping the steering rack to reseat the bearing should take roughly an hour or two.

Some people have had luck tapping the bearing in from below without having to remove the rack.

remove the dash trim around the lower portion of the steering column and the kick panel above the pedals. the dash bezel base has to pop out so you can remove it. Once those are removed, theres an aluminum hoop thing that is bolted on with 4 bolts, remove that too.

To remove the telescopic column, secure the wheel to the column so it cant spin (to prevent clock reel issues), theres a single bolt that attaches the column to the rack, very clsoe to your pedals. You have to remove the telescopic motor (2x 4mm 12 points, iirc) but you dont have to remove the flex shaft. Remove two clips (airbag and large harness, the large harness uses a lever to disconnect/connect). remove 4 bolts, and youre in.

Ahrmike

Oh, also you have to remove the steering sensor - remember the orientation so you won't have to go to a dealership to reset zero. Both the steering column and the sensor will only go on ONE way so at worst, you will be 360 degrees off

Dcasole

Not to hijack the thread but I am converting my tilt column to a tilt and telescopic and I am worried about installation because of this sensor , I am not sure which way is correct right now as the steering shaft was turned I am sure ( no clock spring to damage but .. )

So when you say it can only go in one way do you mean if I put in wrong and get a code , just undo the steering shaft bolt and spin it 180 degrees and reinstall ?

Is there a measurement ( Ohms , Voltage ) that I can read before installation to make sure its the right direction?

Thanks
Dave

MidOhioZ06

The inside of the sensor that surrounds the steering shaft can spin infinitely... I am having this issue now, not knowing where 'zero' is, sensor worked fine when I unplugged it, but i didn't keep it from spinning, now I don't know which way to spin it back to 'right' it does seem there should be an electronic way to diagnose this, again on the 2010+ sensor, that i haven't found referenced in the up to 2009 Service manual..

Dcasole

i am sure a GM Tech II can reset this , I am looking for tge same answer now ...

Dave

MidOhioZ06

and likely cost more than the $55 sensor itself.

Dcasole

I am lucky ... i own a knock off TECH II just for crap like this as I got tired of paying the dealer the hourly price every time I need one , reset trans module, trouble shooting a random misfire ..etc at

At 100 @ hour this thing paid for itself plus it does more than the standard OBD reader

..and i know there is a setting to set steering wheel position sensor to zero .... just need to look thru the menus

So looking at the sensor on my bench it only can go on the shaft two ways , say at zero degrees and 180 degrees , and the case locks in place so if one direction is wrong then just spin it 180 degrees and reinstall ... it does not matter if it spins around , its either one way or the other ..

I am going to try and hook mine up and start the car without it being all put together to see if it sets a code

Dave

MidOhioZ06

Friend of a friend reset it at a dealership w/ a Tech II... PERFECT! I may just have to buy a grey market one for future issues. One more item off the checklist.

Dcasole

awesome good to know , thanks for posting

Dave

250mph

I realize this is an old post, but I'm having a similar issue and would like to watch the mentioned video. The link appears to be invalid or at least I didn't have access to it.

Can anyone post the video link?

Thanks

Wayne Blaine

Small correction..... the telescoping motor doesn’t have to be removed to get the column out. Just shift the column around a bit as you pull it.